My Latest

[Laredo7mm]

Blade Length.........2.750 inches
Over All Length......6.625 inches
Scales..................African Blackwood and Amboyna Burl
Weight.................1.5 ounces

The same twist damascus (C1095 and 15N20) was used for the blade and back spacer. Heat treated back spacer with fire colored titanium liners.

I deleted the damascus bolsters and put an Amboyna Burl overlay on top of the African Blackwood scales. This gave a very clean look and reduced the weight from 2.5 ounces to 1.5 ounces. I don't know if I like the bolsterless look as much, but it is definitely slim and trim looking.

What for you think? I originally wanted more of a framing effect of the blackwood around the amboyna, but I need to make a few modifications to screw locations to get the framed look.

 

[jaegar]

That's some amazing work! Are the scales put on w/ Epoxy? or is it hidden all thread or something?? Very nice work!

 

[Laredo7mm]

thanks jaegar. The next version will look better with the framing effect worked out.

The blackwood is held to the liners with 5 (soon to be 4) screws and then the overlay is epoxied to that. The major draw back being any kind of repair is going to involve grinding off the inlay to get to the hidden screws. Most likely, if it ever has to be taken apart, new scales and overlays would have to be made.

 

[Walt2]

That is a great looking piece of work. It is obvious that you put a lot of time into that piece.

 

[rhrocker]

You're always coming up with something interesting Sean. I didn't know this was a folder until fig 3, and wasn't 100% sure then until the last frame. The clean look of no pins or pivots is really nice.

Also, I use 1095/15n20 a lot, and I just cannot seem to get the contrast you do. I use Kelly's steels. Do you have any tips or tricks?

 

[Laredo7mm]

I am still using steel that I bought from Uudaholm (sp) a few years ago. I have some of Kelly's 15N20, but haven't got into it yet, but I doubt it is a steel related issue.

I etch in ferric chloride and neutralize in regular white vinegar. I dilute my ferric 7 to 1 in distilled water. Basically I pour out one pint of the distilled water from my one gallon jug, and then pour in the pint of ferric. I hand sand upto 600 grit before etch, unless I am using nickel then I will hit it with 800 or 1200 grit before etch.

I wash my parts to be etched in warm soapy water, rinse, and then put them in the ferric. Seems like 30 minutes at 7 to 1 dilution has a nice depth to it. After the 30 minute in ferric, I rinse in warm water and then put them in vinegar for 5 minutes. After the vinegar, I rinse in as hot of water that I can stand and pat them dry. The heat helps the water to evaporate.

While in the vinegar I pre-heat the oven to 200° so when the pieces are pretty much dry, I put them in the oven for 20 minutes. I think the heat sets the oxides better. After the oven treatment, I go back to the same grit I used before etch and sand them lightly to shine up the 15N20.

The last step is to give it a coat of Briwax. It protects the steel and wood plus gives a nice shine to it which also helps to bring out the contrast on the damascus.

The only time I sand during etch is when I am doing cable. Then I will etch for 10 minutes and sand with 1200 grit and put back in the etch for 10 minutes. I repeat that process until I get the look I want. Then it goes in the vinegar and then the oven.

Hope that helps.