My first knife completed

U

Utican

Joined
Sep 18, 2010
Messages
215
Well here it is and off course I have a few questions. It turned out good and while still looking for 1/8 stock of 1075 or 1085 I was wondering why did it come out after temper with a super layer soft material on surface? I was able to sand this out easily with a flap wheel.Yes steel (1095) was not optimal for heating in coal fire and quenching in motor oil , but I just picked 1095 cause it was readily available everywhere. I tempered it for an hour at 400 and although pretty darn hard it holds edge incredibly and can be super sharp. I was wondering will I be able to achieve same results with 1084 or even better with 1074 cause I can get this at a local supplier.




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Here Is second one could not wait for response, also first knifes handle is black walnut, I like it, its nice to work with, was wondering if cherry wood makes good handle. I can get these free from people I meet at work , I'm in construction business, or should I break down and buy some handle wood.



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Looking good, for now I'd stick with the free wood, black walnut and cherry make good handles if sealed. Tung oil or Danish oil work well, I've even used polyurithan and basicly let the finished knife soak for a while.

How did you attach the handle to the first one? If it's a full tange I'd realy recomend rivit or corby bolts or piened pins to prevent epoxy from breaking and the handle from pulling up.

Also I'd recomend at least 2 tempers, preferably 3. The soft surface your talking about was probably decarb, eigther already on the steel or from heat treat.

Looks like a great start, certanly better than the first dozen or so of mine! An I know what you mean about "couldn't wait".
 
your soft layer is decarb. you should be able to able to do better blades in 1084 because you are able to get a more appropriate heat treat

-Page
 
Ty guys, I attached wood via 2 ton epoxy 24 hour cure, I did drill large holes in the tang and yeah it is full tang, the next one I plan on using 3/32 braising rod for pins, already drilled holes for it as well as larger ones for epoxy bond. I'm trying to use materials that are at hand hence cherry because it's plenty full as scrap with local cabinet makers, and walnut at local stairway fabricator they use it for handrail. Sunshadow I sent you e mail concerning that 1084
 
Rgr on 2-3 tempers, can I do additional one or two on the second knife that I tempered already?
 
Additional tempering cycles can be done at any time as long as there is nothing mounted on the blade that will be harmed by the temperature.
The layer of decarb you had to sand off is pretty typical when heat treating oil quenching steels. It does not necessarily indicate that you did anyting wrong but as you have found out, it is not your friend. You should plan to have to remove a little material after heat treating when using an oil-quenching steel.
Those look pretty respectable for #1 and#2.
 
Ok that answers the decarb layer question,Ill definitely do the second temper on my second blade cause I did not do any handle work for it. Now what is the easiest way to make hilt thingy, I want to make a Puukko knife for my self but need instructions on how to make that brass finger guard, that knife just don't look right without it. Also I want to make it full tang not rat tail so to speak, that stuck on handle just does not look sturdy enough for me, or is this something I should try?
 
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