- Joined
- May 9, 2010
- Messages
- 154
Its time to join the RAT pack!!
I wanted to describe my experience with my new RC-6.
Ive researched knives, mostly by lurking on blade and survival forums and google searching different knives that I found appealing, for hours and hours.
Through these wondrous hours, I found many, many knives; in fact, too many knives, a paralyzingly large amount of them. I knew that my final choice, if at all possible, would be extremely difficult to make.
Some of the knives that I am most interested in are: The Fallkniven S1 and A1 (Already have an F1 and love it), Bark River Bravo 1, and the RAT RC-4 and RC-6.
Since I already have an F1, a short (3.8), VG-10 Laminate Stainless Steel knife, I decided that my next knife should have a larger high carbon blade.
Due to the great reviews, solid 1095 high carbon steel, size (6.5 including choil), the fact that its made in the USA, and the amazing warranty, the ESEE RC-6 seemed to be the perfect choice.
So, I purchased the knife from knivesupply.com. The service was satisfactory and the prices were decent, but shipping took 10 days. Or should I say processing took 7 days, the actual shipping took 3.
Any who, the knife arrived and I immediately had to test it.
I began by chopping a 1.5 branch off a large downed tree branch. Still alive and green, the maple branch was dense and tough (How does it compare to other trees in terms of toughness?? Im not really sure. I lack knowledge in the tree department). The full flat grind and relative heftiness (11.8oz) allowed me to hack through the branch fairly easily. I found the grip comfortable even despite the many negative things Ive heard about the micarta slabs being too thick and blocky. The choil, too, was comfortable and useful during finer carving.
In my humble opinion, chopping most things over that size (~1.5-2) is not necessary with a knife. Possibly for making a shelter, but for the majority of the time, i.e. utility work, making feather sticks, small chopping etc. doesnt necessitate chopping huge hunks of tree. And if it did, Id probably use a hatchet.
From what I can tell after chopping a few decent sized branches and whittling a few spears (or what my girlfriend calls marsh mellow sticks), I can say that the knife has performed well. (I know Im probably babying it so far, though.)
Out of curiosity, I batoned through wood that is 4-5 in thickness. I was very impressed by this knifes performance. It truly diced through this wood without any problem whatsoever. Very little wear on the coating, and no edge damage at all.
I must say, I am hopelessly addicted to ESEE knives. The next one on my list is the Izula, but I WANT an RC4 (even though I have a Fallkniven f1) and an RC5.
Once dull, How can I give this knife a convex edge? Ive read in many places about people putting convex edges to their knives and Im impressed by the cutting performance of the convex F1 blade.
Thanks for listening!
I wanted to describe my experience with my new RC-6.
Ive researched knives, mostly by lurking on blade and survival forums and google searching different knives that I found appealing, for hours and hours.
Through these wondrous hours, I found many, many knives; in fact, too many knives, a paralyzingly large amount of them. I knew that my final choice, if at all possible, would be extremely difficult to make.
Some of the knives that I am most interested in are: The Fallkniven S1 and A1 (Already have an F1 and love it), Bark River Bravo 1, and the RAT RC-4 and RC-6.
Since I already have an F1, a short (3.8), VG-10 Laminate Stainless Steel knife, I decided that my next knife should have a larger high carbon blade.
Due to the great reviews, solid 1095 high carbon steel, size (6.5 including choil), the fact that its made in the USA, and the amazing warranty, the ESEE RC-6 seemed to be the perfect choice.
So, I purchased the knife from knivesupply.com. The service was satisfactory and the prices were decent, but shipping took 10 days. Or should I say processing took 7 days, the actual shipping took 3.
Any who, the knife arrived and I immediately had to test it.
I began by chopping a 1.5 branch off a large downed tree branch. Still alive and green, the maple branch was dense and tough (How does it compare to other trees in terms of toughness?? Im not really sure. I lack knowledge in the tree department). The full flat grind and relative heftiness (11.8oz) allowed me to hack through the branch fairly easily. I found the grip comfortable even despite the many negative things Ive heard about the micarta slabs being too thick and blocky. The choil, too, was comfortable and useful during finer carving.
In my humble opinion, chopping most things over that size (~1.5-2) is not necessary with a knife. Possibly for making a shelter, but for the majority of the time, i.e. utility work, making feather sticks, small chopping etc. doesnt necessitate chopping huge hunks of tree. And if it did, Id probably use a hatchet.
From what I can tell after chopping a few decent sized branches and whittling a few spears (or what my girlfriend calls marsh mellow sticks), I can say that the knife has performed well. (I know Im probably babying it so far, though.)
Out of curiosity, I batoned through wood that is 4-5 in thickness. I was very impressed by this knifes performance. It truly diced through this wood without any problem whatsoever. Very little wear on the coating, and no edge damage at all.
I must say, I am hopelessly addicted to ESEE knives. The next one on my list is the Izula, but I WANT an RC4 (even though I have a Fallkniven f1) and an RC5.
Once dull, How can I give this knife a convex edge? Ive read in many places about people putting convex edges to their knives and Im impressed by the cutting performance of the convex F1 blade.
Thanks for listening!
