My one and only critique of the Shirogorov 95T

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May 1, 2016
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First let me say i'm not trying to rustle any feathers, just taking an objective look at knives because i am the kind of person who likes to inspect every structural aspect on knives even when it can be a bit overkill.

I had the pleasure of handling a 95T yesterday and i'll say it's a beautiful knife, it has a very CRK vibe about it. Love the thinly ground FFG blade in M390 and as you'd expect it flips like no other. Machining of the handles also fantastic as well as all tolerances. Now, the only thing that concerned me was the steel lock bar insert design. If you look closely at the pictures below, you can see that the insert actually sits lower than the lockbar, now when this insert engages the tang it only has a few millimeters of travel before it hits into the overhanging lock bar. Basically if the lock bar was to try and settle it's self in over time or naturally adjust for wear and walk over, or if you grip the knife hard to secure the lock bar it simply cant...because the lockbar lip hits the tang and stops it in it's tracks. Now i understand the steel on steel interface will be fine for a long time, but the lock bar contact tension is very light and if you squeeze the handle at all the bar walks straight across as far as it will go until it's stopped by this overhanging lip.

This might seem great visually because the lockbar will always look as tho it's at 35%, but in reality if the steel insert flattens down or wears at all and in unable to move across naturally - it can develop lock rock. It's a confusing design choice i must say, i just felt like discussing it as out of the hundreds of knives i've broken down and inspected in my time i've never seen something like this. Other than that it's a beautiful well made knife and this wouldn't cause any major issues, just a very strange design choice.

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Yeah I have noticed that too... I would likely grind it off if it was mine
 
I have never seen it as an issue. Given it has steel on steel wear will be minimal. My guess is the extra length on the lockbar is to prevent the lockbar from engaging further than it should like on many knives with steel inserts. When that happens you are causing wear that doesn't need to happen if it does so repeatedly. This eliminates that from happening. And I have not seen any similar knives with that style of lockbar develop lock rock. Even if it did you should be able to have a new insert put in and be back to as good as new again. I have several knives with that type of extra length to the lockbar and its never been a problem. In fact I like the fact that it prevents over engagement.
 
I have never seen it as an issue. Given it has steel on steel wear will be minimal. My guess is the extra length on the lockbar is to prevent the lockbar from engaging further than it should like on many knives with steel inserts. When that happens you are causing wear that doesn't need to happen if it does so repeatedly. This eliminates that from happening. And I have not seen any similar knives with that style of lockbar develop lock rock. Even if it did you should be able to have a new insert put in and be back to as good as new again. I have several knives with that type of extra length to the lockbar and its never been a problem. In fact I like the fact that it prevents over engagement.

Funny you mention it because also thought of that, i was guessing they figured it would function much the same way as other lock bar stabilizers / over-extension tabs do in reverse. My only slight concern was how easy the lock pushed across, there was literally no resistance to get the bar to push across until it stopped at the lip, perhaps it was specific to this one knife, if it were mine i'd rather there be a little bit more resistance once the lock engaged. Cheers
 
Funny you mention it because also thought of that, i was guessing they figured it would function much the same way as other lock bar stabilizers / over-extension tabs do in reverse. My only slight concern was how easy the lock pushed across, there was literally no resistance to get the bar to push across until it stopped at the lip, perhaps it was specific to this one knife, if it were mine i'd rather there be a little bit more resistance once the lock engaged. Cheers

I agree. Even wih me using knives with this i still am not confident that years of use wont result in an issue. Now if shiro started tossing in a second lockbar insert in i wouldnt even sweat it. I am actually very surprised that my knives havent developed wear enough to make that lockbar extension an issue. But then part of me wonders if that is why its actually not wearing. I honestly have no clue.
 
I agree. Even wih me using knives with this i still am not confident that years of use wont result in an issue. Now if shiro started tossing in a second lockbar insert in i wouldnt even sweat it. I am actually very surprised that my knives havent developed wear enough to make that lockbar extension an issue. But then part of me wonders if that is why its actually not wearing. I honestly have no clue.

