My Sheaths - Mostly Pouch Styles

[logem]

All,

I tend to post regularly on the "Knife Maker Shoptalk" forum, as this is where my roots are: a mechanical engineer who makes hunting knives as a hobby/business.

Yet, I've been tinkering in the leather working arena for at least 7 years. I fit each of my knives with a custom sheath. As time goes on, I think my work has reached a level to which I'd like to show a few photos. I've still got a long ways to go to match the quality of some of the work shown here.

Constructive comments are highly welcome.

But here goes:

 

[leatherman]

Nice work! Thanks for posting!

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Hey bud, glad to see you post more here. Really nice work. Your sheaths remind me of holsters for some reason. Is the stitch line at the top for looks?

 

[bodam]

I can't wait for you to show me how to make a nice sheath, lol

 

[logem]

Hey bud, glad to see you post more here. Really nice work. Your sheaths remind me of holsters for some reason. Is the stitch line at the top for looks?

Yes, they kind of resemble holsters. I like the style and effect.

The stitch across the top is strictly for aesthetics.

Mike L.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

That's interesting. I remember you asking about lining so it made me wonder. It'll be an easy thing once you get it working out since you are used to stitching all the way around already.

 

[logem]

I'm going to try to line my next pouch sheath, but that may be a couple of months from now. I have two larger hidden tangs that I want to finish first and they will use a stacked leather sheath. After that, I'll resume making hunters which I sheath with this pouch style. Whenever it occurs, I'll post back to report on my success or difficulties in lining a sheath with such a curved mouth.

Mike L.

 

[Horsewright]

Mike

I really like your work. I mentioned when you posted the top pics over in the makers gallery that I really liked your unusual use of that meander, carlos border or running w stamp whatever you want to call it. Same goes for your flower center stamping on some of the other sheaths. I really like your creative use of these stamps. I think you might want to round that top corner some on some of those sheaths. I find it very visually appealing however its been my experience that any sharp corner like that will wear and also turn up in time. Your second snakewood handled knife down in your pics that sheath looks like its starting to do that. I had to change one of my patterns some years back for the same reason. That sharp corner will just do funny things over time. But like I said it sure looks cool. Maybe try not to bleed your stamping so close into your border stamping. Occasionally it seems a little muddled. If you border stamp first you can always go over it again after you've done your center stamping to clean up any bleed over. Lot of guys will do their center stamping first and then border stamp to prevent that bleed over. Doesn't really work for me though. Couple spots where your edger could of been sharper. I recognise it from alas not having my edgers sharp enough at times. I about touch em up every time I use em.

Did I mention I really like your work both knife and sheath. I love Snakewood!!

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Woah good eye on the meander stamp. I was trying to figure out which stamp made the pattern, figured it was a custom oval or something along those lines. I love when you look at creative stamping and it dawns on you that it was done with a mundane tool.

As for the corner turning up, Dave made a similar comment about one of my designs. The sheath hasn't had any problems yet (I keep in contact with certain customers just for this type of thing), but I have no doubt that it's good advice. I've eliminated such corners as much as possible.

 

[logem]

Dave,

Thanks for the great feedback. I've started to recognize the potential pitfall of the sharp corner on these sheaths recently but haven't really gone beyond that. I'm glad that you brought it up, as I'll see what I can do to maintain the basic shape of the sheathes, yet, substantially round that corner to prevent feathering in the future.

I usually bevel my border, then stamp my centers, and then come back and use a border tool at the perimeter. I often run a bit of my center stamping (lightly) into the area where I know the border stamp will end up over-stamping the center pattern. It sounds like it may be better to stop my center stamping just shy of where the border stamp will make impressions to prevent any muddled details?

I've been using a C.S. Osborne western style edger in a size 1 (3/64"). I don't think I've ever sharpened it. I've struggled on how to do so properly. I know there was some discussion here about it recently. I'll look back to find that and get this edger sharpened. I also have a size 2 and 3 but don't ever use them. Should I be using a larger chamfer/cut on the edge than a size 1? Perhaps, if I get this size 1 sharpened properly, this this won't be an issue.

Again, thanks a bunch for the suggestions, and for the nice words regarding my knifes too.

Mike L.

 

[Horsewright]

You bet Mike well deserved. When I first started doing this stuff. I did my border first and then stamped inside. After some years I found out the "right" way was doing the inside first and then the border. I did it this way for some years. I then swithced back to my "wrong " way and have been doing it that way ever since. What I found was that I was spending a lot more time doing the same job because of the cleanup. I'd either stamp too far and get into the border area or I'd stop too soon and then I'd have to come back and bring the stamping out to the border. It just was more work than necessary for the same result. Yeah find that thread it will help you sharpen your edgers. I really do hit em on the buffer everytime I use, Its easier not to let them get dull. On sheaths I use a #3 most often. I do use a #1 for the throat on an unline sheath but a 3 on all the edges.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I'm buying a #3 as I find the #2 a tad small for 7/8/9oz leather.

I don't believe that I've taken a pic of my sharpener. I'll do that later. It's just a piece of wood board about 6" long and 3" (or so) wide. Take a rod/dowel (or wire) that is about, or slightly smaller than the curve of the backside of the tool. Place a piece of wet/dry paper over the rod and strop on it. I've found 2000grit to be sufficient, however, you can use micro-mesh to go way higher if you need to bevel soft leather. I was trying to think of something (abrasive string probably) to polish the inside of the notch, but it hasn't been necessary. Your tool is probably made to a higher standard than mine so the inside is probably great as is.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I had to requisition the cf rod for a rocket project that I was doing with my daughters. I decided to make a new/better sharpening board.

It has three lengths of dowel glued to the board. Really only need two. I have 2k and 2.5k strips for polishing and one with 1oz pig skin grain up. I'll put a little ChromOx compound on the strop after its fully dried.

Cost next to nothing and takes 5 minutes to put together. Huge difference between a so so edger and what I have now though. Give it a shot.

 

[logem]

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Thanks for posting this. I'll sharpen my edgers.

Mike L.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

No problem Mike. I hope it works well for you. Interestingly enough, I was going through the Weaver catalog and they actually sell a similar board only there are more and varying width rods. They are glued into a groove instead of glued on top. Basically it's a very nice version of the same idea and is only around $15. Certainly more expensive than mine, but it's also more versatile. Might be worth a look.

 

[Forgedfixedblade]

Beautiful work, I'm pretty excited about making a few of my first very own sheaths here soon, trying to get a few things together now. Do post more, you have a very unique style that I really like.