My new emerson knife routine.

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Feb 4, 2016
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Hey guys thought I'd post up what I do to all my NIB emersons once they come to me . I know some people just use them and let them break in and smooth out on their own ,but I have a little routine I follow. Feel free to add yours if you have one . I'm always eager to learn new things.

First thing I do with every emerson is break it down for a cleaning .I understand the grease in there for a reason,but what can I say I'm an instant gratification kind of guy.

So I'll break the knife down, you can leave the screws and standoffs in one side if you like but I take the whole knife down I'll explain why in a second.

Once the while knife is apart I usually take a degreaser,but I've used windex in the past with good results. I take the degreaser and and old rag or old tooth brush and clean the blade and the washers, and the liners getting all that factory grease out .

Once the factory grease is gone I wipe all the degreaser off and I'll apply tuff glide or break free clp to the stainless liner except where the washers go. I live in a humid environment so I like a thin film of inhibitor on stainless steel. The rust inhibitor I use on the liner may or may not be the same lube I use in the pivot this is personal preference.

Some of my emersons are a little squeaky when new so I lube the washers and blade as well as the detent ball and the track of the detent ball.

That's it really just a break down ,cleaning and a lubing . Some have problems centering their blades ,but I suggest reading the sticky on how to center your blade.

I've also found on a few of my emersons the detent will get a little lighter over time . If it bothers you all you really need to do is disassemble the knife . On the non locking side there is a detent ball and a cutout in the liner . You can take a small tool like a screwdriver and press LIGHTLY on the cutout to increase your detent . This also can effect your centering that's why insaid to do this lightly . Expect to take the knife apart and back together a couple of times before it's right where you want it .

There's a few other things I used to do or have done in the past ,but IMO it's not worth the time or the risk to your warranty to do the other things so right now I won't post them.
 
I'm kind of the opposite, I pull the knife out the box and it goes straight into my pocket. I don't take the knife apart unless it falls into mud, or some sort of fine dust. I do blow it out with an air compressor from time to time. My ETAK that is about 1.5 years and I've yet to disassemble it. It has smoothed out to my liking. I like the smooth, yet hydraulic opening over the lightning fast twitch style. I keep the pivot snug, just as it comes from the factory. I love them. ;)
I think it's cool that everyone has their own style and methodology to make their knives work best for them. That is what it's all about.
 
I don't think it's necessary but glad you enjoy doing it. It's not something I would recommend for first-time owners though.

As I just typed in another thread, I think the factory grease is pretty good. Any grittiness goes away with break-in for me. I feel like some of it saturates the washers eventually for long-term lube.

I don't try to turn them into fast thumb-flickers though. Maybe that's why so many insist on lubing them so much. For me lube just attracts far more lint and gunk, no matter how carefully applied.
 
When I buy a new one I open and close it until I get tired of it and put it away. Then days maybe weeks later I do that again. This cycle continues until it smooths out and the pivot works its way loose. I'll adjust the pivot to my liking and break it in some more. Once I'm satisfied with the smoothness I take it apart to clean. A few drops of snake oil it goes back together and gets centered. Then I check for lock rock. Once I'm satisfied with that it can go into the rotation. That's just me.
 
.....A few drops of snake oil it goes back together and gets centered....

Gotta ask: you talking about the real, original "Snake Oil" in the small bottle w/ the pointed spout, first marketed to skaters and shredders.....or were you just using an expression?

I've never seen the real stuff mentioned anywhere and I've used Snake Oil on things for over 20 years. It's the only non-dry lube I'll use on a folder, though very, very rarely... Very good stuff. Maybe it's just a west coast thing...
 
I do enjoy taking it down when I first get it . Now i let an older commander and an older cqc8 break in on their own and they had great action. Main reason I clean it out now though is a few times when they are new and gritty I've went to close the blade or open it and my finger slip off an d get cut . Where I work I get greasy and oily and I'm constantly in a hurry though.

I've had some people tell me to take the knife down and sand this and smooth that or polish this. I tried it one time but I value my warranty and the results weren't worth the work IMO.

Call me crazy too but the 2 knives I've let break on their own were bt . To me it seemed like the factory grease helped the coated blades a lot more than the stonewashed ones. That's just me but that cqc8 and commander had the smoothest action of damn near any folder I've handled .
 
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I don't think it's necessary but glad you enjoy doing it. It's not something I would recommend for first-time owners though.

As I just typed in another thread, I think the factory grease is pretty good. Any grittiness goes away with break-in for me. I feel like some of it saturates the washers eventually for long-term lube.

I don't try to turn them into fast thumb-flickers though. Maybe that's why so many insist on lubing them so much. For me lube just attracts far more lint and gunk, no matter how carefully applied.

Talking about lubes ,I've tried a lot of different ones on my emersons. I'm not really a thumb flicker. If I wanted it to be a flicker I'd just adjust the detent .

Back to lubes I've tried tuff glide ,nano oil, breakfree clp, ballistol as well as the run of the mill gun oils. So far I'm liking them with either fluoro grease or dry. On some the grease makes them feel like glass on others it gets gummy . The super roadhouse BT is the one that hates lube for me . Got tired of messing with it so I just cleaned it out and ran it dry and I'm impressed to be honest .
 
