My new kydex mold (pics)

Andrew Lynch

Andrew Lynch

Joined
Feb 6, 2000
Messages
3,021
I've had this idea kicking around me head for a while now....and when knifekits made one similar to the one I had in mind I just decided to do it.

The basic problems with knifekit's version are these:

1.) Due to the fact that the mold halves initially meet parallel, upon compression they are no longer parallel.

2.) The compression arm is too short for high compression.

3.) The size is small, limiting possible sheaths.

4.) It's expensive!

My version stops or atleast improves these problems.

1.) At compression, the two halves are parallel (see pics).

2.) The compression arm is about 4.5 ft long (or so).

3.) The mold is now 12" X 6"

4.) My version costs much less....you can probably make it out of stuff hanging around the shop and spend a few bucks on parts you don't have.

Oh, forgot, mine will also "lock" closed.


Of course, my version is not perfect....time will tell on its long-term durability (no real problems yet)...it requires a shop table to screw into (must be reinforced)...it requires some tools and basic shop skills.....etc.

Bottom line, I tested it last night and the form is GREAT. I pic up everything on the knife (micarta texture, for example).

Still, I commend KK for doing more kydex products!

OK, enough details, here are the pics:

11.jpg


51.jpg


Sorry for pic quality...rushed.
 
Hello Andrew

That is really elegant. Do you mind if I make one like that later?

The hinges might be secured better if the part that attaches to the 2x2 on the bench is vertical. The force would then be trying to shear the screws instead of pulling them out of the block. Using a piece of angle iron with different holes would allow adjusting the hinge point up and down to acount for different thicknesses.

Thanks for sharing your ideas.

Phil
 
I think I see what you mean, but wouldn't that mean you would both have to attach the hinge to the 2X2 and the 2X2 to the workbench? Not really a problem, but trying to see if I'm seeing this right.

The 5/16" bolts that both attach the hinge to the 2X2 and the 2X2 to the workbench in my design are washered on the bottom to spread the load and thus the setup is very strong.

As far as different thicknesses, I'm sure this will work for anything up to like an inch high/thick. I see what you mean, however....and like it :D
 
I cant see the pics but i have seen the press online. I have also read the tutorial on making a kydex sheath. I am going to use the stand on top of it method when my stuff comes in. Does your rig work better or the same as the stand on it method.
 
Man, I forget how many hits these pages get....my bandwidth crapped out...they'll be up tomorrow until it craps out again :(

The "stand on it" method can only fully compress foam that is not so dense. I'm guessing to fully compress my mold it takes perhaps 800 lbs. Want another idea? Make a crude ramp and run the car wheel onto your mold. Works well, if inefficiently.
 
Looks great Andrew. Haven't played with Kydex yet, but can easily see how this would let you put a lot more force on the mold than just standing on it, and very easily at that. :) Good job, and thanks for sharing. Hope ya don't mind, but will hopefully steal the design when I get new workbench setup.
 
Looking forwards to seeing that when you get some bandwidth back...

I've got a 2 ton press (I can never remember which tonne is which - 2000kg in this case) that I'd like to see how I can use for moulding Kydex.

Peter
 
Andrew

I didn't realise that the bolts holding the 2x2 on also went through the hinges. You are right that I had envisioned using two sets of bolts.

The chain to lock the press closed is a great idea, especially with the large forces involved.

Thanks again for sharing your ideas.

Phil
 
Great idea! I usually set the kydex on my workseat, then clamp a piece of wood with foam down after the kydex has been heated. I too, will be stealing that great idea from you. :)

I don't know if this would work, but I wonder if you could do a "wall-mounted" version of your design. It looks like it works great, but takes up some space. If you mount one platform to a wall with a hinge at the bottom, the platform with the bar could be chained to a hook in the wall to create a 90-degree spot for the sheath. Once heated you could push the bar towards the wall and hook it up to something. And when it's not in use, it would be a pretty space free.

I have no idea if that makes any sense, or if it would work -- but I think I might try it.

Thanks for the great idea!
 
No problem guys. I've used so many of this forum's kydex ideas, I thought I'd try to add one myself.

A wall-mounted verson? Brilliant!! If you could reinforce the wall so it would be strong enough, it would work great. One small issue....when not in use I would not advise keeping the press clamped down. All that force, over time, might mess up the press (loosen bolts, screws, bend stuff, etc.). However, even if it was partially closed it would still take up a lot less space.

One thing to remember guys. Decide how much you want the foam to compress. I'm using 2" total of foam, and expect that to compress to 1". So, add that 1" to the thickness to the wood (or whatever) backing the foam and attach the hinge so, when clamped down, it will be that distance from the bottom of the mold (top of the workbench). This will make the mold sides parallel when clamped down, which is important. Hope that makes sense...
 
I've used a vice too...worked quite well. A vise that size sounds like it would work even better. This is just the best mold I've used so far. One advantage is has over a vice is that it is extremely quick to close.
 
In the interest of showing the community at large these nifty pics . . . here they are.

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Number 2: the CLOSE UP! (Somebody get this mold some makeup.)


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And finally, full compress mode. I likes it.

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Thanks Zal! You must have realized how distressing it was to read this discussion and not see the subject! :D This looks like just the ticket, I'm on the adoption track too. My current press only gets the (admitedly ample) weight of yours truly to press the kydex, and frankly I just don't get as crisp of definition as I'd like. This looks like my answer. Thanks for sharing!

Dave
 
Andrew,

You've amazed me yet again with your insuppressible curiousity and drive to really nail down the kydex sheathmaking process. The only thing I saw on your kydex press that concerns me is the handle sticking so far out. It might snag you as you walk by and that would hurt. :eek:

An alternative way to exert quite a bit of pressure would be to use an eccentric cam wheel (or ganged multiple wheels) with a shorter handle to put the downward pressure on the upper board of the jig. You could still chain the handle in place with the press in its fully-compressed mode, as you're doing with the longer handle, to maintain pressure on the sheath while you take a well-deserved break. ;)

Below is a link to a graphic (approx 150kb) showing how it would work. In the picture, I offset the pivot point of the eccentric wheel A LOT to really emphsize the fact that the pivot point is not at the centerpoint of the wheel. In reality, you wouldn't offset the pivot point of the cam that far because the further off of center the pivot point is located (if in the wrong direction) the less the cam multiplies the amount of force you're applying to the handle. Please feel free to email me if it's not clear or if you've any questions.
http://www.oz.net/~malinski/kydex_press.jpg

Again, kudos on the ingenuity of your press,
-- Greg --
 
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