My first spyderco!...with a minor nag

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Aug 28, 2012
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138
Recently I was itching for a medium sized FFG folder, and decided to settle for a spydie since I love the deployment style with the spydie hole. At first I was torn between the Native 5 and the Para 2 since they both have their pros and cons to me; love the spear/leaf blade and the overall design on the Native 5, yet all the rave about the Para 2 is pretty convincing that it's a great knife since I prefer a larger handle and the huge lanyard hole. But the things that turn me off from the Para 2 was the compression lock not being ambidextrous and the shape of the blade tip.

With the itch growing stronger I can not help but to cure it with a knife:D, seeing as Para 2's are out of stock every where, settled on a Native 5 since I got a sweet deal to boot. The F&F was almost 100%, edge was slightly off center and the bevels are a bit off, but those are just minor annoyances.

The only thing that nags me tho is that when deployed, pressing full down on the lock the blade doesn't drop by gravity and have to flick the wrist a bit for it to fall down, should I loosen the torx a wee bit? Should I take it apart and replace the stock grease? Or should I just use it more and let it work itself in?


Cheers.
 
Recently I was itching for a medium sized FFG folder, and decided to settle for a spydie since I love the deployment style with the spydie hole. At first I was torn between the Native 5 and the Para 2 since they both have their pros and cons to me; love the spear/leaf blade and the overall design on the Native 5, yet all the rave about the Para 2 is pretty convincing that it's a great knife since I prefer a larger handle and the huge lanyard hole. But the things that turn me off from the Para 2 was the compression lock not being ambidextrous and the shape of the blade tip.

With the itch growing stronger I can not help but to cure it with a knife:D, seeing as Para 2's are out of stock every where, settled on a Native 5 since I got a sweet deal to boot. The F&F was almost 100%, edge was slightly off center and the bevels are a bit off, but those are just minor annoyances.

The only thing that nags me tho is that when deployed, pressing full down on the lock the blade doesn't drop by gravity and have to flick the wrist a bit for it to fall down, should I loosen the torx a wee bit? Should I take it apart and replace the stock grease? Or should I just use it more and let it work itself in?


Cheers.

Seeing as how this knife has a total of three defects, I would send it back and get another. Seems like you got one that slipped through quality control. The deployment issue would probably improve once you use the knife a bit. My para 2 was a bit stiff when I first got it, but that solved itself with a bit of use.
 
Personally I wouldn't sweat it, it'll break in. You could try adjusting the pivot screw if you want or just rinse it out with hot water and relube.
 
No major issue there. Normal use opening & closing should break it in smoothly. Loosening pivot now might result in too loose later.
 
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It will wear in nicely. You'll see =) If you want immediate results, some tweaking of the pivot and lubing should do the trick.
 
I have heard some say that the pivot bushing system shouldn't necessarily "gravity drop" the blade when the lock release is pressed (in either the Para2 or Native5)... but I disagree... it should. That said, since yours is brand spanking new, give it some break in time and see if it doesn't come around. Otherwise every so slightly tweaking the pivot screw should give you your desire results (and I do mean "ever so slightly", it doesn't take much). Alternatively you could (again, ever so slightly) loosen the frame screw up near the pivot... sometimes that can be enough to release whatever pressure is binding the blade without having to mess with the pivot.

Oh, and regarding the Para2's lack of ambidexterity... given the method of closure on a back lock like the Native5, the Para2 is easily as ambidextrous. Just push the compression lock with your left thumb and the blade drops... easy. However, it is true that closing a Para2 any other way with the left hand is more challenging... but in comparison to a Native5 (or any back lock and how they are closed) the Para2 is easily comparable right or left handed.
 
Don't think there's any need to send it in since it's off by less than a third of a millimeter, and plan to convex and polish the edge once I'm bothered enough.

Always leaned toward a ambidextrous design from having a somewhat jacked up left thumb that's not so dexterous, but on second thought instead of moving the lock with a left motion of the thumb while the blade is facing down, the blade could be turned on it's side and push the lock with a downward motion by turning he blade to the right.

Hmm..Think I'll play with it for a couple of months and let it break in, if it still doesn't drop the blade when pressing on the lock then I'll have a go with the torx screw.


Cheers.
 
Underdog,

If you are looking for a larger Spyderco that is truly ambidextrous I highly recommend the Manix 2 XL.

The ball bearing lock cage is very tight when new, but mine is loosening up very well after a bit of use.

I currently have 11 Spyderco knives, and the Manix is the only one that I can easily open and close with my left hand.
 
