my latest modern slippie (pics update)

peter r

peter r

Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
1,690
this is the most recent in a series of slipjoints ive been making. im trying to bring a modern twist on slipjoints.

8 5/8 inch OAL
3.5 inch cpm154 blade hrc 60
.060ti liners mill relieved
carbon fiber scales with orange g10 liners

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New pics. i have redone some things and am still tweaking the whole. but its looking better allready.

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Do you really want to know what I think?

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
No offense, but traditional custom slipjoints are doing just fine in the 21st century;)
 
wow, i had no idea this could be seen as a negative. i love traditional slipjoints. this knife and my style of slipjoints is in no way intended to take away from any other style of knife. it was simply to offer a new take on things.

best regards, Peter
 
You asked for it, remember that, please.

ANY "decent" slipjoint is defined by superlative fit and finish.

On this particular piece, the fit and finish are lacking.

1. As far as I can tell from the pics, the rear screw sits proud, and the middle screw sits far too deep, and the pivot is really unattractive, and finished roughly. I use Brownell's VERY expensive screw slot-cutting files and they are completely worth the price, imo. Using a Dremel cutter is not the way to go.

2. That belt satin finish is uneven and far too coarse.

3. The secondary bevel on your blade is uneven....yes I do know how hard that is to do, BTW, and I wouldn't put my name on a wharncliffe blade that wasn't "right".

4. The fit on your last picture by the joint of spine to blade is slightly "gappy" and also finished far too roughly.

On the Plus side, the shape is interesting, and you have got good centering from side-to-side as far as I can tell.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
i appreciete it much. its only my 3rd slipjoint ever. the slot in the pivot is factory, its a chainring bolt i didnt make any of the cuts. the rear screw is proud because of a design flaw. i tapered the scales twords the back. it seems i couldnt have the handle profile i wanted and keep the recessed screws. and i think i will sand the contour again on your suggestion, to get it to a more polished sheen. the spring is flush and gapless however. i attibute the look to the pics.

one thing i will say about the definition of a "decent" slipjoint. i have owned several 400-500$ slipjoints by sought after makers and none of them had the tightness , lack of blade play, and solid lockup of this knife. but there finish and sheen was definitely keener than mine.
 
I like the blade shape, and don't see anything wrong with trying to use modern materials in a "Traditional" knife. Most "Traditional" makers have used carbon fibre, micarta, and other modern materials (glass, plastics, resins, etc) in their work.

I do think STeven has pointed out some areas that can be improved. That too can be a positive, especially if this is your third knife. Pictures can show things you'd never see otherwise and are a good tool to use to review your work.

I would suggest you try using some better materials (fasteners specifically), and work on improving the fine details in your handwork. Check out gnsmithing and watchmakeing suppliers for parts.
 
peter r said:
....SNIP>>>
one thing i will say about the definition of a "decent" slipjoint. i have owned several 400-500$ slipjoints by sought after makers and none of them had the tightness , lack of blade play, and solid lockup of this knife. but there finish and sheen was definitely keener than mine.
Click to expand...

Not sure whose knives you bought, but I have custom slippies from several makers in the $300 range and under that exhibit ZERO blade play and have SOLID lockup and darn respectable finish too.
 
F&f issues aside, very interesting. Fresh take on the swayback shape. With some refinement, you could be on the verge of developing a product line appealing to trads & tacticools.
 
Peter,I know you are proud as a new papa and it's hard when some one says "OMG that's the ugliest kid I've ever seen":D Iknow because last weekend Gayle Bradley went over one of mine,and by the time he was through I was ready to throw it in the trash.but he told me how to fix those problems and also the amount of improvement I had made in the last year.
So have a thick skin and let it make you better,you are off to a good start for #3.
I like your style and design and use of modern components,but agree with STeven,fit and finish needs work,The swedges are uneven and not centered,your secondary bevel is uneven,and the plunge cuts are ground over.
I don't care for the rough belt finish on the blade and back,looks unfinished.I also use some chainring bolts,but take the time to file out the slits and heads to remove all the little machine marks.
Keep it up,your on the right path.
Stan
 
i do have thick skin, i dont necessarily agree with the manner of criticism, but criticism is all good to me. i agree with most of it. i sanded down the contour to 400 grit but i didnt like it so i went back to 220. if i was to sell it i would go to 400 or 600i suppose. i am going to retweak the grind now and see how it looks.
 
peter r, you posted "let me know what you think" not say something if you like it. I'm no knife maker and never will be, but I do own and have owned a lot of custom folders--mainly slipjoints in a variety of price points. Many of them have modern materials. All of them are very well made.

