My mora clipper chipped!

S

SuzukiGS750EZ

Joined
Dec 30, 2008
Messages
4,567
Hey guys. Went out hunting with a buddy yesterday with air rifles and got a squirrel. I was showing him how to skin them, and somehow through the not so tedious or abusive task my clipper had 3 chips in it. Two towards the tang about 1/4" apart and one an inch or so up from there. Not humungous chips, but when i went to sharpen this morning i noticed it. The clipper is stainless steel. I've chipped knives before, but never a fixed blade. The hardest thing i cut was through the spine, and that was more of a push cut. I'll include some pictures later. Also, maybe my Buck 110 or custom would be better for this job? I'll post up some pictures later on, chime in!
 
I would think the Clipper is great for getting through the skin and meat....but I would pull out something a bit beefier for the bones.......(??)
 
I don't know if that's normal, i've never cut a squirrel's spine.

But a Mora Clipper does have a very thin edge, with that scandi grind...This can make it a bit more vulnerable to rolling or chipping.

I would expect any quality knife with traditional western edge geometry to handle that sort of thing with less damage. So yeh, give that Buck 110 a try.
 
IMG_0004.jpg

IMG_0002.jpg

IMG_0001.jpg
 
i have no ss moras so you may find this no help,

some of my carbon laminated were much harder than others and factory edge chipped more readily ; however after those initial chips were sharpened away there were no more sissy chips= the ones you dont expect
 
That's nothing to be concerned about on a user knife.Just sharpen it a couple times and it will be gone.
 
Minor problem. Sometimes the last 1-2mm of edge gets overheated on the buffer at the factory. I've had his problem with a Fiskars hatchet and a couple of Moras.
Once you sharpen the dents out it shouldn't happen again.

If it keeps happening you might want to put on a microbevel
 
I've got way worse looking spots on my ESEE 5... I don't worry about it. Meant to be used right?
 
Wow..that's not a chip...

Sheesh, my Benchmade 741 factory edge was far rougher than that. Even after a quick/light reprofiling I have that much grit in spots as remnants of it.
 
Just sharpen it out. Who knows what you accidently hit when you were skinning it... and perhaps the edge was overheated. But I wouldn't worry about it. Put a new edge on and you should be good to go.
 
Guys, i sharpened a lot of it out and then decided to come and complain here. Lol, they were big enough for me to see. But being that size now, still bothers me, but its better than it was.
 
R.H.Clark said:
That's nothing to be concerned about on a user knife.Just sharpen it a couple times and it will be gone.
Click to expand...

Agreed.

I was going to ask if you have sharpened the Mora a few times yet.

I find minor chipping is common on many of my user knives until I have sharpened them a few times to get past the factory edge and into some "virgin" blade steel.

This is regardless of of manufacture or steel type. I find very often manufactures edges are not very robust.

Kevin
 
Suzuki, those Scandi-ground edges will chip on bone and hard plastic (as others already said). The Mora blades are already pretty thin - add the scandi grind on top of that and you have a sharp(!) but relatively delicate edge. I've chipped more than one of my Moras.

When you get down to chopping through bone, even the finer rabbit bones, use a v-grind. That's what I do. Even a convex edge will roll on bone.
 
The factory edges on many of the Moras I have purchased are usually way too thin and wiry. I always put a micro convex edge bevel immediately on my new ones and they are just as sharp but hold up extremely well. I have given a few away as gifts after people use them and they can't believe how such a cheap knife can cut so well and hold that edge.

Those that say that after a few sharpenings the edge will hold up better are correct, especially if you stay away from the full scandi type edges.
 
If you're going to use the Mora for anything OTHER than wood work, the Mora company itself recommends putting a 20 degree micro bevel on the blade. The blades are ground at 12.5 degrees (maybe it was 15?), IIRC, which is really too fragile for hard use. There was a thread on here about that a while back.

If you check out enough info on scandinavian blades and their grinds, most serious users completely re-sharpen the knife before putting it to use to get to "good" steel, steel that hasn't been compromised by machine sharpening and possible overheating.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top