My new Ti Millie and PM2! First impressions!

[Kwon Kwang]

So, my first knife with titanium, the Ti Millie, and my new PM2 came in today, along witha ppurchaseII've procrastinated for too long, the Sharpmaker.

This Millie is the original version with a plastic(?) backspacer and no steel insert. I bought it used at $215 shipped. I bought it primarily as an educational experience, and learn I did. Firstly, I learned not to buy Ti frame locks used! Mine has a little play in all directions, and I don't have the Torx bit needed to adjust it. Regardless, I'm carrying it today to see if I like it.
The second thing I learned is that I don't see what the big deal with titanium is. I actually think I prefer steel or aluminum. I mean, it's nice, but it really doesn't seem like anything special.
The lockup feels rickety when I push up in the jimped thumb ramp. Again, I think this is less due to Spyderco's QC and more due to user error for the previous owner, who said that the lockup was "solid", and that the knife was "never carried or used".
The third thing I learned is, this is a big knife. A lot bigger than I thought....and I like it. I'll need to talk to the seller about his terminology, however.

The Paramilitary 2 came with a little side to side wiggle out of box. Tightened that pivot up a little, and now it's rock solid. I absolutely adore this knife. It cuts like it's sailing through a cloud. I have zero complaints. It feels great, it cuts great, it was definitely worth the $180 shipped I spent on it!

I haven't tried the Sharpmaker yet. I'll have to stay NIB until I get home from work.

All in all I'm pleased with my purchases, and Mr. Glesser can expect to receive more of my business.

 

[jalcon]

So, my first knife with titanium, the Ti Millie, and my new PM2 came in today, along witha ppurchaseII've procrastinated for too long, the Sharpmaker.

This Millie is the original version with a plastic(?) backspacer and no steel insert. I bought it used at $215 shipped. I bought it primarily as an educational experience, and learn I did. Firstly, I learned not to buy Ti frame locks used! Mine has a little play in all directions, and I don't have the Torx bit needed to adjust it. Regardless, I'm carrying it today to see if I like it.
The second thing I learned is that I don't see what the big deal with titanium is. I actually think I prefer steel or aluminum. I mean, it's nice, but it really doesn't seem like anything special.
The lockup feels rickety when I push up in the jimped thumb ramp. Again, I think this is less due to Spyderco's QC and more due to user error for the previous owner, who said that the lockup was "solid", and that the knife was "never carried or used".
The third thing I learned is, this is a big knife. A lot bigger than I thought....and I like it. I'll need to talk to the seller about his terminology, however.

The Paramilitary 2 came with a little side to side wiggle out of box. Tightened that pivot up a little, and now it's rock solid. I absolutely adore this knife. It cuts like it's sailing through a cloud. I have zero complaints. It feels great, it cuts great, it was definitely worth the $180 shipped I spent on it!

I haven't tried the Sharpmaker yet. I'll have to stay NIB until I get home from work.

All in all I'm pleased with my purchases, and Mr. Glesser can expect to receive more of my business.

When tightening up the pivot to eliminate on play on the PM2, did you find that the blade is harder to happen now? Just curious.

 

[Kwon Kwang]

When tightening up the pivot to eliminate on play on the PM2, did you find that the blade is harder to happen now? Just curious.

Not really. Still nice and smooth. I love the bushing system.

 

[powernoodle]

When tightening up the pivot to eliminate on play on the PM2, did you find that the blade is harder to happen now?

Bushings aside, there is a magical sweet spot between too loose and too tight. If an angel sneezes 2000 miles away, it can throw it off in one direction or the other. But once you find it and loc-tite the pivot pin in place, its that perfect spot where it flicks open just right but has zero blade play. I tend to adjust mine so they are just a shade loose, as a micron or two of side to side play doesn't bother me. Bushing type pivots can make that a lot easier.

Kwon, I hear you on the titanium. I like it fine, but it doesn't make my leg tingle.