Gotta ask: you talking about the real, original "Snake Oil" in the small bottle w/ the pointed spout, first marketed to skaters and shredders.....or were you just using an expression?

I've never seen the real stuff mentioned anywhere and I've used Snake Oil on things for over 20 years. It's the only non-dry lube I'll use on a folder, though very, very rarely... Very good stuff. Maybe it's just a west coast thing...

No not real Just an expression for the miracle lube in vogue. If theres a real snake oil I'd buy a bottle it would look good on the shelf if all else failed haha.
 
No not real Just an expression for the miracle lube in vogue. If theres a real snake oil I'd buy a bottle it would look good on the shelf if all else failed haha.

OK, I just thought 'maybe'.....:)

Apparently it's not around anymore...just tried to Goog it and all I got was some body-rub.

Sure is good stuff and I'm down to half a bottle. Oh well.....if I make it strictly for knife lube now it'll last me out.

Thx, man.....
 
Talking about lubes ...... I've tried tuff glide ,nano oil, breakfree clp, ballistol as well as the run of the mill gun oils. So far I'm liking them with either fluoro grease or dry. On some the grease makes them feel like glass on others it gets gummy . The super roadhouse BT is the one that hates lube for me . Got tired of messing with it so I just cleaned it out and ran it dry and I'm impressed to be honest .

:thumbup: Yeah, for me dry's the best....I think you'll find it works fine.
 
What Charlie said. Put it in your pocket and take it out to use it.
I only had to take-down one Emerson because it was neglected and very gritty. I wiped all the parts down with an oil rag, put it back together and presto.
rolf
 
What Charlie said. Put it in your pocket and take it out to use it.
I only had to take-down one Emerson because it was neglected and very gritty. I wiped all the parts down with an oil rag, put it back together and presto.
rolf

Nothing special done to your commander? That video I sent you of the action on that super a few weeks back. I'll haft to check and make sure but I'm 95% sure it's got grease in the pivot .

What I do is not necessary by any means . I just enjoy trying to get my emersons as smooth or smoother than other knives . Especially if I know the knife may be in the hands of people not too fond of emersons just to show what they really are all about . Not preaching a gospel here at all. It's relaxing to me to be able to take my knives down and lube them and sharpen them. It's the little time during the day where the wife gets the kid and gives me a little bit of me time...The joys of family life...lol
 
Snake Oil:

A friend of mine up here in Alaska was telling me about the marvels of Snake Oil. Supposed to be really good for the wood on old Winchesters (of which I am a fan). He said it was available from a shop in Eagle River, AK. I haven't bought any yet but did let my Internet fingers do the walking:

http://www.oldwestsnakeoil.com/

--Larry
 
All I have done to my CQC-8 is a couple drops of oil on the pivot. Did the pencil trick on the lock also. This knife is about a month and a half old and has broke in perfect. Wish I would have bought one a long time ago.
 
My new Emerson routine is to put a coat of Frog Lube on the knifes metal parts, then work the blade open & closed about two hundred times. So that the blade travels the full arch from closed to open fully. About this time the knife open & closes very smoothly. Nothing else to do but use. I did drop my Emerson once in the sand in the desert, when I got home I put it wonder hot water, let it dry in the sun, and gave it a good luring with Frog Lube. Assembly, and disassembly is a little over kill in my world. Why if it is not nessessary, and everything work OK?
 
......What I do is not necessary by any means . I just enjoy trying to get my emersons as smooth or smoother than other knives . Especially if I know the knife may be in the hands of people not too fond of emersons just to show what they really are all about . Not preaching a gospel here at all. It's relaxing to me to be able to take my knives down and lube them and sharpen them. It's the little time during the day where the wife gets the kid and gives me a little bit of me time...The joys of family life...lol

And power to ya! It's what the hobby should be all about.
 
Snake Oil:

A friend of mine up here in Alaska was telling me about the marvels of Snake Oil. Supposed to be really good for the wood on old Winchesters (of which I am a fan). He said it was available from a shop in Eagle River, AK. I haven't bought any yet but did let my Internet fingers do the walking:

http://www.oldwestsnakeoil.com/

--Larry

That's a wood preservative oil, not the stuff I have....but it looks like it must work pretty well. I guess the lubricant is long gone.....
 
No special work was done on my Commander. She just broke in, all by herself.
I do put a drop of oil on all the screws when I get a new folder, tho.
 
i normally take them apart completely take the scales off, ill sand them down alittle bit (alittle too grippy for my liking. and plus i dont want to buy new jeans all the time) i actually bend that detent into the scale alittle more so it will wave easier. then ill clean the grease out and apply my froglube to it.
 
Only thing I do (provided knife shows up with blade relatively centered) is color the part of the blade that mates with the liner lock with a black sharpie marker - it completely eleminates the annoying liner lock sticking while the knife breaks in. Usually only have to do it once or twice and by the time it wears off - the lock is centered and doesn't stick anymore - seems to work better then using a pencil as I've seen other folks suggest.
 
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