My PM2 is a lot better with beveled scales

David45

David45

Joined
Oct 27, 2017
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330
I did some heavier cutting with my PM2 and noticed the edges of the scales really cut into the palm of my hand. So I did some work on the edges (inside and out) of my Blurple scales. I think that should leave the sharp edges out front where the belong.

Is it easy to remove these scales? That would make it much easier and provide the best way to get a uniform radius on the edges.
 
Removing the scales is easy, also long as there is no red Loctite...Spyderco uses it often. I don't know what works best as I haven't encountered it yet. Be careful not to strip out the screws.
 
If you are going to disassemble your PM2, then a quality torx set is a must. I cannot emphasize it enough. A rare few may have gotten by once or twice with something less, but I am telling you that it is money very well spent. I think the gold standard is Wiha.
 
on_the_edge said:
If you are going to disassemble your PM2, then a quality torx set is a must. I cannot emphasize it enough. A rare few may have gotten by once or twice with something less, but I am telling you that it is money very well spent. I think the gold standard is Wiha.
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You can get Wiha for VERY reasonable prices if you shop around at the usual online suspects.

They are an even better value when you consider the money you'll save on replacing cheaper sets over and over again.

Now consider that you'll have less damage to your knife hardware because of ill-fitting bits plus your swearing and cussin will decrease dramatically and then it becomes a true no-brainer.

I like the brand so much I bought some of their micro screwdrivers and Allen drivers for my bench.

Life's too short to waste your time and money on inferior equipment...I know you realize that or you wouldn't be on the Spyderco subforums. ;):)
 
A nice set of Wihas and a soldering iron will make quick work of any loctite.
 
+ 1 for Wiha. I 100% agree with buying Wiha. Anything less is a gamble. Stripping out knife screws really really sucks.
 
There are a few different types of Wiha bits. The Terminator set seems to be the toughest and most expensive type but they don’t come smaller than the #10 bit. I tried a #10 that I have (a Milwaukee impact bit) but it was too big. Do I need a #8 or #9 for the smaller screws?
Which of the other types of Wihas fit and won’t snap off as easily as cheaper torx bits. I happen to know about snapped off bit heads! BAD!
 
If you encounter resistance when unscrewing... STOP
Use heat to remove them. Red loctite will ruin either your bits and or the screws. Don't try and force it.

Heat with a good soldering iron, hair dryer, heat gun or soak on boiling water for a bit.

Also don't heat the blade if using a heat gun. This could hurt the temper of the blade.
 
A heated paper clip works very well too. Touch it into the screw slot for a couple of seconds and promptly use the torx loosen the screw. Heat and repeat for each screw. Having replaced a number of pocket clips on my Spydercos, this was cheap, fast and safe. Oh, and definitely invest in a Wiha torx set as others have suggested. For what it's worth, I found the scales on my PM 2 sharp as well. I just used a blade medic to chamfer the G10 edges just a bit. It worked just fine.
 
I beveled the edges of my PM2 scales without disassembling the knife. No problems, although I finished with high grit wet sanding under the sink. I much prefer the beveled edges and would do it on my other Spydies if I wasn't worried so much about them being dealer exclusives.

If I carried it more, I would also round off the scale's finger choil to more closely resemble the Military.
 
Pm2 is less beveled probably because it houses the liners and it will be easier for the scales to crack if the knife gets dropped if you take away enough material. So don't overdo it.
 
David45 said:
There are a few different types of Wiha bits. The Terminator set seems to be the toughest and most expensive type but they don’t come smaller than the #10 bit. I tried a #10 that I have (a Milwaukee impact bit) but it was too big. Do I need a #8 or #9 for the smaller screws?
Which of the other types of Wihas fit and won’t snap off as easily as cheaper torx bits. I happen to know about snapped off bit heads! BAD!
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You're going to need to go down to a T6 for the clip screws IIRC.
 
flytitanium addressed this problem with there scales on the PM2,much better then stock ones!the handles feel less sharp and don't dig in your hand.
 
Mo2 said:
If you encounter resistance when unscrewing... STOP
Use heat to remove them. Red loctite will ruin either your bits and or the screws. Don't try and force it.

Heat with a good soldering iron,.
Click to expand...

Harbor Freight is your friend.
 
Sergeua said:
Pm2 is less beveled probably because it houses the liners and it will be easier for the scales to crack if the knife gets dropped if you take away enough material. So don't overdo it.
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I sold my PM2 because of the sharp handle edges, and this is exactly why I was worried about trying to sand it down myself. (I'm also kind of a klutz about that sort of thing to begin with.) I figured there must be a reason Golden doesn't chamfer the PM2 scales like they do on, say, the Millie.
 
My money is on seeing chamfered scales on the PM2 as a CQI. They already chamfer the Para3 so makes sense to me.
 
This
Dadpool said:
I sold my PM2 because of the sharp handle edges, and this is exactly why I was worried about trying to sand it down myself. (I'm also kind of a klutz about that sort of thing to begin with.) I figured there must be a reason Golden doesn't chamfer the PM2 scales like they do on, say, the Millie.
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This is how i rock my pm2.
9bU8Xgrh.jpg

One side is spyderco g10. Gives you good grippy feel with your fingertips. The other side is contoured smooth cf scale. Its nicely chamfered also and slides into pocket smoothly. When you squeeze the knife in your right hand, you don't feel edges on that side, while the grip, g10 scale still gives a nice slim feeling in hand and in pocket.
I put pretty low primary angle on it and it has 15 dps microbevel. Its a nice edc slicer. It fills a nieshe in my rotation.
 
ScooterG said:
My money is on seeing chamfered scales on the PM2 as a CQI. They already chamfer the Para3 so makes sense to me.
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I agree with this. AND there is always the aftermarket stuff as well to solve the issue. Of all my PM2s, only two still sport original scales.
 
Knocking down the sharp corners was the 1st thing I did. Feels much better to use.
 
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