My take on stropping

Joined
Apr 7, 2006
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Two years ago, I decided to make a strop and see what everyone was raving about. By that time, I was very proficient on stones and could get a nice sharp edge but kept reading about those atom edges obtained on strops. I had a box of leather scraps sitting around, so I found a piece that was big enough for my strop (12"x4"). I Gorilla Glued the leather to a piece of Marine-Grade plywood I cut out and clamped it for the night. When I got back to the shop in the morning, I unclamped the strop and my heart skipped a beat: I had glued on the leather smooth side down (rough side showing). I was about to start over, but I decided to try it out first. I went to Lowes and bought the green buffing compound, applied a bit of Coleman fuel (aka Naptha aka White Gas) to the leather and painted on the compound. I was able to polish up an edge in no time and haven't looked back. I now strop all of my knives regularly and will give my daily carry a few swipes before going in the drawer. Originally I was very careful about angles, pressure, and number of swipes... I now just hold the knife about so with medium-light pressure and swipe it a few times on each side before checking. I've found stropping to be very forgiving and extremely helpful in bringing the most out of your steel. I read a lot of threads on here about not being able to understand stropping. It's quite simple once you figure it out and it's important not to over-complicate it. Here are a few pointers I've figured out:

-One very important thing to keep in mind is you will not be able to strop a dull edge. You must lay all the groundwork out first and should only start stropping when you already have a nice sharp semi-polished edge.

-If you make a strop, you just need leather, wood, and glue. No need for premium anything, it just has to be flat and hold compound. I like the rough side out because it seems to hold compound better, but YMMV.

-Applying compound: pour about 2 tablespoons of white gas on your strop and wipe it both ways with a white-gas-soaked cloth to clean it. Holding a stick of compound sideways, run it with the grain of the leather (making it smooth) until the strop is green. I put it on heavy and wipe all the extra (shows up as little balls) off with my hand. How much compound? Just color it green and call it good.

-What angle? If you're proficient at stones, you're going to be great at stropping. Many people say angle is critical, I say you have about a 5 degree buffer zone. The strop is soft and forgiving. Use the same angle as sharpening on stones (only push with the spine first).

-What pressure? You don't want to push hard, but things get done faster with a very small amount of pressure. I use a bit more pressure than I just used on my finishing stone, maybe double the weight of the knife. I can tell a difference if I spend forever with VERY light pressure, but it's not that big of a difference and I think I may just be noticing the many number of strokes, not the pressure.

-How many Strokes? If you are just stropping after light use, about 5-10 per side is all that is needed. If you just reprofiled an edge, it may take as many as 50 per side.

I hope this helps someone looking to make a strop!
Here's a picture of my freshly loaded homemade strop:

DSC02382.jpg
 
+1 here, Only I skipped the white gas treatment step & just applied the green compund to the leather. When you're done, the blade edge will look polished & the very fine grain lines should be gone. It will be sharp. Also +1 on the fact - stropping a dull blade will get you nowhere.
 
My first try at making a strop I put the leather down with chrome side up. This surface was very slick. Compound did not take very well, nor did the glue. My second try I did chrome side down and the glue would not hold. I used Elmers wood glue and it sticks to wood but not to leather . I will try Gorilla Glue on 3rd try. This is not hard to do but, COME ON!!!
 
With my compounded strops, I've been using the smooth side, but I sand it lightly first. Some medium or fine grit sandpaper will put just a little nap in the leather (sort of velvety), which holds the compound very well. Over time, with some use, and as compound is occasionally refreshed, the surface pretty much smoothes out again, with much compound left embedded. If the strop becomes excessively dirty, I'll re-sand and start the cycle again.
 
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