My first post outside the "show your work thread"

OutlawSW

OutlawSW

Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
21
Just a part time knife/sheath maker looking to improve skills. I've been reading threads and admiring a everyones work for quite some time. Tons of fantastic information on this forum and I hope to participate more often.
This is my latest work for a tactical knife I recently made. Constructive feedback is appreciated.

Thanks for looking

Storm_SheathBack.jpgStorm_Slayer3.jpg
 
I like your rendition of the snap strap. :)

Hard to tell from the pic, but if you haven't gotten one you might look into getting an edge beveler. It takes those sharp edges off and makes for a much softer appearance. A #2 or #3 seems to cover all bases. I have a #4 for some uses, but its rather severe and I wouldnt use it on sheath edges.

Your stitching looks nice and straight! So far so good and just keep practicing and polishing. :)
 
Thanks Dwayne...I do use a #2 edge beveler on all edges except on the Flesh side. But I do see where I missed the top lip of the front. Pics are not the greatest to show the sheath detail. These were taken to post on another forum to show the whole package. I will make sure get better pics of the leather work in the future.
 
Nice work. Just a suggestion, but why not consider flat lining the the entire piece front and rear with 2 oz. cowhide or similar. Attach the belt loop prior to lining and then no flesh side or stitching shows and your piece will take on an other dimension of "finish". Block cut the pieces and then line and then make the final pattern cut for some really smooth edges.

Also on unlined areas it's advisable to edge the flesh side as well.

Paul
 
I do hear what your saying about edging the flesh side, it can be a very frustrating experience with all but the sharpest bevelers. I keep a strop close at hand when edging a lot of leather, I try to strop it a bit when it starts to drag a little. But its easy to forget. :o

I agree with Paul on the lining, it adds so much to the finished product. If your worried about the overall thickness just start with a thinner leather and when its lined you will still have a nice streamlined sheath. A lot more sewing, but its worth it. Your stitching already shows a flair for making it part of the overall presentation, lining just adds another dimension.
 
Paul and Dwayne, thanks for the support and tips. I have about 15 sqft of 2oz veg-tan that I will definately put to good use. I originally purchased it to use as inlay backing (window type inlays). never even occured to me to use it on the flesh side of the sheath back. I have 2 more projects under way that are similar to this one. Although one is almost complete and too late to place the liners but I be sure to try this on the second project.
Thanks again.

Shane

outlawcustomblades.com
 
Sweet! I look forward to seeing what you come up with. :)
 
Shane, a quick addendum to my previous post. I line everything I make either with deer skin or 2 oz. cowhide, so I use only 7/8 oz leather for the body of the sheath. When lined this yields about a 9/10 oz total weight/thickness which I find perfect for nearly all sheaths. When putting in an inlay I spilt the front piece and retain the split. Cut the window, install the exotic and then contact cement the two original pieces back together. Now I have a piece of 7/8 with an inlay, and the inlay is nice and flat with no large "step" at the window border.

A sheath like you pictured would not involve additional stitching IF you use contact cement and use it correctly. Bonding the lining flesh to flesh correctly will last 'til hell freezes over if you did it correctly.

Also, I'm not selling them because I don't have any to sell, but you might consider getting my instructional DVDs. There are three of them and they are available from Chris Crawford. See the link in my sig line below. I have been told they make life easier and save a lot of mistakes.;)

Paul
 
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I like your strap design...shows some nice leather work and allows the knife handle to show itself off as well....very nice.
 
sheathmaker said:
When putting in an inlay I spilt the front piece and retain the split
Click to expand...

Paul, I am curious as to how you split the leather. Do you use a device designed specifically to split leather or are you using another method which doesn't require spending a couple hundred dollars.

Rayban and Al, thanks for the comments
 
Shane, I use a Landis Mod. 30 hand crank 6" capacity splitter right now, but I have A motorized Cobra Class 14 (14" capacity) headed this way from California as I type this. As far as a couple of hundred dollars, well.......... a used Landis 30 will sell for about $800 to $1000 IF you can even find one for sale, and the Cobra is $2250 plus freight. I do a pretty good unit volume and get pretty consistent use out of my splitter so the expense isn't quite as important or painful.:rolleyes:

Using my split method for inlays, etc. can be accomplished without a splitter, but you have to stock 2/3 oz leather and ideally some 6/7 oz. Make the front piece which will have the window cut out for the inlay out of 2/3 and back it with the 6/7, or if you are not lining the sheath, back it 7/8. Block cut the 2/3 and when the inlay is set, glue up to the heavier leather and cut the exact pattern thorough all the layers. (Nice even sharp edges that way).

You can give me a call anytime, identify yourself , and then we'll answer questions until you get tired.:D Number is below in my sig line.

edit to add: You can get pull through splitters many places at the $400 to $600 range, but I personally have never been able to get along with that type. I ruined way too much leather and never got reliable results. I'm sure others like them and get along with them just fine......but not me!

Paul
 
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Paul, I pretty much knew what your response was going to look like when I asked about the splitter. I could not help but to laugh out loud. I dont mind spending money as long as the ROI doesn't take 10 years. The volume just isn't there for me so your alternative sounds much more attractive. I stock all 3 of the weights you specified so I will be able to give that a try.

I appreciate the offer for a call and that is quite generous of you considering your schedule must be very full. I think I will start with your DVD collection and if I need clarification or if a topic is not covered that I have in mind, I may give you a call.

Thanks so much,
Shane
 
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