They do have very good tang and lock bar geometry so i imagine it will remain a non-issue for some time to come :) And i also agree on the spare parts idea, i've always wished companies would send by default some spare washers/bearings in case you lose on or damage something. Even stop pins etc. they can't be too costly to chuck in a bag. Maybe one day!
 
I have really come to see a lockbar insert on a knife as being a negative. I've seen too many knives where the lockbar will slide way over, and on the other side of the equation I have a Spyderco Southard (no steel insert) that I have flipped many, many thousands of times and the lockbar engagement is in the same spot as when I first got the knife.
 
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On my zt 0452 i can push the lockbar way over. However other than making it abit harder to unlock there seems to he no adverse effect. This means that the lock geometry is correct, just the angle of the blade tang lock face is shallow allowing it to be pushed. However this also lets me seenthat as he bar wears in it will continue to lock up solid. Consoder lushing the lockbar in a lock wear preview. Also i doubt you will wear that much steel on the lockbar insert away over a lifetime or three.
 
On my zt 0452 i can push the lockbar way over. However other than making it abit harder to unlock there seems to he no adverse effect. This means that the lock geometry is correct, just the angle of the blade tang lock face is shallow allowing it to be pushed. However this also lets me seenthat as he bar wears in it will continue to lock up solid. Consoder lushing the lockbar in a lock wear preview. Also i doubt you will wear that much steel on the lockbar insert away over a lifetime or three.

Actually if you investigate further you will find it's not that the geometry allows it, it is the flex in the titanium lock bar that allows it to move across, wedging it's self in. Not a bad thing, because obviously the bar is flexible. As long as it returns to it's normal lock position after opening and closing you'll be fine for a steel on steel interface and shouldn't have any premature wear issues.
 
The Benchmade 761 utilizes the same system on its lock bar. After a year and many many flicks it hasn't budged at all.
My Southard, as Greg mentioned above, has no insert. After 2 years of MUCH use and an incredible amount of flips the lockbar is in the same spot as the day it came out of the box.
Joe
 
Actually if you investigate further you will find it's not that the geometry allows it, it is the flex in the titanium lock bar that allows it to move across, wedging it's self in. Not a bad thing, because obviously the bar is flexible. As long as it returns to it's normal lock position after opening and closing you'll be fine for a steel on steel interface and shouldn't have any premature wear issues.

I was under the impression all lockbars were flexible as they are essentially springs. However on most folders the angle on blade tang usually is too steep for me to push the bar any further than it has worn in. However because the angle of the blade tang is closer to parralel the pivot pin it is easier for me to push it over. Either way I don't forsee the steel lock face insert wearing away that much from a steel blade tang which is around the same hardness.

I'm not disagreeing with you as I am no expert.

I am not sure if it's a good thing because I know when they make a lockback have a lockface the same hardness as the blade tang, there are often eventually problems.
 
I was under the impression all lockbars were flexible as they are essentially springs. However on most folders the angle on blade tang usually is too steep for me to push the bar any further than it has worn in. However because the angle of the blade tang is closer to parralel the pivot pin it is easier for me to push it over. Either way I don't forsee the steel lock face insert wearing away that much from a steel blade tang which is around the same hardness.

I'm not disagreeing with you as I am no expert.

I am not sure if it's a good thing because I know when they make a lockback have a lockface the same hardness as the blade tang, there are often eventually problems.

That's ok mate, and yes you are correct because both factors come into play ( sorry i should have been clearer and elaborated) the bar will flex yes, but of course only by a certain amount. And yes if the geometry of the lock bar and tang angles are very slight it will be easy for the lock bar to be pushed all the way over. But, if the angles are aggressive or have a radius, it will probably be much harder to be pushed over because the steep angle will be greater than the flex of the bar. I hope that was clear :)
 
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