My quenching plate setups

Bob Ohlemann

Bob Ohlemann

Joined
Dec 5, 2013
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1,180
Recently there was a thread about straightening warped blades during austentizing. So, I had mentioned that I would try to post a photo of my Parrot vise plate setup. I then ended up having to have surgery to remove my gallbladder and I've been down for a little while. Got back into the shop today and managed to snap a couple pics for those that are interested.

This is how it is setup waiting for a blade to go in. Both jaws are independent in 3 axes. There is a rubber band around the bottom of the jaws to hold them open and facilitate getting the blade in quickly and straight.

2016-07-10_12-10-15 by Bob, on Flickr

I just set a blade in to show how it works. I place it in right up to the plunge with the spine at the top of the plates and tighten it down.

2016-07-10_12-08-34 by Bob, on Flickr

Another angle.

2016-07-10_12-09-52 by Bob, on Flickr

And for those who have never seen this setup, this is my standard plate quenching vise. The key here is the quick release. Also, woodworker vises have a little angle in the face of the jaws so the plates need to be shimmed when you install them. I use this for all my stainless blades which I grind post HT and I also throw my carbon folder blades in here after the 8-second quench in oil.

2016-07-10_12-10-30 by Bob, on Flickr
 
Good system.

I would suggest you rotate the vise 90° so the plates are horizontal. That will allow easier adjusting of the vise and such without having to hold the blade in place. On smaller blades, it would be the only way it would work.
 
Bob you dog have you been holding out on us? That looks like an Uncle Al's forging press in the background of that first picture :D

A couple of us were asking for reviews from someone that owns one not too long ago, I would love to hear your thoughts on it.

Back on topic, I like the parrot vice with the plates wedged like that. I've seen folks use the horizontal vice like your second set of photos before but the plates configured in a wedge looks like it would make getting a blade in there quick and easy. Sorry Stacy I think I have to disagree with you on this one, I think I'd keep them vertical.

-Clint
 
Augus7us said:
Bob you dog have you been holding out on us? That looks like an Uncle Al's forging press in the background of that first picture :D

A couple of us were asking for reviews from someone that owns one not too long ago, I would love to hear your thoughts on it.

Back on topic, I like the parrot vice with the plates wedged like that. I've seen folks use the horizontal vice like your second set of photos before but the plates configured in a wedge looks like it would make getting a blade in there quick and easy. Sorry Stacy I think I have to disagree with you on this one, I think I'd keep them vertical.

-Clint
Click to expand...

Clint, the Uncle Al's press is decent. I like the small-ish footprint and it has enough power if your steel is hot enough in the first place. One of my vertical sections that support the upper die head galled and developed a burr almost immediately. It wasn't bad enough to slow down the hydraulics but if left unchecked, it might have become an issue. I just filed it down with a hand file. If the galling had been reversed, I don't think there would be anything I could have done about it. I like that the die plates are easy to swap and stay pretty secure in the press. I also really like the limiting device they install on the machine. It is a simple little clamp on one of the uprights that bumps the travel switch. You can slide it up and down to prevent the press from returning to the top of its' travel when you take your foot off the treadle. It's very handy! I had Al make me a set of drawing dies and they were not really what I wanted so if you order any custom tooling, be VERY specific. Al seems like a really nice guy and I feel like the press is a good value.

You are correct on the Parrot vise; it is far better in the position I have it. I can set a blade in it before HT and tighten it down the way I want, then back off a half turn and it is ready. I pull the blade from the oil, give it a quick wipe off and drop it into the plates. Turn the handle back that half turn and it is set.

Bob
 
Thanks for the write up Bob. I'd really like to build one but lately I feel like I am working on fixing tools and building things more than I am knives. And when it comes to a press its just hard to look past the price of Uncle Al's. A forging press shipped to your door for less than a TW-90 is hard to dismiss.

A guy at my local club is in the process of building one so I am going to see how that goes and make a decision when I get the new shop.

Sorry to derail your thread!

-Clint
 
I went ahead and made a simple set up of plates to use for Damascus blades contour ground , parallel sides, and holes drilled to be clamped in.
I thought it worked fine. I've always had all stainless and almost all Damascus blades heat treated for me. I still had a few to straighten. Several years back I was an avid reader of whatever Bob Egnathe, I hope that's the correct spelling, would write. It seems to me he recommended when doing the oil hardening in put the blade in parallel to the container side and make a figure of eight. Is this correct or should the blade be placed into the oil without any motion at all? Yes I've been around for awhile but am always looking for the right way or even just better than my present used procedures. Thanks for your help.
Frank
 
Oooh, I like the vertical plate setup. I've been noodling about how to do that. I plate quench a lot of blades post-grinding, and I think some warping comes from pressure from the foil and/or gravity when very hot.

Frank, I'm not an expert, but I've read and practiced oil quenching by stabbing or cutting the oil only, no lateral movement. It doesn't take much to bend a super hot blade. I've also seen blades warp that were waved in the oil. My success rate is reasonable.
 
I learned to oil quench from J.R. Cook MS, and he taught me to put a hole in the end of the tang before heat treating and to place a heavy wire hook (think length of welding rod with one end hooked) through the hole as you pull it out of the forge. Allow the blade to hang straight down and plunge it straight down into the oil then straight up and down only. No slicing or side to side. I've had good success with this technique though I actually just hold folder blades with a long pair of needle nose pliers.

Bob
 
Bob Ohlemann said:
I learned to oil quench from J.R. Cook MS, and he taught me to put a hole in the end of the tang before heat treating and to place a heavy wire hook (think length of welding rod with one end hooked) through the hole as you pull it out of the forge. Allow the blade to hang straight down and plunge it straight down into the oil then straight up and down only. No slicing or side to side. I've had good success with this technique though I actually just hold folder blades with a long pair of needle nose pliers.

Bob
Click to expand...
A machinist at work told me figure 8's. I use it on o1 and 1095 and that gets good results.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
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