sorry for the cell phone quality pictures.
As the title says this is the first dagger I've done and it was quite a learning experience. I am relatively new to knife making as a hobby and it shows in my work, but each knife gets better than the last so I'm keeping at it. The blade is about 7 inches long and the handle is approximately 6 including the striking end of the tang. The handle is made out of some black walnut I had laying around secured with epoxy and brass pins. I used both forging and stock removal to make this knife. (sorry no pictures of the process) First thing I did was hammer down the teeth, then I reduced the width of the rasp to that of the width of the ricasso. I then forged the basic shape of the point being careful to keep everything symmetrical. From then I ground the shape of the handle and cut off most of the rasps tang, leaving enough for the striking pommel.
I ground the bevels freehand and using the markings left by the file teeth as a sort of depth gauge I think it turned out alright. The blade was sanded up to 1500 grit, I think I'm going to put a finer polish on it but for now that is the highest grit sandpaper I have. I left the pommel unsanded because I like the forged look it has. The handle Is made of a black walnut log I had, destined to be firewood.
Let me know what you think, I am always open to advice
As the title says this is the first dagger I've done and it was quite a learning experience. I am relatively new to knife making as a hobby and it shows in my work, but each knife gets better than the last so I'm keeping at it. The blade is about 7 inches long and the handle is approximately 6 including the striking end of the tang. The handle is made out of some black walnut I had laying around secured with epoxy and brass pins. I used both forging and stock removal to make this knife. (sorry no pictures of the process) First thing I did was hammer down the teeth, then I reduced the width of the rasp to that of the width of the ricasso. I then forged the basic shape of the point being careful to keep everything symmetrical. From then I ground the shape of the handle and cut off most of the rasps tang, leaving enough for the striking pommel.
I ground the bevels freehand and using the markings left by the file teeth as a sort of depth gauge I think it turned out alright. The blade was sanded up to 1500 grit, I think I'm going to put a finer polish on it but for now that is the highest grit sandpaper I have. I left the pommel unsanded because I like the forged look it has. The handle Is made of a black walnut log I had, destined to be firewood.
Let me know what you think, I am always open to advice