My NEW Kershaw Needs Work blade is pitting/rusting!?!?!?

T

thefed

Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
41
I've never seen this on a blade before, but its spreading each day. I got the needs work in the mail Tuesday, and only 5 days later, the entire blade, front and back, is covered with VERY VERY small rust dots (it appears). I cant seem to get them off, withut using something abbrasive.

Is this normal? I know some oil would help prevent it, but jeez...5 days, carried only one, and never even wet? Doesnt seem right
 
How about posting a few pictures?

How about calling Kershaw or emailing them and asking to send it in?

If what you say is true I would not say it is normal.
 
I think the Needs Work has a bead blasted finish. My Leek had one and it made it quite prone to rust as well. I kind of wonder why they'd put this finish on so many knives at the cost of corrosion resistence.

Anyways what I did is took some 1200 grit sandpaper and gave my blade a mirror polish. I'd suggest doing that, since I haven't seen rust on my blade since. Gives sweat and other corrosive liquids less places to settle I guess.
 
Lets see what the Kershaw guys have to say.
They'll be able to spot it better here.
 
Any type of metal paste or polish should work. Flitz or Peak works well. I have seen this on some of my bead blasted blades. Polish until the rust is gone, clean throughly, polish some more, clean and add a good lube and/or preservative. CLP works well and is usually easy to find.

Take pics before you do any work on it so the Kershaw people can see. If there is a problem they will want to know. They will make things right in any case.
 
As soon as the old lady gets home, i'll take some pics. An email has been sent to Kershaw as well

When you say "I uses some 122 grit and gave it a mirror finish"....that's all that needsa to be done? 1200 grit witll change this dull looking blade to mirror-like? Ive never tried, and would be scared to....in fear of messing it up too much...i cant imagine its a quick process?
 
theFed,
Check the manufacture date on the blade. It is printed in very small ink near the piviot point on the knife. That might help Kershaw. I really don't think a buyer should have to do anything special to avoid rust on the knife. I mean a knife is intended to cut various (moist and/or acidic) items.

I didn't have any spots on my knife - I've sent it back to Kershaw to have Speedsafe fixed. The warranty dept said that since it didn't lock open when I opened it manually it might have another problem.
 
Soliel,
Where can I find a larger size of your avatar - it looks as if there might be some nice knives there.
 
LOL,

Go Here:

http://boortz.com/

Click on Neal Nuze and pan down to the bottom of the page for redneck stuff.

And why do you guys all spell my name soliel? It's soleil, lol.
 
It doesn't take very long, maybe 10 - 20 minutes to really change how the blade looks. I didn't do the best job aesthetics-wise but it did what I wanted it to when it comes to the rust spots. Here's a photo I took of my Leek a while back, it's a little more polished up now. Doesn't look so scratched up in person.

663fytz.jpg


Here's another photo. Couldn't really get things focused. Near the thumbstud and scales you can still see the original finish, works good for comparison.

4z4e3d0.jpg
 
dextersp1 said:
theFed,
Check the manufacture date on the blade. It is printed in very small ink near the piviot point on the knife. That might help Kershaw. I really don't think a buyer should have to do anything special to avoid rust on the knife. I mean a knife is intended to cut various (moist and/or acidic) items.

I didn't have any spots on my knife - I've sent it back to Kershaw to have Speedsafe fixed. The warranty dept said that since it didn't lock open when I opened it manually it might have another problem.
Click to expand...


its all your fault i got this thing dex, per your reccommendation on the other site! thanks a lot! lol j/k



Kershaw's explanation is this:

Let him know that this is Spot rust.

light oiling of the blade will help.

13C26 steel has high carbon content - more oiling is necessary.

13C26 will hold it's edge much better than 440a or 420.

AND THIS:

Generally what we explain is to use a common house hold oil such as Break Free, 3 in 1, gun oil or sewing machine oil. Allow the oil to sit on the spots for at least an hour, use a very soft cloth to remove the excess oil and gentle rub off the spots. If this does not work you may need to use a buffing stick, which has three different surfaces to remove the spots. You are always welcome to send the knife to us.




So there ya go... I guess I have to deal with it
 
thefed said:
...I have to deal with it
Click to expand...
Well, there is the option to send the knife in. With the bead blast finish on 13C26, a very small portion of the blades can end up spotting, most do not. So if you don't want to deal with this one...
 
Thomas W said:
Well, there is the option to send the knife in. With the bead blast finish on 13C26, a very small portion of the blades can end up spotting, most do not. So if you don't want to deal with this one...
Click to expand...


For now I will try to wipe it as instructed and see where I get. If you say though that its only a small portion of the blades...do you mean like only a small % of knives end up spotting, or usually small parts of each individual blade will spot rust?


I'll let you know what happens...I tried wd-40 and no go...might try something else or find some 3 in 1
 
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