Previously, the only education I had with regards to sharpening was to "try to slice a thin layer off the stone." I also tried a lot of different equipment like "V" ceramic rods, Accusharp pull through sharpener, and an electric Chef's Choice Sharpener 100. My results were hit and miss with mostly misses.
My last previous buy was a full set of Lansky guided sharpening system. I thought this was it for me but I quickly discovered the cons: the clamp kept loosening up and non-flat knife blades did not help. The angles weren't that controlled and I realized the short radius did not make for a consistent angle throughout the knife edge. Something had to be better.
Since my interest in knives was revived, I decided I needed to learn more. I asked people here about equipment previously. And I this sharpening section very informative and helpful with its stickies and the various postings of the experts here. And I also bought several books on the subject.
I am pleased with the results of my first sharpening using the knowledge I gained. I wasn't striving for it but I was surprised by what can pass as a mirror finish. And it can slice cut and push cut pretty thin paper. Although I did practice on some cheap knives prior to tackling this ZT560, I still had a lot of learning as I went.
I was pleasantly surprised by the mirror finish I ended up with. The mirror finish wasn't my objective; I just wanted the knife sharp.
Most of the mistakes I made with the Lansky were pretty much covered. I suppose I can still work on the area around the choil in the future.
Below are the tools I used. I bought other equipment like Starrett protractors, additional loupes, and such but, in the end, I didn't need them. Apart from what is pictured, I used a caliper and an inside micrometer to get the dimensions of the knife blade. The stones are 8" DMT Dia-Sharp in the full range of Double Extra Coarse, Extra Coarse, and Coarse in front with Fine, Extra Fine, Medium Extra Fine, and Double Extra Fine in the back. I got the basswood from a local hobby shop. The Loupe is 40x which worked very well for me. And I bought the water proof angle blocks ready made from Fred.Rowe.
While I did practice with some cheap steak knives prior, I was still learning as I went along. I used the angle blocks to set muscle memory and I selected the 15 degree. I'm thinking with the thickness of the blade, I might be able to go 13 or even 12 degrees with its brother. I went through all the grits using the sharpie method prior to each grit and the 40x loupe to let me know when I'm done. The most work was with the extra coarse in profiling the bevel from the factory 20 to my target 15 degrees. But after that, going through the grit progression was relatively easy. What worked best for me were strokes perpendicular to the edge starting from the tip and working my way down the curve. When I got near the transition from the curved edge to the straight edge, I went to the choil area as I had to do that at an angle to position the thumb stud out of the way. Then I went back to the straight edge perpendicularly and, lastly, I did the transition area. I found I got better results switching hands and positioning the edge away from me instead of holding the knife in just the same hand and flipping the blade over.
I used back and forth strokes and finished with edge trailing strokes with each grit. For stropping, I used basswood with .5 micron Diaspray and both sides of the leather strop with the smooth side last. I have to note though that some ad hoc stropping on paper and cardboard afterwards eventually got rid of all residual burrs. I think that this kind of ad hoc stropping will also help maintain and prolong the life of the edge. The knife can push cut and slice cut with ease. It does well with cutting steak also.
If you read this far, I thank you for doing so. I am sharing because I am stoked at finally getting a knife sharp based on knowledge instead of stabbing in the dark; also, someone might find something useful in what I wrote.
My last previous buy was a full set of Lansky guided sharpening system. I thought this was it for me but I quickly discovered the cons: the clamp kept loosening up and non-flat knife blades did not help. The angles weren't that controlled and I realized the short radius did not make for a consistent angle throughout the knife edge. Something had to be better.
Since my interest in knives was revived, I decided I needed to learn more. I asked people here about equipment previously. And I this sharpening section very informative and helpful with its stickies and the various postings of the experts here. And I also bought several books on the subject.
I am pleased with the results of my first sharpening using the knowledge I gained. I wasn't striving for it but I was surprised by what can pass as a mirror finish. And it can slice cut and push cut pretty thin paper. Although I did practice on some cheap knives prior to tackling this ZT560, I still had a lot of learning as I went.
I was pleasantly surprised by the mirror finish I ended up with. The mirror finish wasn't my objective; I just wanted the knife sharp.
Most of the mistakes I made with the Lansky were pretty much covered. I suppose I can still work on the area around the choil in the future.
Below are the tools I used. I bought other equipment like Starrett protractors, additional loupes, and such but, in the end, I didn't need them. Apart from what is pictured, I used a caliper and an inside micrometer to get the dimensions of the knife blade. The stones are 8" DMT Dia-Sharp in the full range of Double Extra Coarse, Extra Coarse, and Coarse in front with Fine, Extra Fine, Medium Extra Fine, and Double Extra Fine in the back. I got the basswood from a local hobby shop. The Loupe is 40x which worked very well for me. And I bought the water proof angle blocks ready made from Fred.Rowe.
While I did practice with some cheap steak knives prior, I was still learning as I went along. I used the angle blocks to set muscle memory and I selected the 15 degree. I'm thinking with the thickness of the blade, I might be able to go 13 or even 12 degrees with its brother. I went through all the grits using the sharpie method prior to each grit and the 40x loupe to let me know when I'm done. The most work was with the extra coarse in profiling the bevel from the factory 20 to my target 15 degrees. But after that, going through the grit progression was relatively easy. What worked best for me were strokes perpendicular to the edge starting from the tip and working my way down the curve. When I got near the transition from the curved edge to the straight edge, I went to the choil area as I had to do that at an angle to position the thumb stud out of the way. Then I went back to the straight edge perpendicularly and, lastly, I did the transition area. I found I got better results switching hands and positioning the edge away from me instead of holding the knife in just the same hand and flipping the blade over.
I used back and forth strokes and finished with edge trailing strokes with each grit. For stropping, I used basswood with .5 micron Diaspray and both sides of the leather strop with the smooth side last. I have to note though that some ad hoc stropping on paper and cardboard afterwards eventually got rid of all residual burrs. I think that this kind of ad hoc stropping will also help maintain and prolong the life of the edge. The knife can push cut and slice cut with ease. It does well with cutting steak also.
If you read this far, I thank you for doing so. I am sharing because I am stoked at finally getting a knife sharp based on knowledge instead of stabbing in the dark; also, someone might find something useful in what I wrote.