My Native 5 Carbon Fiber Scales Project (not as easy as i thought it'd be)

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Sep 11, 2013
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Hey everyone,

Not sure if this is the right forum but i decided it fit better in the Spyderco forum than in any other. This wont interest many, but I just wanted to share my first scale making experience. Boy was it a journey.

Recently, I got the Native 5 that i had been wanting for some time. It was my first REAL spyderco and i was completely blown away by the quality. It was incredibly well made and felt absolutely perfect in hand.

BUT, i couldnt help thinking that it would be so much better with a little carbon fiber on it. I guess its just the "grass is always greener" syndrome i seem to posses. i thought hey, maybe i could find someone who makes custom scales, they cant be THAT much can they? WRONG. Everyone i asked quoted their price at well over $130. So... seeing that i had just dropped $124 on the knife, i wasnt quite willing to pay more for just the scales. I decided instead while browsing the web that i would make them myself. I found a place in the UK that sold a small peice of carbon fiber that was the right thickness and large enough to give me enough room to make 2-3 sets. I thought to myself, why do people charge so much for making these things anyway, it cant be THAT hard can it? Wrong again. :D

When it arrived, i was extremely excited and immediately got to work. I first outlined the knife on the back of the carbon fiber sheet to give me a general idea of the shape, and proceeded to cut it out within a few millimeters of the drawn edge. Using a dremel it didnt take too long, but it was somewhat difficult to keep on the right path when following the curves of the handle. That was something i hadnt really taken into account: the fact that i would have to precisely follow all of the curves and bevels to make it look and feel right. Ill be honest, it was pretty intimidating, but i plowed on anyway. I was determined to make it work

Eventually, i had dremelled it to the point where it was within 2 millimeters of the lines i had scribed onto the material. Now came the sanding. Boy was that fun:eek:

It took me three days in total to make the scales, two and a half of which were spent sanding it to perfection. I used 100 grit for the bulk of the sanding, but quickly realised that that wouldnt cut it for the fine tuning. So i transitioned to 220 and 400 grit for the finer stuff and eventually worked my way down to around 1000 grit for polishing the edges. Then the last step was to drill the holes. I decided to go with the no pocket clip holes design to make it look cleaner and more gentlemanly. But man was it hard to get the holes for the screws just right. That alone took me a couple of hours due to how difficult it was trying to make sure i was drilling in the exact right spots and then having to taper and countersink each one properly so that the screw would sit flush. With only a drill press and a terrible harbor freight drill bit set, this was incredibly annoying. After a few minutes, the right sized drill bit broke and i had to go down a size and widen the holes with a thin round file. Yeah that took some time and is the reason why in the pics you might see that around the screws, it looks a bit off.

But finally, at some ridiculously late hour of the night, i stumbled out of the tool shed, ripped off my dust mask and held up my almost perfect scales triumphantly shouting "It's ALIVE!"

They sure werent pretty to any casual observer, but after working for 3 days on them and watching them slowly develop into the scales i wanted, they were the most beautiful things in the world. They were not quite lined up with the liners when i first tried them on, and were extremely uncomfortable due to the sharp corners i had forgotten to radius, but i still loved them :D
These pictures were of the original product, and youll notice MANY imperfections, but i have since fine tuned them much further and they now line up properly and feel great in hand (not perfect, but since theyre so unique and i made them myself, they are still way better that the original G10). They also unfortunately have zero traction, but are still ok since their intended use is for a somewhat dressy edc knife and something to take to places like Canada where i want to make sure the police dont give me trouble (places where i wouldnt want to take my 586)
Sorry for the long winded post. Most probably wont care about my story, but i figured why not share it anyway?

Here are some pics of the "rough draft" before finalizing. I dont have any pics of the final product but these will at least give you an idea. First time posting pics so they might not work

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I cant seem to add the pics. I dont know what im doing wrong. Im using Flickr and clicking insert image and putting in the URL
 
Too bad about the pictures, I'd like to see this. Good story tho sounds intense. I sometimes decide to do crazy projects that go haywire but I usually can reel it in.
 
Good story. People always wonder why some things cost so much until they do them. Car repairs, house stuff, gun work, knife work, etc.
Glad you tried it out and learned some stuff :) glad that you could smile and be happy when you where done. Hopefully you wore some good respiratory masks. Carbon fiber is tiny tiny dust that gets everywhere. Especially your lungs. Very dangerous stuff.

If you want more traction on the cf take it back down to 320 grit. It won't have that glass glossy look but it a more natural look with a little more grip.
 
Looks really nice. I think Spyderco is actually releasing the Native 5 with CF scales, and S110V, sometime early next year. But I'm sure you will appreciate this much more since you made them yourself. Good stuff!
 
Great story, I have been thinking about making my own scales for folders as right now I only make handles for fixed blades, but the one thing that I think would be the hardest is the screw holds. Making it to where the screws would sit flush and look good.
 
Thanks all!

I appreciate the comments and tips. I might try doing the 320 grit thing to get more traction because im actually starting to feel like theyre too slick, especially when wet or oily (like when using the knife for bacon prep)

And to AddictedToGear, yeah it definately was tricky for me to get right the first time. But if i had to do it again, it probably wouldnt be too hard. you just need the right tools for the job. A smaller drillbit for the actual hole, and a larger one to create the countersink and taper so that the screw goes in flush. Depending on the knife the sized of the two bits will differ greatly, but you can find the countersink bit size by taking the original scale and checking different bits to see if the very tip that tapers to a point fits inside (if that makes any sense). At least that was the case for mine

And ShepardCC, i was wondering what kind of mask i should have used? I just used a standard dust/painters mask. I hope it was enough and i dont get lung cancer or anything...:(
Just how bad is this stuff for you?
 
