My first serious attempt at knife making

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Apr 29, 2019
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I've been making knives for a while now but I've never really put 100% of myself into one until now. I recently got married and my brother-in-law is interested in custom knives so I decided to make him one for Christmas. He's not one for this kind of forum so I doubt he'll see it early.

The steel is AEB-L and is treated with the method that Hoss has previously posted on this site. With some rhc tests my dad and I did we got about 61 hrc for the AEB-L we treated this way so I assume it's about that hard.

After heat treat, I ground the secondary bevels first at 15 degrees. I do this because it makes it waaaaaay easier (for me at least) to keep from ruining the of the knife because you form the thinnest part of the blade while your blank still has a bunch of meat to soak the heat. I then flat ground the blade. You'll notice that the blade doesn't have any plunge line; this is because the entire tang is also ground flat to be in line with the plane of the primary bevels. I've seen many people do this with kitchen knives and never quite understood why you wouldn't do it with every knife. It makes finishing significantly easier and it removes one of the most difficult parts of grinding (making symmetrical plunge lines).

After grinding the bevels and tang I took it to the disk sander and made sure everything was flat, finished it to 400 grit satin and glued the handles on, which are black canvas micarta with a top layer of raffir 3 stage glowing resin.

I'm not proud of the sheath but I'll learn how to work with leather better in the future. For now its just kydex.

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Looks great, I like it!

The blade profile and thickness makes your knife look like a very capable piece.
 
I'd suggest in future projects to try canting your handle's face forward to slightly less than 90 degrees to the edge, like this;
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that handle material is pretty cool
 
I'd suggest in future projects to try canting your handle's face forward to slightly less than 90 degrees to the edge, like this;
BrXdp0y.jpg


that handle material is pretty cool
Yeah you're right, I was worried about clearance for sharpening but I think I worried a tad too much haha. Thanks for the tip!
 
I'd suggest in future projects to try canting your handle's face forward to slightly less than 90 degrees to the edge, like this;

Can you also please explain why this necessary or it just an aesthetic thing?
 
feels weird to be responding to a banned person, but for anyone else who cares, it's an aesthetic suggestion that also considers the tiny triangle of handle material between the forefinger and choil. The tinier and pointier this triangle is, the more likely it will chip and/or break. There needs to be enough material there to ensure long term durability, kinda like how you decide how much material to leave where your primary and secondary bevels meet. A lot of people radius the front of their handles and that's a good way to avoid that potential weak point
 
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