My first "functional" katana

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dbreeze225

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Sep 12, 2014
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so i just got my first functional katana from "ronin katanas" i definitely like it for the price i dont think you can beat it....the one thing that i found is where the habaki (blade colar) meets the blade the edge is not sharp .....the rest of the blade edge is very sharp it's just the first inch that is next to the blade colar that is dull (there is a edge there it just not any where near as sharp as the rest of the blade like i said only the first inch that is dull) since this is my first functional i am curious is it supposed to be that way or just a flaw in the design...for the price i am surprised it is as good as it is so this wouldnt really bother me that much and if using the sword i dont think you should be hitting anything that far up on the blade anyway so i guess there is no practical difference....also i did put up a post about what oil to use and got a answer but any one have a tips on how to apply the oil? some places say to put a few drops on the blade and spread it out but its hard to get a even coat that way i tried putting the oil onto a folded up paper towel and then rubbing on but i dont know if i got enough on the blade that way. i was also looking online at sword maintenance kits...some have a ball with some kind of powder inside (sorry i dont know the name) is that necessary what does it do? like i said this is my first functional katana so i wanna take care of it the right way thanks for any help
-dave
 
the one thing that i found is where the habaki (blade colar) meets the blade the edge is not sharp /QUOTE]

That is normal. The area you refer to is the hamachi and the unsharpened section is referred to as being "ububa". This is seen on most all swords which are in their original polish. Over the years and several polishes this area is slowly ground down and eventually disappears, which is why it is not seen on very old swords.
Here is a link to a Gendaito made by Kanenobu in 1941, scroll down and you see this same ububa area: http://yakiba.com/Kat_Kanenobu.htm


For a modern reproduction sword such as yours one of those cleaning kits will be sufficient. The powder ball in those are generally some type of talcum powder, where the real ones are made from the remnants of polishing stones and the uchiko ball alone cost at least twice what those cheap kits cost. The oil in the kits are mineral oil and some have a drop of clove oil and some do not.

Truth is, you don't really need any of that stuff. Real uchiko powder can actually be detrimental to a newly polished sword, as it can cause some streaking or hazing to the surface over time(remember, it is made from polishing stones, ie; abrasive). Some of this is due to improper use of uchiko, people tend to think that they should scrub of the old oil and apply way to much force. When removing the oil via the powder, only enough pressure is applied to just push the powder along the surface.

Any light oil will be fine for your sword ie; sewing machine oil, 3-in-1 oil, mineral oil. Make your own clove oil by adding a small amount of clove oil to a bottle of mineral oil and you will have a lifetime supply for a fraction of the cost.

For your sword, you need to do nothing more than occasionally clean and re-oil it. Clean it with denatured alcohol on a soft cloth or paper towel, then lightly re-oil it with any of the above.

Here is a link to a beginners page. There are multiple topics such as terminology, nomenclature, sword etiquette, etc..
Scroll down to "care and maintenance" for the traditional way to use your cleaning kit.
http://yakiba.com/beginner_page.htm


I sent the following to your other post in the event you just have to have some pre-made oil. Fred has cleaning kits as well.
Here is a link where you can purchase the correct oil, Choji (clove) Oil:

http://www.japanese-swords.com/pages/x5.htm
Click to expand...
 
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nice southern comfort thanks very informative...couple quick questions..the "uchiko" ball and powder what is it actually for..do you put it on the sword before you clean it to help soak up the oil (just guessing not sure if i am right) and if it is made from crushed remnants of stones couldn't i make my own as i use my stone i assume it would have to be a very fine stone. i have a very very fine stone my father gave me i think it is a "Belgium blue" stone. also you say to use a light or thin oil but also say mineral oil is ok to me mineral oil is kinda thick ( i am talking about the kind you can find in a pharmacy or super market that is actually made as a laxative i think there are lighter versions of mineral oil but i can find any is the "laxative" kind ok or too thick? any way thanks alot
-dave
 
Light mineral oil is what you want, not the laxative kind. Actually any light, non-acidic, machine oil will do just fine. The uchiko is applied by tapping the ball on the blade as part of the cleaning process.It adsorbs old oil and dirt which then is wiped off (I use a folded piece of toilet paper).
Rich
Nihonto Message Board (all things related to Japanese swords)
http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/index.php
 
Yes, light mineral oil is what you want. The laxative type may give your sword the runs :-)

Again, light machine oil will work fine.
If you insist on the powder ball and choji oil and can't find light mineral oil, buy them from the link I sent you.
Or buy one of the kits, as it has a hammer and punch as well as powder and oil.
http://www.japanese-swords.com/pages/maint.htm

DO NOT make your own "uchiko" ! You will surely regret it.

Slow down and read the links I sent you , it will explain how to use the powder: http://yakiba.com/care_maintenance.htm

Rich has explained it above as well.
 
can any one tell me where to get this "light" mineral oil all i can find is the laxitive kind and mineral spirts i think that is a whole nother thing tho
 
Patience grasshopper, it is not hard to find.

E-Bay, type in "light mineral oil".

Google "light mineral oil"
 
Good advice from Dr. Stein(of course) and Southern Comfort.....that said, I have found most of the Chitana to be "dirty", in that much of the oxide residue from etching is left intact....and it looks "mungy",. so I use a bit of Flitz or, preferred, Noxon to gradually remove these oxides....be aware that this is more than somewhat abrasive and if used aggressively will render the hamon virtually invisible...you will polish the distinctions into a state that is difficult to see......but initially just taking a pass or two with a soft paper towel or facial tissue occasionally and oiling will yield pleasing results after a few months.

My .02

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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