My first projects

O

Orv

Joined
Nov 6, 2013
Messages
66
Hi all!
I've been browsing this forum for several years, and just now decided to join in the discussion.

To start things off, I just acquired 2 axe heads for nothing more than a thank you.

I would like to see what you guys think about these two, and if I should even try to restore them. The double bit axe I would really like to try and get symmetrical, I'm just having a hard time figuring out how I would do it.

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That DB is pretty unique. It's worth restoring. As far as getting them to the shape you want, get familiar with a flat bastard file and commit to spending the time to get what you want. The satisfaction you get from restoring vintage tools will outweigh all the work you put into the tools.

Both axe heads can be repaired. With a file, you can shape the edge the way you like then resharpen the bit. Both look like they have plenty of hardened bit and will be worth the effort.

Glad you hooked up with BladeForums. You'll get ls of good advice here.

Later
Brent
 
The single bit has an awfully deep chip. That will take a long time to correct without power equipment. Probably not worth the effort for a beginner unless you want to do it just for practice.
 
Thanks for the advice guys!

Do most of you eyeball and file until it looks good? Or is there a way to cheat on it?

I tried to trace it out on paper, fold it in half, and then cut both sides until they matched. When I placed the paper on the blade, it didn't match up in a way that made sense.

Maybe I should just start attacking with a file?

Edit: if I do want to resurface it, would a dewalt handheld rotary sander be safe?
 
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Here's what I've got so far on the double bit. I'm fairly happy with how it turned out. Tomorrow I'm off to get a handle. Anything else I should do to this head?
 
When hanging this axe, I fit it snug, then fill in the voids with wood glue?

I found a pretty sweet haft with parallel grains, that run vertical throughout the shaft

Edit:

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Is this about how far I should try to work it on?
 
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I wouldn't use glue. You don't need it and it just makes it a pain to replace in the future. Just wedge it tight after seating the head the final time. I would raise it up some until the shoulder or widest spot on the handle is about 1/2" to 3/4" below the axe. That way if the head becomes loose you can lower it further. Once the head is at the shoulder like you show in the picture then you can't get it tight anymore if it loosens.
 
You've been busy! Nice, for you, to see that there was not much filing or rasping involved to get the head to fit the handle. Problem I've mostly always had is so much wood has had to be removed, from fresh handles, that seating the head further down at a later date is entirely out of the question. My hangings inevitably have a steep shoulder involved.
As with the advice from the previous post forget about the glue. I see a few jobs these days where impatient young bucks try to set loosely fit handles (typically sledge hammers) in place with construction adhesive (ie PL Premium). Lasts for all of 5-10 minutes or sometimes a day. PL Premium, by the way, is truly impressive stuff and not at all brittle like epoxy.
 
Orv

Nice job on your DB. It looks like you have the haft about right. It should fit into the head pretty easy without compressing the kerf too much. Fill any gaps with wood. No glue needed. That thing looks great.

Before you drive the wedge, you should remove the finish on the handle. That's not a good finish for a working tool. Sand it off with 50, 100, and 220 grit before you hang it. Finish with boiled linseed oil after it's hung, (3 coats).
 
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I spent all day yesterday trying to fit the haft with a metal file. I went and picked up a small planing tool and the helped big time. Working on sanding it down now
 
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