My New Forge

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Apr 8, 2014
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I've spent many hours perusing these forums looking for information on building a forge for heat treating small knives. Below is a video of the results of that research. Many thanks to Stacy for all the information you have provided on the subject.

The forge consists of a 5 gal Harbor Freight air tank lined with one inch of Kaowool and about 3/8" of Satinite. I still need to put a coat on ITC-100 on over the Satinite. The forge floor is 1-1/4" firebrick. All the refractory materials along with the burner kit were obtained from High Temperature Tools & Refractory. The blower is a 134 CFM Dayton item #2C647 and everything is mounted on a Harbor Freight metal cart.

I've installed a ceramic shield for a TC that should be added soon and hope to in the future set it up with PID control. I still need to find a piece of 2" SS pipe to use as a muffle.

Next I'll be looking to build a quench tank. I'm open to any suggestions or feedback.

Thanks!
[video=youtube;I69Cx47tKkk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I69Cx47tKkk&list=UUCKK4BKTL4e623xaoZ9PDaw[/video]
 
Excellent job on the forge.
The patio blocks used for ballast was a great idea.
You can trim the extra ceramic sheath off a bit if needed. Cut it with a tile saw.


For simple and cheap muffles -
Go by a muffler shop and ask for some straight sections of old 2-3" muffler pipe. Cut it into pieces the length you want. They make fine muffles and can be tossed in the trash when they have been used a few times.

To take that cart up a notch, and keep it looking so pretty - place a piece of insboard on the top surface to set hot blades and tongs on.

You don't have your profile filled out - where in NC are you?
 
Yeah. the cinder blocks work well as ballast and it still leaves me room to store the propane tank when not in use. I'll be getting a piece of insboard for the top and checking out the local muffler shops. Thanks for the suggestions and all the info you have posted about forges. This one seems to be working great and It would not have been nearly as functional without your advise.

I'm in the southeast corner of NC in Wilmington. I spent quite a bit of time in your neck of the woods when I was stationed in Portsmouth while serving in the Coast Guard. Thanks again for all the info you post on this site, it's been a fantastic source for a fledgling knife maker.
 
I've been told there are existing refractory cements that endure flux beatings like a champ... Silicon Carbide? siC?

Don't know where you intend to go with the craft, but if pattern welded blades are on the horizon, I'd seriously consider them... Flux eats firebrick and kwool like a rabid gremlin eats a 747...


Also a little firebrick/angle slide door will help with heat retention....
 
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It takes a good while for the flux to eat the floor up unless the forge is used for damascus regularly.
Bubble alumina is the standard forge bottom coating for forges used in damascus. You build the forge as normal, and then put a good layer on the floor area. Some folks use fire brick or kiln shelving and just change it out when it gets bad. Some use a layer of kitty litter. Some castable and ramable refractories are also good in resistance.
 
I've been told there are existing refractory cements that endure flux beatings like a champ... Silicon Carbide? siC?

Don't know where you intend to go with the craft, but if pattern welded blades are on the horizon, I'd seriously consider them... Flux eats firebrick and kwool like a rabid gremlin eats a 747...


Also a little firebrick/angle slide door will help with heat retention....

Right now my intentions are just to use the forge for heat treating. Since the original post I've added a PID and TC to monitor heat and this build really works well. I can bring it up to temp and then adjust the fuel air ratio to maintain temperature within +/- a few degrees. If/when I start using it for pattern welding, I'll keep in mind flux damage to the floor and I might experiment with a firebrick door, but for right now I could not be happier with how it turned out. Thanks!
 
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