My First seax

Phillip Patton

Phillip Patton

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Jul 25, 2005
Messages
5,342
What do you all think?

Steel: 1084 and 15n20 The blade is made up of four bars. The two nearest the spine are opposing twist, the one in the middle is serpent, and the edge bar is random.

Hardness: probably around 58

Blade length: 16"

Total length: 22"

Blade thickness: a bit under 5/16" at the ricasso

Handle material: african blackwood with a nickel silver "bolster plate" and a stainless pin


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041615-2.jpg


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041615-4.jpg


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This is actually the second handle for this blade. Here's what it looked like before:

112514-7.jpg


I not only changed the handle, I also completely re-ground it. Gave the profile more curves, and made the clip longer. I think it's a lot better now.
 
I think its astoundingly beautiful, and the Damascus pattern is gorgeous!!! :eek: ---- :thumbup:

Beautiful work sir!
 
Insane!
 
I just made a noise upon seeing that image that only a caveman could translate. Kind of a "hhhhgggggooouuuughhgo!":D

Love the new handle! :thumbup::thumbup:

Epic.
 
hey man, that looks great! I will tell you what George Ezell told me once. If you look at originals, there is not a straight line on them. Sometimes the clip is almost straight, but pretty much everything else is a curve. Just fyi. I have made a two seaxs of almost the same profile as that one, and I think yours is beautiful.
 
Thanks for the kind words!
There's not a straight line on this one either. If it looks like there is, it's just a trick of the camera angles. The original version (shown in the last picture) was straighter, but I ground more curves into all the edges when I reworked it.
 
WOW! Beautiful! The only problem is that I have an eye for utility, and it keeps twitching. Yes, I know, you will probably never really use this large knife, but, I cant help but notice that the point is far to pointy. It seems like if you actually tried to use this knife the way the seax is intended, the tip would break right off. Just my $0.02. Nice Damascus by the way!
 
Livin' On The Edge said:
WOW! Beautiful! The only problem is that I have an eye for utility, and it keeps twitching. Yes, I know, you will probably never really use this large knife, but, I cant help but notice that the point is far to pointy. It seems like if you actually tried to use this knife the way the seax is intended, the tip would break right off. Just my $0.02. Nice Damascus by the way!
Click to expand...

The broken back seax was a historical form.

British_Museum_Sittingbourne_Seax.jpg
 
Philip - ok, then I just didn't see it correctly the first time.
I withdraw my comment about straight edges/lines. I did that on my first couple, and so I guess I saw that when it wasn't there on yours.

I don't withdraw my comment about the thing looking great. That is some nice work.
kc
 
kevin -the professor said:
Philip - ok, then I just didn't see it correctly the first time.
I withdraw my comment about straight edges/lines. I did that on my first couple, and so I guess I saw that when it wasn't there on yours.

I don't withdraw my comment about the thing looking great. That is some nice work.
kc
Click to expand...

No need to withdraw anything, Kevin. You're right, they should be more curved. It was more curved before I hardened it. Then it straightened out and I had to grind some curve back in...

I just heat treated another in plain L6, and it kept it's curve just fine. :thumbup:

I also agree with Livin' On The Edge. The thin tip scares me. But, like Triton said, it is a historical design, so it must work. The L6 blade I'm working on has a more upswept tip, so I think it'll be stronger.

crimsonfalcon07, I was working on a plain leather sheath, but I don't think it's going to work out. I may make a wood scabbard of some sort.

Thanks for all the comments guys.
 
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