My replacement handles

Joined
Sep 29, 1999
Messages
547
Ok, these are some really crude photos of what I made. I'm almost embarrassed by the quality of the pictures, but I said that as soon as I could post a picture I would. As soon as I can get a digital camera, I'll take some decent pics and put them on the album so you can see what it really looks like. So for now, try to bare with me.

Let me know what you think.

Oh, by the way, since you can't tell from the pictures shown, this blade is from a BM 239 (I think that's the correct #). The handles and latch were milled from a piece of 3/4" x 12" round brass stock. I already bought a have the same size stock in SS for my next project, but if I was going to order the stock again, I think I'd have gotten it in square (bar?) stock because it probably would've been a little easier. Hey, you learn as you go.

Steve

[This message has been edited by epigram79 (edited 01-20-2001).]
 
This should give a direct link
smile.gif


Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

Pic 4

From the pics given, it looks like a great start. Could you let me know the details that went into making it? Materials, time, procedure, files? I really want to get into a project like this. Thanks
smile.gif



------------------
Dave

My collection
 
Steve, are you taking pictures underwater? ....hehehe
biggrin.gif
just kidding.

But they do look really good. Nice job.
 
David, like I said, it was made out of all round stock. The pins are 3/16" diameter. I got a small rod of 3/16" brass stock for that. The latch was cut from 3/8" round stock.

Dimentions:
Length: 5"
Width: .630"
Height on latch side: .540" tapered to .340" on the pivot side
Slots(smallest to biggest): 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" in diameter and each 1" long. They start 1" from the top (pivot side) of the handle and are spaced 1/8" apart. That leaves 3/4" at the bottom.

The pin holes for the handles to pivot on were drilled and reamed. Then the pins were pressed in using a vice and a punch, then sanded down flush.

Equipment I used:
Milling machine (almost everything was done on this)
Vice
Punch
Belt sander
Wet/dry sand paper (to give it a brushed finish)
Dial caliper
Band saw
Lathe (only once or twice to make a cut from the band saw look nice, but it wasn't necessary and I definately could have gotten away without it.)
And that dark-blue liquid stuff you use for making your marks.

Time it took, I don't know...I'd go down to the machine shop here at school once a week (sometimes twice if I could get in) for between 1 to 5 hours at a time. It all depended on how long I was allowed to stay. I guess I did that for 8 to 10 weeks at say 2.5 hrs a shot...35 hrs. about.

By the way, when I say something was cut at 1/8" I mean at .125" exactly. It wasn't the case that I just looked at it and said, "hmm, that looks about right."

If you want I can email you the whole specs. with all the dimensions.

Steve

[This message has been edited by epigram79 (edited 01-19-2001).]
 
Looking good! At least what I can see thru the fog
biggrin.gif


Bob

------------------
"The search is half the fun!"
 
Steve,

I'm excited to see such an effort. If you like, you can e-mail me for details, then send me the knife and I'll photograph it for you and return it.



------------------
Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com
 
I might be jumping on the replacement handle bandwagon soon. My girlfriend's father has two milling machines. One is a small table top model and the second is a HUGE 500 some lb monster. I am mechanically inclined and all, but dont know the first thing about using one (back in HS, I did sign up for metals shop, but found they had no one to teach it
frown.gif
). Well, her family does like my and I get along well with her dad, but how do you go about asking if you can use the guy's equipment to "make a knife?" Sounds like Im asking for trouble
smile.gif


------------------
"I see you played knifie spoonie before..."
 
Back
Top