My Kumar Karda is here! How to file test?

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Apr 7, 2005
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Got my newest aquisition in the mail yesterday and I really must say that I'm highly pleased with it. The knife is quite beautiful and I love the contrast the handle makes (U.S. Antler). The handle is much more beautiful than I imagined so I definitely want to keep it in it's great condition. Anyone have any suggestions to keeping the antler this nice looking but still being able to utilize the knife (afer all, a knife is meant to be used!). Also, can anyone explain in detail just how to hardness test a blade with the file method? I have heard about it but am unaware of the technique.

Thanks again Yangdu for a wonderful knife!

Yours,
Jack
 
Jack, you just run a file down the edge of the blade. It will bite into soft steel, and skitter across the hardened stuff. Careful not to scratch up your blade, if that matters to you. Once you've done a few its easy to judge.
 
ShadowchaserUFP said:
Anyone have any suggestions to keeping the antler this nice looking but still being able to utilize the knife (afer all, a knife is meant to be used!).

Jack, one of the best substances to use on antlers (and most other materials used in knives) is called Renessaince Wax.
This is the stuff used by many museums and collectors.

If you intend to use the knife, a change in the appearence in the antler will be unavoidable. Antler is a special bone which has many small pores where the blood vessels run when it was still growing. These will take up oil from your hands or the preserving materials, which will lead to darkening of the white material. It will also become yellowish and slightly translucent, especially where the material is thinner. Some tiny cracks might "appear" or better say: become visible.
Many people prefer the golden, aged look of the antler over the white new look.

If you dont mind the aged look of the antler, and dont have access to Renessaince Wax, you might use food grade mineral oil (sold as laxative in pharmacies like Walgreens etc.). Its is cheap and will protect the steel and the brass from rapid oxidation too. Some people soak their antler knives for several hours or a day in mineral oil each year. This will prevent the antler to crack up due to drying out but will definitely darken the color.
If you use mineral oil on the blades, remember to spread it very evenly and leave just a very thin film behind. If you leave a lot, the mineral oil will coalesce in droplets and leave large areas uncovered. Humidity from the air will attack unevenly the surface and you might end up with blotchy surface, a mixture of shiny and darkened or rusty areas.

Do a search on "Renessaince Wax" and "mineral oil".
Some people might suggest Ballistol.

I myself am using mineral oil on all of my khukuries and most of my knives, the stag/antler handled ones included.
 
After you "file test" the blade, all the best to you if you have any steel that the file skittered over. That steel will give you fits.
 
I would not run a file over the edge of any knife - unless I wanted to damage the edge or try to repair it. Files are harder than most knife edges. The back of a differentially hardened Hi knife blade is soft steel, and it is easy to shape it with a file.

If you can sharpen the knife to a good fine edge and it holds it through use - then it is hard enough. If the steel is soft, you may have a difficult time getting a good edge on it with stones.
 
Congrats on your KK. Super knife.
A link to Renaissance Wax. http://www.restorationproduct.com/ It's good stuff. Great for blades that you have to put away for a while. I use it on all of my collection on steel, wood, horn, antler. For users, mineral oil for the blade and antler as Littleknife suggested. I agree with what Arty said regarding the hardening. If it stays sharp for a reasonable time, it's hard enough.

Steve
 
Picture time!

side1.jpg

side2.jpg

closeupUB.jpg

closeupkami.jpg


Hope you enjoy these!

Jack
 
The file isn't run *across* the edge...it's run *along* the edge, parallel to it. Also, you don't actually use any real pressure on it. A new, sharp, good quality file is used. It *does* take practice but it can certainly point out the general range of hardness as well as let you see/feel/hear the difference between hardness zones.
 
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