- Joined
- Apr 20, 2002
- Messages
- 56
Here is a pic of my first knife, made with the help of Bruce Bump. Also, are the steps made to complete this knife.
Started with a piece of 5160 hi carbon steel 1/4" x 2" x 8" long.
Clipped off one corner.
Forged at approximately 1800-1900 degrees.
Forged the edge to form the tip and flattened the clip to form the spine.
Forged the blade longer while giving it a distal taper.
Forged the tapered tang on the hydraulic press.
Flattened, straightened and trued.
Rough ground the scale off both sides.
Thinned the ricasso to 3/16" thick.
Cut the pattern from the paper drawing and glued it to the roughed out blank.
Ground the profile by grinding down to the paper.
Drilled the holes for the handle scales and throng hole located on the paper drawing.
Ground the tapered tang.
Ground the distal taper on the blade.
Centered the edge and tip and flat ground the bevels.
Heated in Barium Chloride (Hot Salts) to just above non-magnetic and back to black 3 times to normalize.
Heated to non-magnetic and held for a couple minutes and quickly quenched in 150 degree oil.
Tempered at 395 degrees for one hour, twice.
Started with 36 grit and stopped at Norax 30.
Wet hand sanded the flats from 320 thru 1500.
Milled the brass guard slot to 3/16".
Slid the guard on and drilled two 1/16" holes for pins.
Cleaned the blank and dipped in diluted ferric acid for a few seconds to show the temper line better.
Buffed the blade.
Sanded the front face of the guard and buffed it.
JB welded the guard and slid it in place, pinned it with two 1/16" brass pins.
Cut and surfaced the scales.
Sanded the slight angle on the ends to match the guard.
Super glued one scale on and drilled its holes.
Super glued the other scale on and drilled its holes.
Counter-bored for the hidden bolt rivets.
Installed the bolts and throng hole tubing using JB weld on the throng hole tubing.
Ground off excess wood back down to the steel and started shaping the wood handle.
Ground the finger groove in the guard with the Foredom tool.
Finished sanding the handle and guard to 1500 grit.
Final buffed with scatchless pink on soft buff wheel.
Hand polished and sharpened the edge.
Sounds like quite a bit of work and it was. I have to thank Bruce Bump once again for sharing his time, tools and knowledge so freely. It really is nice to have someone help a guy out just for asking.
I think the hand forging was my most liked thing, I'd never tried it before and found I wasn't too bad at it. And so Bruce knows, I tasted WD 40 for about 3 days. Hopefully I'll be able to get my shop set up and start turning out some quality blades. I know it will be a long journey, but I think I'm willing to take that first step.

Started with a piece of 5160 hi carbon steel 1/4" x 2" x 8" long.
Clipped off one corner.
Forged at approximately 1800-1900 degrees.
Forged the edge to form the tip and flattened the clip to form the spine.
Forged the blade longer while giving it a distal taper.
Forged the tapered tang on the hydraulic press.
Flattened, straightened and trued.
Rough ground the scale off both sides.
Thinned the ricasso to 3/16" thick.
Cut the pattern from the paper drawing and glued it to the roughed out blank.
Ground the profile by grinding down to the paper.
Drilled the holes for the handle scales and throng hole located on the paper drawing.
Ground the tapered tang.
Ground the distal taper on the blade.
Centered the edge and tip and flat ground the bevels.
Heated in Barium Chloride (Hot Salts) to just above non-magnetic and back to black 3 times to normalize.
Heated to non-magnetic and held for a couple minutes and quickly quenched in 150 degree oil.
Tempered at 395 degrees for one hour, twice.
Started with 36 grit and stopped at Norax 30.
Wet hand sanded the flats from 320 thru 1500.
Milled the brass guard slot to 3/16".
Slid the guard on and drilled two 1/16" holes for pins.
Cleaned the blank and dipped in diluted ferric acid for a few seconds to show the temper line better.
Buffed the blade.
Sanded the front face of the guard and buffed it.
JB welded the guard and slid it in place, pinned it with two 1/16" brass pins.
Cut and surfaced the scales.
Sanded the slight angle on the ends to match the guard.
Super glued one scale on and drilled its holes.
Super glued the other scale on and drilled its holes.
Counter-bored for the hidden bolt rivets.
Installed the bolts and throng hole tubing using JB weld on the throng hole tubing.
Ground off excess wood back down to the steel and started shaping the wood handle.
Ground the finger groove in the guard with the Foredom tool.
Finished sanding the handle and guard to 1500 grit.
Final buffed with scatchless pink on soft buff wheel.
Hand polished and sharpened the edge.
Sounds like quite a bit of work and it was. I have to thank Bruce Bump once again for sharing his time, tools and knowledge so freely. It really is nice to have someone help a guy out just for asking.
I think the hand forging was my most liked thing, I'd never tried it before and found I wasn't too bad at it. And so Bruce knows, I tasted WD 40 for about 3 days. Hopefully I'll be able to get my shop set up and start turning out some quality blades. I know it will be a long journey, but I think I'm willing to take that first step.