 

[jalcon]

Bushings aside, there is a magical sweet spot between too loose and too tight. If an angel sneezes 2000 miles away, it can throw it off in one direction or the other. But once you find it and loc-tite the pivot pin in place, its that perfect spot where it flicks open just right but has zero blade play. I tend to adjust mine so they are just a shade loose, as a micron or two of side to side play doesn't bother me. Bushing type pivots can make that a lot easier.

Kwon, I hear you on the titanium. I like it fine, but it doesn't make my leg tingle.

Haha you are so right about that "perfect spot"...I have mine dialed in good now to a point where it is smooth as butter and has no play at all. To do this, I originally tightened it just enough so that there was no play. Upon doing this, the blade did become too stiff for my liking. Anyway, after using it for a few days (and I mean using it, not just opening and closing it a thousand times) it was smooth and still no play. Def recommend loctite like you said, because otherwise you can put the knife down, and a butterfly will land in your garden, and you'll have a slight bit of play.

 

[gooeytek]

For framelocks, titanium is better suited for the purpose than stainless (too heavy, and cutouts tend to need a bigger gap) and aluminum (too soft and no tensile strength).

That said, I love my titanium stuff. Congrats on your new acquisitions. Any bladeplay on a Ti military is unacceptable though, I would get back in touch with the seller.

 

[Kwon Kwang]

For framelocks, titanium is better suited for the purpose than stainless (too heavy, and cutouts tend to need a bigger gap) and aluminum (too soft and no tensile strength).

That said, I love my titanium stuff. Congrats on your new acquisitions. Any bladeplay on a Ti military is unacceptable though, I would get back in touch with the seller.

Thanks for the info.

I did get in touch with them, and they offered to refund me (minus shipping) if I sent it back. I think I'm just going to get a T10 bit and see how that works.

 

[benchwarmer380]

All you need now is a diamond rod and the ultra fine rods for the Sharpmaker and you're set. Nice pick ups by the way!

 

[jalcon]

All you need now is a diamond rod and the ultra fine rods for the Sharpmaker and you're set. Nice pick ups by the way!

I don't really find the diamond necessary IMO, and instead of the ultra fine rods, buy a nice strop and some green compound!

just sayin

 

[JNewell]

I've typed this a few dozen times, but for the PM2, do the following (at your own risk, you may void your warranty). Make sure you have Torx drivers that are properly sized and hardened or you will foul up the screws and the knife may be going back to Golden for repair at your expense.

Clean the screw threads on both sides of the pivot and stop pin. If your mechanical aptitude and/or confidence are not high, do them one at a time with the other three screws in the knife.

Apply a *small* amount of *blue* Loctite. Read this line again.

Working from both sides, tighten the pivot screws until you get the blade lateral play and blade action the way you want it - do this with the stop pin screws VERY loose.

Now gently tighten the stop pin screws, again working gradually from both sides, until they are as snug as possible without changing the blade action.

Put the knife aside overnight to let the Loctite cure.

 

[Kwon Kwang]

Tried the Sharpmaker for the first time today. I took two dull knives that could barely cut anymore and brought them to hair shaving sharpness...and I suck at sharpening! I am extremely impressed! I am increasingly pleased with every Spyderco product I purchase. Spyderco can consider me a loyal customer. I'm definitely coming back for more.

I've typed this a few dozen times, but for the PM2, do the following (at your own risk, you may void your warranty). Make sure you have Torx drivers that are properly sized and hardened or you will foul up the screws and the knife may be going back to Golden for repair at your expense.

Clean the screw threads on both sides of the pivot and stop pin. If your mechanical aptitude and/or confidence are not high, do them one at a time with the other three screws in the knife.

Apply a *small* amount of *blue* Loctite. Read this line again.

Working from both sides, tighten the pivot screws until you get the blade lateral play and blade action the way you want it - do this with the stop pin screws VERY loose.

Now gently tighten the stop pin screws, again working gradually from both sides, until they are as snug as possible without changing the blade action.

Put the knife aside overnight to let the Loctite cure.

I appreciate that, but I'd rather not mess with the warranty if I don't have to.