I think the main phrase in your OP that set a little wrong with me (and perhaps I read too much in to it) was your remark that you were trying to bring slipjoints into the 21st century or something to that effect.--which I now see that you have edited out.

I'm sure you will find a niche market for what you're doing especially if you refine your work some. That said, there's a great market in the more traditional looking patterns.

On the modern side of things, I think a Strider-ish looking slipjoint would be cool, but that would probably garner way too much negative attention.
 
I think when you post in the custom forum, you have to be willing to be blasted...just part of this forum and its members. I've seen many people post knives on this site that took a hell of a beating. I think it's good that you are doing your own designs and I think you did a very good job for your 3rd slipjoint. I don't think anyone's post was along the lines of the knife design is bad, do something else, etc. It was centered around F&F. I've seen many slipjoints with a modern twist, and I think there certainly is a market for them. But in a forum like this, where some of the best knives made by the best makers in the world are shown, the players in the forum tend to be more critical of flaws than the average knife nut. I have many knives from makers that were done in their first couple of years, and then knives that were done much later in their career. The differences are obvious. I would say that you should definitely keep trucking a long, refine your technique, and embrace the things people point out and work on them. Like I said, I have seen much, much harsher criticism in this forum...and the fact that STeven pointed out some positive aspects at the end of his post is a plus in my book ;)

Other than the things already mentioned above, with a slipjoint the goal should be to make the spine and lines look like one seamless piece of steel. I think that would help with the overall F&F. I would also consider making the spring longer and shortening the spine so that the two meet closer to the end of the bolster. Just my thoughts.

BTW...I like your tweaks to the traditional wharncliffe blade shape. Nice looking....
 
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ok guys i got it, i thought i was pretty clear that i didnt mind the "blasting" i love to improve its why we do stuff. i didnt intend this thread to become a debate on how to take advice. ill take it any way it comes.

on a more pertinent note, i reground the blade and fixed the secondary bevel. its now straight and true. i took the contour to 220 grit the original 120 was a bit rough. i sanded down the hardware to 600 grit to remove the factory lines. and i reprofiled the handles to get the hardware at roughly the same depths throughout the knife. and stan, i reground the swedge to be symetrical. ill post pics in the morning.

my failing in most things i do is that i try to get to the end result too fast. i get very excited about projects like these. and because of this, the f&f may sometimes suffer a bit. im working on it very hard............................... its supposed to be about the journey right ;)
 
Well, I for one can't wait to see the knife after you've fluffed and buffed it. I love slipjoints threw and threw, and I don't mind deviation from the traidtional patterns as long as they are executed well. But hey....I'm not one to talk. I envy you....you're doing what I wish I was doing and that's making knives. Keep after it and keep improving and I'll be calling you one of the designs and we will make a modern slippy that also holds true to its roots.
 
And one other thing to remember is that this is a custom forum, and not a custom collector's-grade forum. Frankly I enjoy seeing new makers show their work and have the chance to provde feedback. Makes me feel like I'm part of the process as one day I could be buying from those guys. His knife is a user knife....and to be quite honest, other than the secondary bevel, I think I could use the hell out of it. So I would consider it a very nice "user". From a collector's standpoint....that it is not. Can't wait to see your next knife and see if you took to heart the comments of these nothing-but-knife lovers in this forum.
 
Peter
That is much improved.Looks like your back spring is thicker than your blade causing the gap and that junction.Measure both and see if you need to thin the spring some.
Also on the next one when you mill relive the liners don't come all the way off on the nose.Leave about .070 there. It will help close up alot of that gap.
Stan
 
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Peter, I never saw the initial pictures, but I like the current ones. While several people have correctly stated that slippies are still running strong, personally I've never liked them. A plain swiss army knife was the most I could do, the traditional bone didn't work for me. Your knife has the smooth lines, modern materials, etc, that I think looks good.
Were you thinking of putting in a thumb notch, or do you open it by grasping the blade?
 
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