My first waterstone edge.

T

ThatsMyKnife

Joined
Dec 4, 2012
Messages
78
12-28-2012018_zps327d5059.jpg


This is the first knife I tried out on my combo 250/1000grit stone. It was very fun to use the waterstone and much easier then I thought it would be.

After the stones I stropped it with Bark River black and green compounds, im looking into getting the white compound too. Thanks
 
Congrats on jumping in with both feet. There is no greater satisfaction than freehand sharpening, and no greater accomplishment than having the balls to just try it. The pic looks good, but it's impossible to really comment unless you can say if you are happy with the performance. Does it cut well, in your eyes? Then I'd say 100% success. If you really want honest feedback, then I would say to work on maintaining a consistent angle (you can see the multiple lines in the bevel from uneven angles; this can be fixed naturally with with time and practice) and working the whole edge evenly (your bevel is thin at the tip and wide at the belly; this can be fixed by compensating along the plane of the actual edge at the belly and following the belly's curve; this is usually easiest done by lifting the handle as your edge approaches the tip, where the most severe curvature is). But practice will fix both very minor issues.

As for the products, I hear very good things about Bark River compounds. I wouldn't bother with the white compound, though. Green is as fine as you need. White is more useful as a final step if you've got a buffing wheel, from what I've understood; it doesn't cut steel very well and probably wouldn't be worth much on a leather strop. Someone correct me if I'm wrong; that's all I've ever heard.

Another product I highly suggest is Wenol metal polish (some people prefer Flitz). I like Wenol (nice consistency, cleans and protects, and smells good), but any good metal polish will easily get that surface rust off with just a corner of a paper towel and little light rubbing and will not leave obviously-polished spots or affect the grind finish.

Cheers and thanks for the pic.
 
Hey guys, another quick post. Recently two of my knives had an edge on collision( Ugggg it was my fault ). My KaBar TDI knife only had a small chip and a roll so I fixed it up quite nicely.

Carsten1-5-2013004_zpsba53a4c3.jpg


But my other knife, its just a cheap kitchen knife, took alittle more damage.

Carsten1-5-2013006_zpseeb85fec.jpg


Carsten1-5-2013005_zpsadbba0ab.jpg


You can see the chip in the blade as the part shining under my middle finger.

I was wondering since the knife is already quite thin, what I should do to remove the chip without making the primary edge to weak and thin.

Thanks.
 
First, is it really a chip? It kinda looks like it's mash out to one side. In all honesty, it will eventually sharpen out. If it's the only one, I would consider just leaving it, or if its not a chip, straightening it out with a steel and just sharpening on. You'll remove a considerable amount of steel to get it out, shortening the life of the knife. If you can't live with it, just keep sharpening it down 'til it's gone. I really liked my 250/1000 grit stone. A few knives that were easy to sharpen would get a hair whittling edge off just the 1000 grit side, no stropping needed. Every once in a while, I can get an edge that'll split a hair off just the 250 side, but that's pretty difficult.
 
Ya it turned out to be more of mash then a chip. So I used the steel on it then a 1000 and 2000 grit paper then stropping and its good as it was before. Thanks.
 
Not too bad of a chip there, to be honest. It's a jiffy. A little regular sharpening work on a coarse stone, and it will come right out in the course of the coarse stone reprofile, I'd bet. Especially on a cheaper kitchen knife with softer steel. Sometimes, I just virtually ignore a chip like that on that kind of knife, because it will work itself out while I'm reprofiling on the Naniwa Omura.
 
Magnaminous_G said:
Not too bad of a chip there, to be honest. It's a jiffy. A little regular sharpening work on a coarse stone, and it will come right out in the course of the coarse stone reprofile, I'd bet. Especially on a cheaper kitchen knife with softer steel. Sometimes, I just virtually ignore a chip like that on that kind of knife, because it will work itself out while I'm reprofiling on the Naniwa Omura.
Click to expand...

Yeah, for me it's a hard decision to grind a deformation like that out, or just let it work itself out with natural sharpening. It usually depends on the blade length for me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top