Well, i ended up trying it. I found 220 grit, 400 grit, 1000, grit, and 2000 grit. I started with the 400 because i though 220 would be too rough. However, i realized that it left the finish REALLY scratched and it was scratched in a really uneven ugly way. At this point i was cursing myself for even starting:grumpy:
In order to fix this, i tried moving up the grits to 1000. I spent a while on this one making sure to sand evenly along the entire surface of the scales. i managed to work out the worst of the scratches and get it pretty decent. Then i moved up to the 2000 to get rid of the last tiny eye sore scratches, making it smooth but in a really natural carbon fibery way, not slick. Before it had looked as if i was holding a carbon fiber but it was under a pane of glass and didnt feel right. The glossiness had taken away the utility feel of the native 5. This knife was meant to be a user and i found myself constantly cleaning the fingerprints off of the glossy scales. They also drew too much attention away from the blade and made it look uneven in a way, accentuating the unbalanced blade to handle ratio. Now it looks a million times better and finally feels complete.
The new finish also gives more traction while still making it look just as beautiful, if not more, than it originally did. I am very happy with the final product :D:thumbup:
 
funny, I bought a couple pieces of carbon fiber and have been planning to do the same thing. haven't got started yet though, thanks for the photos. I will probably get around to making mine some time after Christmas.
 
Well, I just finished my first knife with carbon fiber handles.

Cuts nice and straight on the table saw. Blade screamed the whole time. Black dust everwhere.

Sands nice on the belt sander. Black dust everywhere.

Hates trying to inlet the back for the tang. Almost ate up my forster bit. Black dust everywhere.

Broke down and bought a good respirator. Still sneezed black dust for 2 days.

Sanded by hand. Does well. And you know.

Finishes beatifully with gloss poly spray.

Feels good, looks good. Worth it, only if I get a better exhaust system soon.

YKMV.

Larry
Tinkerer
 
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Don't forget that carbon fiber is a fabric weave like kevlar so it might not all be scratches but the weave you are seeing. Also cf doesn't really soak up oil like g10/micarta.

3m makes a great half face and full face mask. I use the half face 3m mask. I have a few different filters for it and sometimes double up the filter. Some have the basic filter and some have a clear cover that pops onto of the basic filter that also holds a filter. It's hard to say which is best because none of them say specifically for cf. Just get the filters that work against tiny particles. You keep the mask and replace the filters.

It's kinda gross but a good way to tell how well the mask is working is if you blow your nose after you are done working and see how clear or dirty it is. I used to manage and work in a mechanics shop and I would always blow black snot out when I was home. Gross but your nose can only stop so much stuff, so the rest ends up in your lungs.

Cancer is caused by prolong exposure to something that is cancerous. Doing a few times isn't all that horrible. But I firmly believe if you can protect again something the first time you do it, why wait. Lungs and eyes.
 
Great job, those look fantastic! I want a set just like them for mine.
 
Checking up on the thread, thanks all who complimented since i visited last!

BTW, I still have a good chunk of CF left over. So if anyone wanted, it would be POSSIBLE for me to make another set and send them to you. Problem is it takes a while and i cant guarantee perfection. Im working with limited resources (dremel, files, sandpaper, and drill press) and even mine arent perfect (but id try my best to make them better the second time).
Another thing is if i send you the scales, you will most likely have a heck of a time with them because they were rediculously hard to put on the knife, for me anyway. however i attribute this mainly to how hard it is to put lockbacks back together because of the spring. I managed but just barely.
But hey, if youre interested, i would only charge somewhere in the neighborhood of 30 bucks and i need to get rid of this CF somehow so....any takers? LOL
 
I am interested to see how the scales look after your sanding efforts. I bought four 4"x4" sample squares for cheap a while back thinking I might try a similar project. I was worried about the glossy finish though and thought about using the rough side instead... In the end they've only see use as coasters, lol.
 
Can't post picks right now, but after sanding they look much better in my opinion. But you have to make sure not to take the grits too low. I would start somewhere between 400 and 800, then take it up as high as you'd like. I took mine to 2000 but 1000 is good enough Its important to go up in grits because i learned the hard way that 400 is too rough and doesnt make it look natural, it just makes it look scratched. Going to higher grits might seem counter intuitive for what you are trying to do, but trust me, its is nowhere near high enough to make it glossy again. The kind of polish it comes with was probably done with a many many thousand grit polishing compound. And make sure you spend a good amount of time sanding the entire surface evenly as well as in one direction, or else youll end up with ugly scratches. I refused to take the scales off to sand them because it would have been too hard to put back together, but left me with only one option: sanding around the screws. I highly advise against it. Looks very unprofessional and the only reason i managed to save it for the most part was because i spent a long time working up the grits to where the scratches are less visible. Still not as good as it could have been though. Now that i think about it, i would actually try starting in the higher grits that way you dont have any scratches to get out.

However, i would ask a professional before going ahead since i have VERY little experience. ShepardCC is very knowledgeable so i would start by talking to him


SIDE NOTE: another thing i found is that the more you sand, the more natural it looks because you are getting closer and closer to the actual fiber as opposed to seeing it through a relatively thick pane of resin
 
I give you props for putting so much time into them,
Im sure they look amazing and you can appreciate them even more.
I dont think ive ever had to spend more than a few hours. And even then it can be very tiresome..

I want to see some pics..
 
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