Old motor oil isn't really a good quenchant for 1095. But, if it is all you have, then use it. In the case of a 1095 sword, it might help being a tad slower than optimal, as 1095 isn't a great sword steel. You are much better off to make swords out of hypo eutectoid and eutectoid steels - 1070, 1075, 1080, 1084, and 5160.
Austenitize at 1475°F and temper at 450-500°F. Heat the blade as evenly as possible if pumping through a shorter forge. The edge is what you are watching, BTW. Avoid overheating the edge. Turn the forge down as low as it will go for the HT. While a 5-10 minute soak is nice, when pumping a sword just watch the edge and when it is the right color give it a couple more pumps and quench.
Do normalizing on the sword before the quench.
Straighten all twist and warp before the quench.
Clean off al scale before the quench.
With your motor oil quenchant you should not get any sori.
Quench tank should be at 120°F.
Use lots of quenchant. For a 30" blade 5 gallons minimum, 10 is better.
6" diameter tank is best for a sword. 4" is minimum. You want a tank at least 6" deeper than your blade. An old oxygen or other large gas tank with the top cut off makes a perfect sword quench tank.
Go into the tank straight down and in a smooth quench. Move it up and down only.
After 8 seconds, pull it out, wipe it off with an old rag, .. and immediately straighten any warp ( wear heavy gloves and use rags). If the blade starts to stiffen, stop straightening. You can straighten the blade from 900°F to 400°F with ease. Below 400, it will break. Any additional straightening should be at tempering temps after the second temper.
TIP:
A straightening block is invaluable with swords ( and knives). Take a 12" piece of 2X6 and cut slots halfway down the side at 3" 6" and 9". Make the slots 3/16", 1/4" ,and 3/8" wide to accommodate various blade thicknesses. Clamp this in the vise near the quench tank with the slots facing up. When you pull the sword from the quench, you can stick the blade in the slot and bend in any direction as well as undo twists. The wood does not suck the heat out of the blade like metal vice jaws would. I also have a wooden top to set over the anvil and use a wooden mallet/hammer (I call it a schwacker) to hammer out any warps that need a whack. Again, the wood doesn't rapidly cool the blade like the metal anvil would.
