My first knife mod, a Kershaw skyline fixed blade.

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Aug 4, 2012
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I believe this to be the right place for this, it is my first post.

Other than sharpening this is my first knife mod of any kind. This is my Christmas gift to my father. I had plans to make custom scales for a few folders i pickup in trade, but they were used and i really didn't like to give a used knife for Christmas. so I bought 3 kershaw skylines fixed blades for $18.99 a piece the day after Thanksgiving sale. i figured these would be a better start to my first endeavor in this. though i have only had time to make one. the others will have to be birthday gifts.

I did some research on glues and screws and every thing in between for making custom handles. i figured on these, i would just abandon the screw and epoxy the handles on with some mosaic pins. well to my surprise the tang of the knife had been hollowed out quit a bit to make it better balanced. and with so little to epoxy i figured i couldn't rely on it hold well by its self, so went the search for screws and a sleeves to fit the holes. end up not finding any thing to my liking, i had to drill the holes a little bigger to make room for the only threaded sleeves i could find locally. what a pain it is to drill 55-57 RC steel.

when handing the knife with out the scales its stone wash finish seemed very slick. so i added some jimping on the spine. i did it with a round tile blade. it is a carbide blade that fits a hack saw frame. i got mine from sears for $5 or $6. I made little pre cuts with my dremel and cutting wheels so the tile saw had a guide on where to start.

as for the handles i searched and searched for a decent price stabilized wood with character that wasn't $50.(more than double the knife price and not worth the price if i messed up since this is my first time with this.) I found some York gum burl for $20 with some good character. http://www.fpc.wa.gov.au/content_migration/plantations/species/arid/york_gum.aspx . I really like the look of it. and i wanted the handle to encompass the handle not stop short like the factory scales.

here is a pic of the scales when i got them. they have water on them to make them shine. you can see the out line of the handle on the knife. i was trying to fit 2 on there but it wouldn't have worked.

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and here is the semi finished knife i still have to more coats of tung oil on it for it to be done. it is also next to knife the way it comes from the factory.
i also plan on putting a micro bevel of 30/40 on it as well. an new thing to me

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Thanks for looking.
 
Your dad is a lucky guy! Are you up for adoption?:D That is some great looking wood, and you did it proud. Really nice job!

Omar
:rolleyes:
 
Very nice work!

I'm thinking of doing the same as the stock scales make for a very slim and not all that comfortable knife in prolonged use.
 
Looks great, for your next one(s) try "corby" bolts

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They screw together, but once finished they end up with a flat surface and look just like straight pins! (Just a bit of advice, the holes for them need to be countersunk)
 
I was under the impression that those r decorative. Not meant to hold any true pressure.
 
I was under the impression that those r decorative. Not meant to hold any true pressure.

The corby bolts? They are far from decorative. Once finished they look like just a regular pin. The only reason to use them over pins is the fact that they really hold the material together. Though I really only use them on my fillet knives. Most knives and even the fillet knives really don't get enough force exerting outwards to pull the scale off with pins/epoxy. And you will want to use epoxy with these. They are not removable once finished and if there is no epoxy moisture will build up underneath and certain natural wood oils can corrode metals.
 
corby01.jpg


As you can see, since the screw is counter sunk - it leaves a little shelf for the bolt to grab onto and apply pressure to as its screwed together. They are tough fasteners. Generally speaking epoxy is strong enough by itself, but the pins will prevent the handles from sheering off.
 
Thanks guys thats good to know. From now on I will use corby screws. It would look a lot better with out the allen holes in the middle.
 
I've recently picked up a fixed Skyline and was considering replacing the grip such as you have. My only real concern was how to remove the stock screw/rivets. How did you remove yours?
 
Thank you for your quick reply. Are there any other concerns I should be aware of? This is the first project like this I'm attempting.
 
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