you guys are too kind. Thanks for the compliments!
Payback462, here's a thread to get you started on working with Kydex:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=108946
I got my material from Blade-Tech. They have two thicknesses, .06 and .08. The sheath that I made was from the .08 stock. I'm still looking for a source for better Chicago screws.
Here's what I used to make the sheath:
Old toaster oven (my wife wouldn't let me use the kitchen oven) If I ever have to sheath something big like a PAB, I'm gonna have to sneak.
Cutting shears (basically big metal working sissors)
Heat gun
Dremmel tool, Jig saw, drill, coping saw, belt sander, lots of sandpaper (60, 150 and 400 grit)
Dense Foam - two pieces (like blue sleeping pad foam laminated together until it's about 2.5 inches thick) to press/mold the kydex.
Here is the short version on how to do it:
Wrap the blade in a few layers of masking tape. Make sure to keep the knife lines clean and don't have any lumpy areas. Cut a rough template (not too detailed, just the basic shape) out of paper or cardboard and wrap it around the knife. Then trace out the shape on the kydex and cut. If you have a band saw, I would use that. My jig saw worked ok. You can trim with shears or with the dremmel.
Heat the oven to about 325 and put the kydex in for about 3 minutes until it is really rubbery. Use a pair of cotton gloves to manipulate it. Once the material is ready, wrap it around the knife like a taco and place it between 2 pieces of foam. You can put it in a vice or stand on it until it cools (about 3 minutes) I rocked back and forth on it. Once cooled, remove it from the foam and check it out. If it doesn't looks like something you think you can work with toss it back into the oven and it will go back to it's original shape.
Once you get a good fit, use a pencil and draw the shape of the final sheath. Don't forget to include room for the screws or eyelets. I left about 3/4 of an inch from the edge of the blade for my screws. At the opening of the sheath you my want to think about how it's going to work. On my sheath I like to have an area where I can grip the handle and press my thumb on the sheath to assist in removing the knife. If you look closely at the first pic you can see an area on the back of the sheath where the thumb would naturaly go. This part I have a little extra material and flared-out slightly. I also flared-out the openings around the guard so it could fit into the sheath easier.
Cut the along the pencil lines with the band saw or jig saw. Use the dremmel tool and shears for the fine work. Most of the other material removal tasks you can use a belt sander, file or sandpaper. Finish shaping the sheath.
Use the heat gun to flare out the opening and sand some more once you finish. If you are testing the knife in the sheath, clean it out well or you'll scratch the knife. Blow it out with compressed air and rinse it in some water.
The tricky part is getting the knife in tight while still being able to draw it out. Using the heat gun try to only heat the spot that you want to work. Use cardboard to mask-off areas you don't want heated. You can mold areas with your fingers. Becareful with the heat gun. It has a way of unshaping areas that you didn't want heated.
Placement of the screws is important at this point, especially the one nearest the opening. You have to play around using your fingers to simulate where to place that first screw. Once you've figured it out, drill a hole and put a screw in. Test the fit with the knife. More then likely the knife will be really tight if you got a good fit from the beginning. Use the heat gun to open up or tighen area as needed.
On the Strider knives, you will have to slightly open up the area so the guards can get in. Once the guards are in you'll need to heat up and tighten the area just behind the guards. I also cut a short slit along the fold of the "taco" so that the material can open up a little to accept the blade.
I guess this turned out to be a longer "how to" version then I anticipated. Play around with it, you'll get it. Look at the sheath makers sites and see what they do before you get started. If you have sheaths already, study them and incorporate the ideas into your design.
Good luck working with kydex, it's a lot of fun and pretty easy.
email me if you have any questions.
S.
