My new sharpmaker :-(

N

njb242

Joined
Oct 29, 2013
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28
Just received my Sharpmaker today (along with my mil-spec HEST/F :D), and figured I'd sharpen some of my old knives. I had a kershaw blur and dimension in need of some TLC. Unfortunately, both knives had too much of a shoulder to really benefit from the sharpmaker (Additionally the bevel on both knives seemed very uneven and only one side of the edge would make contact with the stones; is this common?). I tried experimenting with some 180 grit sandpaper to bring down the shoulder on the dimension. After a few minutes, I was confident that I could now get the blade sharp. Back on the 30 degree sharpmaker with some sharpie, and disappointment. The left side of the blade was hitting the stone at the edge, but the right side was still rubbing the bevel. I brought the sandpaper back a couple of more times, and it seems regardless of how much i take off, I can't get rid of enough shoulder for the sharpmaker to work. Please help me!
 
What do you mean by "brought the sandpaper back"?

It may simply be a matter of patience. Patience was probably my biggest obstacle when I first started, and sometimes remains a problem. I combat this by taking long breaks.

If the paper is working continue using it until you form a burr across the length of the edge. It will only slow you down to be going back and forth between grits. Use a sharpie, good lighting and a loupe if you have one to check progress.

I have great eyesight, but I find a loupe to be an indispensable part of my kit.
 
Meaning I tried to take off more from that side, multiple times but could never seem to get enough. Will have to revisit tomorrow. Just confused me that I was able to get one side done but not the other. If the sharpmaker is hitting above the edge, that can only mean that the shoulder is too wide, correct? So when I try to use the 30 degree setting and it hits the shoulder, that means that the shoulder must be brought down until it is les than 30 degrees (15/side), correct?
 
What Krav said: Try the 40 degree setting. You might spend all next week trying to get a thick knife down to 30 degrees. The Sharpmaker isn't good at reprofiling/changing angles.

Good sharpening,
Dave
 
Do you have the diamond stones for the SM? I'd recommend those for all reprofiling endeavors on the Sharpmaker at least.
 
Think of the cross-section of your blade, viewed looking directly into the tip. In your situation, the side with the more obtuse angle will likely be 'thicker' in reference to the centerline (drawn straight down, from center of the spine to the edge's apex). The 'thicker' side with the more obtuse angle, and therefore with the narrowest bevel, will need to have a LOT more metal taken off at the shoulder, until the bevel intersects the apex. As this happens, the bevel will widen. Compare to attempting to grind down & flatten one corner of your Sharpmaker's rod, and watching the contact area SLOWLY widen; this is what happens as you grind the shoulder of the blade's bevel. As the bevel widens, the contact surface area of steel under the hone on this side will expand exponentially, and the sharpening will slow dramatically as it expands. This means progress towards the apex, from this side, will slow dramatically as well. Combine this with the rods (and the sandpaper) loading up with swarf, and it's additionally slower.

In a nutshell, the only thing that can be done is to keep grinding until it's apexed from the 'thick' side. Like Strigamort mentioned, it's about patience. The rods by themselves likely won't get it done, and if the sandpaper is also slowing down, either a coarser grit is needed, or something like a coarse diamond hone could be used alongside the rod to speed things up. OR, a larger (longer, wider) piece of sandpaper could be used against a HARD backing like glass, and jigged to hold at the same angle. The combination of larger surface area and the harder backing will make the sandpaper work much faster.


David
 
Doesn't it seem like Spyderco could easily improve on this system? It's been around forever, it seems like they could make an adjustable by degree rod angle so that a person, not interested in a reprofile job (because we already know that it sucks at that), could adjust it for all of their knives. The system is endorsed by, not only Spyderco, but by CRK and Cold Steel, maybe others too. None of my Sebbies or Cold Steel would have been a good fit on the thing from what I can tell.

Sorry, didn't mean to rant and go off topic, I just see the SM as extremely limited, especially without user "mods" (that is, tilting their knife or clipping sandpaper to the rods).
 
