My KITH Knife (Knives)

R

rwn2000

Joined
Jan 6, 2003
Messages
716
I started on my KITH knife about 2 weeks ago. I really want this to turn out well so I'm forcing myself to take my time. I'm also hedging my bets a little and working on 2 knives for this project.

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Whichever one turns out the best will be the KITH knife. I'm HOPING it's the hidden tang one but I know i can do a good job on the full tang with bolsters, so that's the backup plan. The top blade has been profiled, ground, heat treated and hand sanded to 1200 grit at this point. The bottom blade is ground, sanded to 220 grit and ready for heat treat, after I decide on the filework and complete that.

Notice the Elk antler cut-off for the pommel. Resident security officer Teddy approves.

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I spent 5 minutes looking for it in the house and my shop, then looked over on the couch and there it was.

Pic of this weekend's work:
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The only difference in the top and bottom pic is that the blue block of 416 stainless now looks somewhat like a guard. It's fitted, shaped and contoured, ready for installation. I took my time and did it as carefully as possible. It's not "Nick Wheeler" perfect but it's close. :) Hell, it ain't close, but it's pretty good for a mere mortal. :)

Notice the tapered scrap of O1 in the guard? I rough fitted that as a way to hold the guard in the vise without marking up the guard while filing teh contours in

randy

I'll post more as I make progress..
 
Niiiiice.....


Go for the full-tang. That's just my bias, though, because I like full tangs. Actually, I REALLY like the tapered tang; are you doing a tapered tang on the full tang version at the bottom? Although... a tapered tang with a rather full-bellied blade like that might not work out as well in balance. Might end up being blade heavy, which I don't think would be desireable, and certainly not necessary, in a blade that length. Dunno. I know both look NICE so far, though.
 
i probably won't taper the tang on the bottom one. If I was going to do that, I should have done it before I profiled the bottom of the tang; it would be hard to taper it now with that sharp angle on the bottom of the tang and keep it even. I need to do some file work on the tang, drill some more holes in the tang next and get it heat treated. I've been working on the top one, though. I fitted a bolt to the end of the tang and fitted the block of maple so it's coming along.

thanks for the comments

randy
 
I got some more work done on the hidden tang this week: First, I slotted and pinned a 3/8" bolt to the tang to extend it. This was the first time I have ever done that and it was a learning experience (took 3 bolts to get it right). I drilled and slotted the block of maple and rough shaped it to about +1/16" and it's ready for glue up. I also couldn't stand it and did a quick 400 grit sanding on the handle and oiled it to see what the grain will look like. I like it so far.

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I plan on using the a nut on the 3/8" bolt for clamping force when gluing up the guard, front spacers and back spacers, but using a release agent on the nut so I can remove it, then drill and pin the antler pommel. Does anybody see a reason why this wouldn't work?

Comments are welcome
randy
PS I apologize for the blurry pic; i didn't realize it was that bad until I had already uploaded it.
 
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