My Supertool 300 has rust spots

Toyz

Toyz

Joined
Nov 2, 2006
Messages
1,838
I was surprised when I took my ST 300 out to use it this past weekend - the parts of the tool that face each other when closed developed a healthy pattern of rust freckles.

I know it wasn't wet, and I carry it in the sheath, which allows air to get to the tool.

I've never had a LM rust before - this is probably my 6th multi tool from them.

My Wave, which I've had for years and has been to hell and back, never once showed any signs of rust.

Did LM change their steel mix?
 
Spray it down with WD-40 and wipe it off then leave a coat of WD-40 on it, should be no issues.
 
Nope - I don't live near salt water nor was it sweat.

Weirdest thing I've seen on a LM.
 
It's never happened on any of my LM multi-tools. Heck, I use my Core every day at work and regularly get it wet, wipe the outside and put it back in the sheath. The individual tools remain wet and still not a speck of rust.
 
Some posters have reported rust problems with their Leathermen, even when well maintained and in dry climates. I believe them, but for 15 years I have been using Leatherman tools of one kind or another, acquired in different years, in many environments with minimal maintenance. So far, I have experienced no rust on any of them, and from what I gather on this forum, others have had the same with theirs. This discrepancy is hard to explain by steel sample variations.

Obviously, due to my situation, I have no urgent need to get to the bottom of this, but out of simple curiosity, I hope some forumite has the time and interest to find out what gives here.
 
yes it happens sometimes. under the right conditions/places, we've mentioned/posted it several times.

but it's really not a big deal, even if you let it get worst over time (with Leatherman). It's very easy to clean/remove, comes off fast and easy (mostly)

all steels will rust and get spots eventually, part of the deal of steel (that rhymes) I wouldn't worry about it, just monitor it and keep it clean ;)
 
I was able to remove most of the spots with a Mr Clean Magic Eraser and a little WD-40.

There are still faint traces of some of the spots.

I estimate there were about 100 - 200 spots, with most of them being very small freckles.

There was no scarring or pitting.

I'm going to have to treat this guy like I would a non-stainless tool.
 
I've had Leathermans for a long time, and I have to treat them as I do with any bead-blasted knife.
Take the tool apart (not advised with a Leatherman) and use simichrome polish or Flitz. No need to sand; just rub the polish in and let it sit for about a minute. Wipe it off, then polish. I use a Q-tip for hard-to-reach spots, as this is where it's most likely to rust since you're not getting the gunk out of those places. Run the entire tool under very fast-running (the more power, the better) very hot water (as hot as you can handle). Dry it with compressed air, then lube it as normal. Keep a tiny amount of lube on the blade, saw, and bits.
 
JNieporte said:
I've had Leathermans for a long time, and I have to treat them as I do with any bead-blasted knife.
Take the tool apart (not advised with a Leatherman) and use simichrome polish or Flitz. No need to sand; just rub the polish in and let it sit for about a minute. Wipe it off, then polish. I use a Q-tip for hard-to-reach spots, as this is where it's most likely to rust since you're not getting the gunk out of those places. Run the entire tool under very fast-running (the more power, the better) very hot water (as hot as you can handle). Dry it with compressed air, then lube it as normal. Keep a tiny amount of lube on the blade, saw, and bits.
Click to expand...

I'll have to try this - but honestly - I'm not sure how I can take the Supertool 300 apart with the type of fastener system they use. Can you point me in the direction of a "how to"? It almost looks like the fasteners were peened, kinda like a slip joint knife.
 
Well, what was said til now is right. I can agree with this all 100 %.

I have a LM Blast, which is my low-duty-multitool. I wore it on a building lot. The weather was pretty wet and my tool fell out of my hand in a bucket with dirty water. I fished it out, rubbed it dry and it disappeared in the sheath. After about three weeks I used the tool again. Rust allover. The blade, the pliers and so on...
I was not very amused. I started cursing heavily. At home I cleaned the tool removed the rust spots and sprayed it heavily with WD40.

A little bit of oil after using doesn´t damage your tools, that´s I´ve learned about with this little story.


Kind regards
 
A few rust spots aren't going to hurt the tool in the least. It's interesting, but nothing to fret over.
 
Toyz: "I'll have to try this - but honestly - I'm not sure how I can take the Supertool 300 apart with the type of fastener system they use. Can you point me in the direction of a "how to"? It almost looks like the fasteners were peened, kinda like a slip joint knife."


I haven't seen any (haven't looked) how-tos for disassembling a Leatherman, but there might be some up on YouTube. Using the technique I mentioned earlier, minus the disassembly, works for most of my Leathermans (Blast, Kick, Wave, ST 300, Surge). Remove all dirt and crap from the tool, then use the polish on it. A normal cotton t-shirt works well for the actual polishing. Proceed as outlined.
I think the problem is that Leatherman uses a bead blast finish on their tools, which creates more small pits for sweat, water, and gunk to accumulate in. Rust, rust, rust. I've had the same problem with Kershaw's bead blasting, and it's my standard procedure now to do the polish job on any bead-blasted tool (or knife) I get before even using it. Disassembling it is ideal, as you can get into every single nook and corner, but not necessary. Use the method above and you should be fine.
 
Hi,

Is your sheath a leather one?

The leather curing compounds may be your problem. I don't use leather sheaths - only nylon. Oh, new Leatherman carry tools get a silicone (not silicon) wipe down before use and about once a month after that - no rust.

Best - Joe

Hope this helps - Joe
 
The flap of the sheath is leather, but the remainder is nylon.

I compared the ST 300 to older models of LM I have and the finish in the area that rusted is just not as refined as the older tools. You can clearly see the grinder marks in the areas that rusted - the moisture formed along the grind lines and spots developed.
 
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