My first time Convexing :)

C

chococrazy

Joined
Jul 1, 2009
Messages
506


First time ever convexing. I used 320 grit 400 grit 1k and 2k grit sandpaper all wet/dry! Finished with my strop. It's sharp, can't whittle hair like my v edges, but it's sharp. I love how smooth the edge feels and how easy it was to get a mirror polish up.
 
Looks great! Keep at it, and you'll be hair-whittlin' in no time. I find that, with convex, it seems that the more times I touch it up, the finer and more refined the edge becomes. Convex was the first time I was able to whittle hair.

Welcome to the convex sickness!
 
The secret to "hair poppin'" is when you get in higher grits, make sure you are not pressing very hard at all, just slightly more than the weight of the blade.
 
samhain73 said:
The secret to "hair poppin'" is when you get in higher grits, make sure you are not pressing very hard at all, just slightly more than the weight of the blade.
Click to expand...

Dammit, Samhain, Now EVERYBODY knows the secret!:D

That definitely works, but I also find that convexing is more forgiving of pressure, and if you are careful with your angles, even a little more pressure gives me stupidly sharp edges. But, it's better to use good technique, usually.
 
I got it sharper in about 50 strokes on a 2k grit then stropping again at almost no pressure. Now it shaves like a champ haven't tried hair whittling yet, but push cutting with these aren't that good? Anyone else experience it, but slicing OH GOD don't get me started on slicing with these. It's like cutting through water it's like a laser :O.
 
Push cutting should be its strong point, when I sharpen my bro's BRKT bravo2 even as low as 400 grit will push cut news print. Go a little more with the 2k you should get a hazy mirror polish that is razor sharp, strop after this point and experience zen :D
 
So you're doing this on a mousepad then?

I have gotten everything together and I want to try it. I have an old Sodbuster that's been sharpened so many times it is sort of convex anyway.

How hard does one hold down? It would seem to get the convex you'd need to press hard enough to get the mouspad to give and thus have a curved surface...but all I read is how light to keep the touch.

Any tips?

Ultimately, I want to convex my Gerber LMF (I think) but I'd like to practice on some other knives I've got first.
 
HoosierQ said:
So you're doing this on a mousepad then?

I have gotten everything together and I want to try it. I have an old Sodbuster that's been sharpened so many times it is sort of convex anyway.

How hard does one hold down? It would seem to get the convex you'd need to press hard enough to get the mouspad to give and thus have a curved surface...but all I read is how light to keep the touch.

Any tips?

Ultimately, I want to convex my Gerber LMF (I think) but I'd like to practice on some other knives I've got first.
Click to expand...
I'm not using a mousepad I'm using a scouring pad called mirlon often used on cars to prime them for painting (I got all my equipment from my dad's car body shop).
 
Last edited:
Tried a new method using my dad's synthetic weight belt!
It's a little harder than the mousapad, and is much firmer than the Veryfine Mirlon.

It's hair whittling!! This is before my strop bat ;)
Sry for the bad pics I need to get into photography more >.< I used a 10.1 MP Powershot
 
Heres a little list of tips I have for first time convexers.
1. If you are going from a v edge to a convex I recommend starting at 320 wet/dry sand paper.
2.The grits I used to get a hair whittling was 320,400,1k,2k, and strop. I spent the most time on 2k, and the least on 320.
3. When you start out at 320 sharpen with the blade nearly FLAT. I mean FLAT!
4. When you are at 1k/2k sharpen with a bit of angle not to much very little. I can check by looking at the edge while on the sandpaper you'll know when it's touching by looking at it.
5. The pressure is probably the one most people need help on. On the reprofiling grits (320,400) you can use some pressure, but make sure the edge is FLAT. By some I mean just enough so you can see thing under it deform a TINY bit. On 1k/2k raise the edge a little, but use NO pressure barely the weight of the blade. Use increasingly less pressure as you move higher in grits and strokes.
 
chococrazy said:
Heres a little list of tips I have for first time convexers.
1. If you are going from a v edge to a convex I recommend starting at 320 wet/dry sand paper.
2.The grits I used to get a hair whittling was 320,400,1k,2k, and strop. I spent the most time on 2k, and the least on 320.
3. When you start out at 320 sharpen with the blade nearly FLAT. I mean FLAT!
4. When you are at 1k/2k sharpen with a bit of angle not to much very little. I can check by looking at the edge while on the sandpaper you'll know when it's touching by looking at it.
5. The pressure is probably the one most people need help on. On the reprofiling grits (320,400) you can use some pressure, but make sure the edge is FLAT. By some I mean just enough so you can see thing under it deform a TINY bit. On 1k/2k raise the edge a little, but use NO pressure barely the weight of the blade. Use increasingly less pressure as you move higher in grits and strokes.
Click to expand...

Thanks a BUNCH for that list! I just tried convexing for the first time myself and I'm pretty sure I totally botched it :(

In fact, I don't think I did a single thing on your list correctly, haha...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top