 

[jalcon]

Tried the Sharpmaker for the first time today. I took two dull knives that could barely cut anymore and brought them to hair shaving sharpness...and I suck at sharpening! I am extremely impressed! I am increasingly pleased with every Spyderco product I purchase. Spyderco can consider me a loyal customer. I'm definitely coming back for more.


I appreciate that, but I'd rather not mess with the warranty if I don't have to.

Actually nothing he suggested will mess with the warranty. Taking apart the knife will void the warranty, however.

 

[benchwarmer380]

I don't really find the diamond necessary IMO, and instead of the ultra fine rods, buy a nice strop and some green compound!

just sayin

Whatever works!

I like the diamond rod to set the knives at the proper angle for Sharpmaker use. Never had to do that with a Spyderco though.

 

[jalcon]

Whatever works!

I like the diamond rod to set the knives at the proper angle for Sharpmaker use. Never had to do that with a Spyderco though.

Interesting. Yeah I honestly haven't tried to sharpen anything but a Spyderco on it yet, haha. Do the diamond rod's just expedite the process?

 

[JNewell]

Actually nothing he suggested will mess with the warranty. Taking apart the knife will void the warranty, however.

Quite a few people manage to strip or break fasteners without ever getting the knife apart.

 

[Kwon Kwang]

Quite a few people manage to strip or break fasteners without ever getting the knife apart.

Yes, that's what I'm most afraid of. It's alright, my lovely Para is rock solid.

My Ti Millie is another story, but I'll go to the hardware store tomorrow and see if I can't find a cheap T10 driver. I'm sure I can fix her right up, she's growing on me quite quickly.

 

[benchwarmer380]

Interesting. Yeah I honestly haven't tried to sharpen anything but a Spyderco on it yet, haha. Do the diamond rod's just expedite the process?

Yes. They remove material at a noticeably quicker pace than the medium rods. Helps with extremely dull knives or when reprofiling. My Spydercos probably won't see it for a while, but my other knives, some with different angles in place or uneven bevels, will have a date set soon. Now I just need to get better with the damn thing.

OP I use the Husky 8in1 torx set. Maybe not the best but its cheap and has all the bits one will generally need. I have heard that the bits run soft but have only had problems with one knife model. Two different Kershaw Crown pocket clips have chewed up the T6. Those suckers felt welded in or something. Anyways, if you only use it a couple of times a week it should last.

 

[Kwon Kwang]

Yes. They remove material at a noticeably quicker pace than the medium rods. Helps with extremely dull knives or when reprofiling. My Spydercos probably won't see it for a while, but my other knives, some with different angles in place or uneven bevels, will have a date set soon. Now I just need to get better with the damn thing.

OP I use the Husky 8in1 torx set. Maybe not the best but its cheap and has all the bits one will generally need. I have heard that the bits run soft but have only had problems with one knife model. Two different Kershaw Crown pocket clips have chewed up the T6. Those suckers felt welded in or something. Anyways, if you only use it a couple of times a week it should last.

Thanks for the tip! Just bought one, along with a Stanley hex key set for some of my other knives.

 

[JNewell]

Yes. They remove material at a noticeably quicker pace than the medium rods. Helps with extremely dull knives or when reprofiling. My Spydercos probably won't see it for a while, but my other knives, some with different angles in place or uneven bevels, will have a date set soon. Now I just need to get better with the damn thing.

OP I use the Husky 8in1 torx set. Maybe not the best but its cheap and has all the bits one will generally need. I have heard that the bits run soft but have only had problems with one knife model. Two different Kershaw Crown pocket clips have chewed up the T6. Those suckers felt welded in or something. Anyways, if you only use it a couple of times a week it should last.

If you're using the set I think you are, it's as good as they come. Great fit, properly hardened. By the way, many Wiha tools that say "made in Germany" are in fact made in China today.

On the diamond rods, just don't press too hard - you'll knock the diamonds out of the adhesive matrix.

 

[benchwarmer380]

Good to know. I have only read others complaints recently, I have none myself. I solely blame the Crowns for the slightly mangled bit. Used my brother's torx driver (the same kind) with the same result. Every other knife screw has come out easily.

I am aware, but it doesn't hurt to reiterate usefully knowledge.:thumbup: