My Sharpening journey

Joined
Oct 10, 2009
Messages
545
So I've messed around with a couple sharpening systems. Sharpmaker and the Edge Pro Apex. I still like the sharpmaker, but never was able to warm up to the edge pro. Just ended up taking the stones and free handing it for the few blades I did sharpen. Just wasn't for me.

So I recently made a trip down to Lee Valley Tools on King street and picked up a few water stones. I'm essentially using this thread to track my progress. I still have a long way to go before I really get great edges. but I feel I am able to get satisfactory results using a process that is more 'natural' to me.

Here is the unboxing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnzYbYqLY0g

Attempt#1 (was only moderately satisfied with this edge. Needs more work)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JN6YQtEulQ0&feature=related

Attempt#2 (this was an improvement; however the very base of the edge was hard to sharpen)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5WDNiQmGbA&feature=channel_video_title

I'll update this thread as I make progress. Let's hope things go smoothly. Any suggestions from those with experience is always welcome. :)
 
Not too bad, IMO your doing very well for just starting out with waterstones. You also made a good choice in stones which helps.

The issue you were having with your para is that the edge has no flat spots or in other words its all belly. With that sweeping edge type your only contacting a very small point, drop the handle a little more and butt the ricasso to the edge of the stone.

Tips,
Use edge trailing strokes as you come to a finish with each stone, this will help give you a better/sharper edge. Don't stress about keeping your stones super flat, a little out of true is fine unless the tool requires a very flat sharpening surface. A cheap diamond plate from harbor freight or nagura stone to keep the surface clean if you don't have one. And if you don't want your stone holder to rust dry and oil after every use, not a big deal though.

I have the Imanshi 10k and IIRC the 4k and 8k and 10k all work the same as in they are all polishing stones and use the build up of removed metal to advance the polishing effects of the stone. The more build up the better but if it becomes shiny, gray, and spotted looking then that is a sign its becoming overloaded.
 
Awesome! Quick question, could you elaborate on a 'trailing stroke'. It's not a term I'm very familiar with.
 
Like leather stropping, instead of pushing the edge into the stone your are pulling it away like on a strop.

Check out some of the Murray Carter vids on YouTube, that will show the technique.
 
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