Well I've never seen a backlock that the blade would just fall closed when the lock was disengaged. If you just give it a shake forward that should do the trick.
 
Native 5 has the same pivot bushing system as the Para Military2 and thus will gravity drop.
 
I wouldn't bother sending it back. Edge is abit off, that is indicative of most production knives I think. I always oil my knives as soon as I get them, and then give them two weeks to break in. That might sound like alot. But I had a CTS Para 2 that took about that long to break in. That was with the screws holding the handle together tightened to no signs of bladeplay. It is smooth as butter now. Most probably don't agree with waiting that long but the washers are basically polishing themselves against the blade and washers inside the handle. That takes a bit. Granted I have received Para 2's that were smooth as all get out, with no bladeplay pretty much right away. It is just hit or miss.
 
I have heard some say that the pivot bushing system shouldn't necessarily "gravity drop" the blade when the lock release is pressed (in either the Para2 or Native5)... but I disagree... it should.

Just because it can, doesn't mean it should. Every time metal hits metal, there is a gradual effect of increasing wear. While it may look cool, it's not good to make the knife do this.

Use two hands, if you have them.
 
One of my favorite things about my Para 2 and the reason that it bumped my 0350 as my most carried edc knife is because I can open and close it one handed with out any flicking or closing the blade using my leg or whatever else is around. I love that the blade drops by gravity and would be disappointed if it stopped doing that.
 
One of my favorite things about my Para 2 and the reason that it bumped my 0350 as my most carried edc knife is because I can open and close it one handed with out any flicking or closing the blade using my leg or whatever else is around. I love that the blade drops by gravity and would be disappointed if it stopped doing that.

+1

These things are made of steel... I think they can handle being used within their design specifications (ie, all 3 of my Para2s came with the ability to gravity drop... thinking that's how it was designed). I am not talking about abusing the knife, just using it one handed... gravity dropping need not be aggressive... just depressing the lock release causes the blade to fall and the choil to hit your index finger... from there you can easily (and carefully) close it if you wish. Pretty sure that's how the pivot bushing is designed to work... and very easy to do one handed. Flicking it open and closed is also easy to do (and fun)... and I don't have a problem with that either... again, these things are steel and pretty durable. I'm not too worried about wearing my knife out by opening and closing it. If that does cause it to wear out, maybe we all need a different knife.
 
The only thing that nags me tho is that when deployed, pressing full down on the lock the blade doesn't drop by gravity and have to flick the wrist a bit for it to fall down,
I hate to tell you, but I EDC mine Native5 for more than two month and the blade still doesn't drop. I even didn't expect the blade to drop. Most of my knives are lock-backs and on some of them blade drops, but on most of the don't. I oldest EDC is C83 Persian. I carry it for more than six years - blade doesn't drop. G10 Caly3 was carried for about four years - blade doesn't drop. Caly3.5 was carried for about a year and half - blade move may be 1/2". Damascus Caly never was carried -blade drops. Go figure.
 
Not one backlock spyderco knife I own blade drops from gravity. Even so they can all be flicked open with just a little practice.
 
I hate to tell you, but I EDC mine Native5 for more than two month and the blade still doesn't drop. I even didn't expect the blade to drop. Most of my knives are lock-backs and on some of them blade drops, but on most of the don't. I oldest EDC is C83 Persian. I carry it for more than six years - blade doesn't drop. G10 Caly3 was carried for about four years - blade doesn't drop. Caly3.5 was carried for about a year and half - blade move may be 1/2". Damascus Caly never was carried -blade drops. Go figure.

^ This.
The blade doesn't drop on most lockbacks like they do on other types of locks. I only have one that does, its an early 90's Endura that has dropped since new.
 
The Native5 has the same pivot bushing system as the Para2... that's why it will gravity drop (brand new from the factory it may be stiff, but should break in). Here's a YT vid by jdavis882 on a new Native5... go to the 3:12 mark and you will see what I am talking about.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rl2OVjRzUUY

Also here is Eric Glesser demoing the Native5 prototype in which he demos the gravity drop at about the 1:40 mark.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTSaVW0XSO0
 
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It has become somewhat smoother after playing with it all night and during down time at work, seems like most of the friction is caused by the lock face rubbing against the tang since the spring is so strong. Gonna try putting a very small amount of vaseline and zippo mixture on the lock to see if it helps.
 
Let it break in. My delicas/enduras that have seen a decent amount of use all swing freely with the lock depressed.
 
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