I was asked to give more detailed instrctions for putting on the scales :
Pop's Knife supplies is a good source.
www.popsknifesupplies.com .He make the best step drill on the market,. He calls his step-drills "Counterbore Tools".He calls his Corby style rivets "Handle Screws".I am sure he ships to Canada.
To use Corby rivets - Tape or clamp the scales together ( they only need to be flat on the inside surfaces and rough shaped on the outside). Drill one pilot hole through the scales in one of the hole positions.. Use the step drill to make the seated hole in one side.To figure how much of the pilot hole should be left undrilled past the seat, start at about 3mm (undrilled). Slide the female bolt in the scale and put the tang on it.If there is about 3mm sticking out,that is right.If it is less,drill the hole a bit deeper until 3mm sticks out.Drill the other scale the same depth.Put the scales on with a rivet screwed finger tight and drill the other rivet hole.It will be lined up perfectly. Drill the step seats and put in the other rivet.
A tip that also comes to mind is to make the holes in the tang a good bit oversized. I drill the tang with a 3/8 (9-10mm) bit to make sure that there is plenty of clearance and adjustment room when fitting up the handle scales.Regardless of the rivet type the tang hole should never be the same size as the rivet size,or the rivet may bind (this rule applies to putting on bolsters ,too).
Now, to finish the front end of the scales before assembly on the finished blade - take them off the tang and put the scales together with the rivets in the holes and tape them together flush.Shape, sand,and polish the end. Untape and disassemble the scales and reassemble them on the completely finished blade.If all is well, tape the blade up to within 3mm of the handle with 3-M blue painters tape.Use several layers to prevent the polished blade being scratched or damaged while finishing the handle (and to prevent you from getting cut).Take the scales off again and apply a thin layer of slow cure (24 hour) epoxy to the tang (not to the scale).Apply a bit of epoxy to the shaft of the female rivets and slide them in the holes on one scale, making sure that you don't get epoxy in the threaded hole of the rivet (put the epoxy on the rivet not in the hole in the scale!). Place the scale on the tang and put the other scale on the rivets where they extend through the tang holes. Put a bit of epoxy on the shaft of male rivets and slip them in the holes,connecting with the female rivets loosely. Tighten them by hand if possible to make sure that you haven't cross threaded them. If one does not want to go in turn it backward to feel it "pop" into the mating threaded hole,then screw it in.Once all is right ,snug the rivets down with a screwdriver until just snug. Check the seam at the tang to make sure it is even and there are no gaps( Light clamping can be used ,if needed,but usually is not necessary). Wipe off the excess squeezed out epoxy at the ricasso and then wipe the end of the handle off with a paper towel dampened in acetone - to remove any excess epoxy from the polished ends (check it in an hour or two to remove any additional squeeze out).Let the assembly cure for a day or two and then shape the handle to your final shape, grinding off the excess rivet material in the process (you can saw them off flush before grinding if you want).Don't let the rivets get too hot when grinding and sanding or they may scorch the handle material around them.Polish and finish as you wish. When the handle is done,un-tape the blade,clean everything up,and give the edge its final sharpening.
Two other sources for any knife supplies are:
Texas Knife Supply -
www.texasknife.com
K&G Knife Supply -
www.knifeandgun.com
IMHO there is no fastener better for scales than a Corby style rivet.
Stacy