Spyderco could totally make a stone sized sandpaper clamp, or release some different stones. Maybe a partnership with DMT for more and better stones.
 
I love the sharpmaker for maintaining an edge, but IMHO if the sm is your primary sharpening tool then a coarse or x-coarse diamond stone is indispensable for the type of work you are doing now. Once you get the bevel set and apexed, the sm will work like a dream. Even the small little coarse/extra coarse dmt diafold would completely change your experience right now.
 
You can get a set of Mold Master stones that are very low grit and either clamp or rubberband them to the Sharpmaker stones to do some reprofiling! They are alot cheaper than the diamonds and come in very low grits.

I bought some 240 and 320 grit ones (but they have lower grit ones), in pairs so I can put one on each sharpmaker stone but havent tried them out yet as my knives dont get much use so they dont get that dull where I need them yet. :)
 
sir_mike said:
You can get a set of Mold Master stones that are very low grit and either clamp or rubberband them to the Sharpmaker stones to do some reprofiling! They are alot cheaper than the diamonds and come in very low grits.

I bought some 240 and 320 grit ones (but they have lower grit ones), in pairs so I can put one on each sharpmaker stone but havent tried them out yet as my knives dont get much use so they dont get that dull where I need them yet. :)
Click to expand...

Just curious...which size of the mold master stones do you use for this? Which grit you use for your re profiling. Anyone else used these?
 
Surfingringo said:
Just curious...which size of the mold master stones do you use for this? Which grit you use for your re profiling. Anyone else used these?
Click to expand...

Seeing I dont know diddly about sharpening, I bought two different sizes and grits. I went with two 1x1/4x6 in 320 grit and two 1x1/2x6 in 240 grit.

I picked the one inch wide ones just in case putting on the sharpmaker doesnt work for me and them being one inch wide, it is possible to free hand with them, I hope! :D
 
Good news guys! I was able to reprofile my blur and dimension using the sandpaper. It wasn't the prettiest thing, but they both have wicked edges. I just started another thread about re-profiling my DPX HEST with the SLEIPNER. Do you think these mold master stones will work for that? What do they run?
 
Strigamort said:
Doesn't it seem like Spyderco could easily improve on this system? It's been around forever, it seems like they could make an adjustable by degree rod angle so that a person, not interested in a reprofile job (because we already know that it sucks at that), could adjust it for all of their knives. The system is endorsed by, not only Spyderco, but by CRK and Cold Steel, maybe others too. None of my Sebbies or Cold Steel would have been a good fit on the thing from what I can tell.

Sorry, didn't mean to rant and go off topic, I just see the SM as extremely limited, especially without user "mods" (that is, tilting their knife or clipping sandpaper to the rods).
Click to expand...

I'd totally go for an adjustable model, say 10* or 15* up to 30* per side, adjustable by degree. I'd gladly pay twice the price of a regular SM, too. :thumbup:
 
I use the congress stones to reprofile on the sm. I dont care for the mold masters....I like ghe res cut myself. Dont need water/oil .

Why spyderco has a diamond rod ....but hasnt made a more aggressive rod confuses me.....until then I keep using the res cuts.
 
jbmonkey said:
I use the congress stones to reprofile on the sm. I dont care for the mold masters....I like ghe res cut myself. Dont need water/oil .

Why spyderco has a diamond rod ....but hasnt made a more aggressive rod confuses me.....until then I keep using the res cuts.
Click to expand...

I see the res-cut stones are offered in a triangular rod. Ny idea if they will fit in the sharpmaker?
 
jbmonkey said:
I use the congress stones to reprofile on the sm. I dont care for the mold masters....I like ghe res cut myself. Dont need water/oil .

Why spyderco has a diamond rod ....but hasnt made a more aggressive rod confuses me.....until then I keep using the res cuts.
Click to expand...

Ha, when I was asking or reading reviews, I was told to go with the mold masters and stay away from the congress ones. I guess it just depends on who you are chatting with or what thread you read! LOL
 
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