My first knife (well, first handle anyway)

Mundele · Dec 29, 2001

Hey Guys...

I finished my first knife a few weeks ago and finally got it scanned in. I thought you might like to see a few pictures. I'd like to hear your comments.

I bought a blade from www.ragweedforge.com and made the handle from a piece of walnut. I think it turned out really well. The blade angles up slightly (I couldnt see that while I was shaping the handle because the blade was taped up). There's also some epoxy residue on the blade that is only barely visible when you look at the knife, but looks horrible on the scanned pic. Oh well. I wish I had spent a little more money and bought a better blade.

Here's a picture from the top

One from the bottom

And another from the side

You can't tell from the pics that the butt of the knife is rounded off. So what do you guys think?

--Matt

Ripper · Dec 29, 2001

Matt,
Looks like you've captured some Scandinavian style in that handle. Good job, some brass or horn in front of the handle would look sweet on the next one.
Regards, Greg

peter nap · Dec 29, 2001

Like Ripper said. It is also a good style to start with. It's also a good style once you start grinding your own blades. (You will, your hooked) Go to this site and look at the pictures for ideas.http://www.brisa.fi/start3.html
You may want to email Dennis there. Really nice fellow and good prices. I buy some raindeer horn and other things. He also has a good selection of good blades at good prices.

Back to your knife. It is good for what it is. It needs some small things to make it look finished. I still have trouble with the details but they will come with experience. Grip looks good and usable. It really looks better than my first one and I still use it. On your next one, don't try to be fancy, just improve a little on this one. I do that on every knife I build. (Sometimes I take a step backwards).

The blade is angled upward some but I've done much worse. Fitting blades is difficult and I'm amazed you did as well as you did on the first one, with no help. Nothing other than doing it will give you the experience you need. No one was born a good knife maker although some are born a little more arty than others. That's why I try to make good usable knives. (I have no taste)

Overall I'd give it a B+. Time to start number 2.

PS. the time you spent shaping the handle shows. WEAR A MASK WHEN WORKING WITH ROSEWOOD OR YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO WORK WITH IT LONG!

tmickley · Dec 29, 2001

You did a fine job on that one. Congratulations. I'd bet the handle feels good in the hand.
On the epoxy leaks, I've got a couple just like that I can show you. I finally started using blue masking tape (the easy peel off stuff) on the blade and then (several)Q-tips dunked in Acetone to clean up the edges after glue up and it seemed to help. What you miss with the acetone scrapes off with the masking tape.
Tracy

Mundele · Dec 30, 2001

Thanks for all of the comments. I was going for a Finnish style handle. Glad someone else recognized the style I was after.

I have been looking at that webpage (www.brisa.fi) and considering placing an order for some blades, horn, and some birch. Was it much of a hassle to order since they're in Finland? Was shipping reasonable? How about the currency conversion stuff?

Thanks again...

--Matt

peter nap · Dec 30, 2001

No hassel at all. Let Dennis handle it. As long as it will go in a FED EX envelope you have no problems. Prices are good. He has a conversion chart to give prices in real money. I think you will like dealing with him. I can't say about his blades but the accessories I buy are top notch so I expect the blades are too. I expect the blades are too. I copied a few of his knives (or tried to). He has one made from a tusk I want to build something awful but haven't found a tusk large enough yet.

Eric M Ericson · Dec 30, 2001

I have the same problem with epoxy, I use a knife to chip it off. I shape the top of the handle at the same time. if it dosn't pop off the blade, use a wood chisle or rasor blade held against the blade to remove it. It looks alot beter than my first try.
don't worry, the more you do the better they look

Eric

ddavelarsen · Dec 30, 2001

Hi Matt, nice job!

The only thing I'd have done different is make my own blade. There's a guy here lately who's been filing D2 and making some very fine knives. If he can do that so can you. If you are going to make knives, go ahead and make you own. You'll be amazed how straightforward filing or grinding your own designs really is, and they'll be yours. Trust me: Just do it. You have the taste and the eye -- do it!

Go buy some barstock.

Dave

Mundele · Dec 30, 2001

Okay, dumb question...

The barstock is unhardened, right? How do you go about grinding it? Do you have to buy a big piece of equipment? How would I harden it after the blade is shaped. One problem is that I live in a townhouse and have no work area besides the back porch. I guess that will slow down my progress during winter. I dont mind whittling and getting wood shavings all over the floor but I imagine metal filings might be a bit harder to clean up.

Is there a "blade grinding" faq somewhere?

I would like to grind a blade sometime though... Sounds like fun...

--Matt

Don Cowles · Dec 31, 2001

I think I can help you to avoid the epoxy cleanup in the future- after you have finished the leading edge of the scales, coat them with a layer of Johnson's paste floor wax. Do the same thing with the ricasso, making sure you stay ahead of the glue line. Glue on the scales, and after the epoxy is completely set, any squeeze-out will just peel off easily. Good luck!

peter nap · Dec 31, 2001

Matt. Don't let the lack of equipment stop you. Making your own blades is the most fun part of knife making. If you look back a few weeks at my posts. (Just do a search for peter nap) the ones titled Scottish dirk and new knife, were done with files and abrasive cloth alone. (the blades were, I used woodworking equipment on the wood.) I did this because I enjoy using a file sometimes and on the smaller ones, it's just plain easier for me. Get a rough cut bastard file and a fine tooth file and a triangular file. Go to the auto supply store and get an assortment of abrasive cloth. Your in business. For smaller blades you can at least edge treat with a propane torch although I prefer to use two or three torches for more even heating. Buy a can of Crisco or beg some grease from the local resturant and your in business. I would start using 5160 steel. If you want to scrounge you can go to the junk yard and get springs from older american cars. (That's generally 5160.) There is a ton of information here if you go back and look at older posts.

Keep us up on how your doing!

OH...on the scrounging for steel...don't forget the saw sharpening places. Industrial hacksaw blades are great as are hardnosed chainsaw bars.

Mundele · Dec 31, 2001

Good idea (the floorwax thing). It won't stain my handle will it? On both of the blades I've epoxied so far, either the epoxy has shrunk slightly or I left a little void right beside the blade. I need to fill it but was afraid I'd get it all over the place. I'll have to try your little trick...

--Matt