My PM2 has an extremely gritty opening. Advice?

[Carbon-]

So I've had my PM2 for about a year now (black G-10, S30V) and while I love the design I've had a few issues with the build quality. I've only recently started EDC'ing it on a regular basis and a few problems have cropped up. Firstly, the grind is pretty uneven particularly at the tip. I've haven't used it enough to warrant sharpening it myself, and while this is a small thing it seems to be indicative of the rest of the knife. Recently the knife has been getting harder and harder to open, with a very noticeable grittiness.

So I took the knife apart and discovered multiple burrs on the sides of the liners and a small notch that appears to be some sort of manufacturing defect on the edge of the liner. The notch seems to be purely cosmetic but one of the burrs was on the lock-side liner. So I took some stropping compound and managed to wear down the burr until it was no longer there. (I'm not particularly handy so I'm unsure if this was a smart solution or a stupid mistake.) So I figured that was the issue and after reassembling the knife it was buttery smooth.

...For a few days, but the grittiness has returned. I'm starting to think it's related to the ball detent as it has left a noticeable scratch/mark where it contacts the tang. I'm unsure what to do at this point. I'm thinking of sending it in to Spyderco but I've heard that disassembly voids the warranty. I bought the knife from Knifeworks so it should be a legit Spydie and not a counterfeit. Should I oil the pivot? Send it in? Anyone else experienced this? I love the knife but I haven't been all that impressed with the build quality.

 

[TravisH]

Send it in and let them make an evaluation.

 

[spketch]

Put a tiny drop of oil on the detent ball and you should be good to go. Oil the pivot too if you wiped it clean when you disassembled before.
Nothing sounds off about the internals, just need to lubricate your knives regularly.

 

[powernoodle]

Just as a data point, I own multiple Para 2's and Militaries, and can't recall having ever lubed any of them. If I sense that a pivot is a little dry on any knife, I will add a drop of whatever I can find, but that is mucho rare. Lubing is certainly preferred, and I'm not saying don't do it, but I think your Para 2 should run just fine for a long, long time with nothing but trace amounts of residual lube. If you try doing what Mr. Spketch said and still have probs, then send it in. Don't fret that you disassembled it.

 

[Lee48]

If any of my knives start to feel gritty or feel like they're trying to bind when opening/closing, I wash the pivot thoroughly. A little Dawn dishwashing detergent drizzled onto the pivot, mixed with hot running water and scrubbed with an old toothbrush cleans everything out. No disassembly required. After the knife dries, I use an oily Q-tip to wipe the tang and pivot area--any light machine oil will do, like 3-In-One or gun oil. Don't overdo the oil or you'll just attract more gritty crud.

 

[whp]

One of my edc PM2 s became gritty and the lockup even developed a bit of up and dpwn blade play after a few weeks of outdoor use.
I was able to use wd40 to clean a lot of gunk out of the pivot area without disassembling it. Then I ran hot water through the pivot area, blew it dry (by mouth). I applied one drop of Breakfree onto the pivot. Now it opens smoothly and the lockup is solid. For me it was just a matter of some maintenance. That s a well made knife.

 

[Brusiedmeat]

I usually strip down most of my knives and polish washers and internals of pivoting areas and oil weekly. Small price for butter smooth action 100% of the time. Granted some of the knives are harder to do but not impossible.
I would least throw some oil in there on the minimum. I use blue lube from benchmade as it came free with my mini grip while back.

 

[bearfacedkiller]

The ball will leave a mark where it rubs the tang but it should be more of a polished line than a scratch.

The notch in your liner is a normal part of the manufacturing process and is on all of them if it is what I think it is.

The burs and uneven bevel are a bummer. If you can't get it to where you like it then send it in. Maybe there is something wrong with the ball itself. Who knows? I would clean it and oil it and if that doesn't work then send it in.

They will make the call on the warranty issue. They will fix it either way but if you buggered it up they will charge a fee and if it was a defect you may not be charged. You will have to send it in or call to find out.