My new sword design Ok Ok No snickering outloud!

R

RobertHankins

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Jun 10, 2001
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I loosely based this prototype on a 13th century Italian "Fachion" sp.
I have found the best way to work thru a new design is by grinding and assembling a piece in wood first.

I would really appreciate some "constructive" input on the Handle and Guard design. I have a piece of 3/16" ATS34 with this swords name on it.
So Ideas for handle and fittings material are welcome also. I plan on doing a Patina on the blade and maybe antiqueing the fittings.
Handle on one of the two I make will be Fluted.
Thanks for your help :D
 

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I like the design Robert. I will assume it is a user, so the only suggestion I could make would be to make the knucklebow fully enclose the hand. This will allow a much better grip. Nice design!:)
 
Awesome shape Robert. It looks like a lot of blade to have such a straight handle. Maybe flair and drop the butt a bit. Have the guard follow the curve of the handle, IMHO.

Hugh
 
I'm never been partial to SS swords. True, that falchion could work in SS, it's more a HUGE knife than a sword... I'd go with 5160 or some 10XX steel, though, and save the ATS34 for knives.
Not that I'm an expert, but that would be my choice.
 
I like the blade, but the handle needs something like more flare to the butt or the full "D" guard. I cant wait to see the final product.
 
I like it!

My only suggestion would be to make it less than a full flat grind...Not grinding it all the way to the top would add a nice 3D definition...

Just my 2 cents...

Running Dog
 
Very nice Robert. I'm glad I'm not the only one who makes wood prototypes first. I think it's a great way to check balance and feel before committing to steel.

I agree with Running Dog- a deep, long grind; but leave some spine. Also, do cutlesses ever have a clip or false edge? A partial sharp top edge might be cool.
 
That is an attractive design.

One of the things knife people negelect when it comes to swords is the need for distal tapering.

I recall someone wrote up a report of a falchion somewhere being 6mm thick at the base and tapering to 2mm near the tip. I've seen Chinese daos with similar blade shape to yours taper from 5/16" to 1/8".

Distal tapering is a lot of work, but it's the difference between a fast sword and a vibration-prone clunker.
 
That's a great look sword, and it gives me an idea... I've never thought about making a wooden knife. I know that's not what you were trying to do here, but I may just make one.

I would like to make something for my 5 year old nephew, but I was not about to make him a real knife. But a wooden knife with a rounded off edge would be great for him.

Thanks for the idea. -chris
 
Love the design! My comments are similar to the others, drop the butt of the handle down for a more secure grip and add a cutting edge on the back to the swell. Where I differ is I like the full flat grind with the distal taper, makes the sword quicker. To offset the full flat grind you could scrape a couple of fullers down each side. Not only would this further lighten the blade it would look extremely cool! Just my two cents worth.

Craig
 
i like it the way it is! :cool:i would have to play with it to see about the angle of grip or the guard. but since you are the one making it! go for it!! . my 2 cent's add on is to make the end of the guard strong enought to impact/slash with.:eek:
 
Very cool looking piece. Very very cool piece!

Some suggestions
<ul>
<li>Ditch the ATS. Paul will also treat A2 and 3V both of which I think would be a better sword. I am currently doing a whole heck of alot of gladius out of A2.
<li>Add some flare to the pomel area. That straight handle will be shooting straight out of your hand.
<li>Match the contours of the guard to the contours of the handle.

I hope your asking what that thing is worth:).
 
I like the pattern a lot. However, I agree with R.W. Clark about the handle. A gentle downward curve to match the upward curve of the blade would make it more user friendly and attractive too. Look around for pics of old Chinese swords. They will help with the handle shape.

Oh Yeah, Keep searching for someone that will heat treat one out of 5160 for you.
 
Robert, I like that a lot. I'm in the "Flat grind/Distal taper" camp. I think the wooden sword is cool, can't wait to see the real thing. I think you're in for a lot of grinding! :D This is great.

I haven't used Paul Bos, does he have a length limit? Website?

Dave
 
Mr Larsen,
I have met you several times at local gun shows.
Good to hear from ya!
Pauls length limit is 32 or 33" OAL
PaulBos@buckknives.com
You are better off calling him @ (619)-445-4740 please call after 5_00 PM Pacific standard time.
 
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