My take on the Benchmade 710

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Mar 13, 2008
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9
I've had my 710 for a few days, so I thought I'd pass on my evaluation. I like Benchmade knives and think they generally provide good value. My EDC is usually a Bradley Alias II Titanium which is actually made by Benchmade. I spent 32 years in law enforcement, so I never go out without a knife and a gun (J frame 640 in winter, Ruger LCP in summer).

My first thoughts of the 710 is that it has some heft to it. Not too much, but you know it's in your pocket. Flimsy dress pants are not going to do well with a 710 clipped to the pocket. It seems like a really big knife when you open it. It reminds me of the Crocodile Dundee scene where Mick says to the street punks, "That's not a knife....THIS is a knife". The 710 definitely conveys some authority when you whack it open---kind of like racking a shotgun. Opening, however, has been a bit of a problem. The blade locks up 100% but the pivot is a little tight, so that doing the wrist-snap opening won't work. I think it will loosen up with use, but right now it feels stiff. My Axis lock Griptilian literally falls out of the handle when I push the Axis buttons, and I can flip-flop it like a bali song---not so with this 710.

I've heard some complaints about the sharpness of new Benchmades, but this one was "scary sharp" right out of the box. When first playing with it I was super careful, because I know if I cut myself with this thing it would be a bad one. Hopefully the plain D2 blade will hold this edge for a while, but I think I'll just be lazy and send it back to the factory for free sharpening when the time comes. It has a re-curve, saber shaped blade that would be a bitch to sharpen in super-hard D2.

I really like Axis locks and they lock so nice, they turn a folder into a fixed blade. The Axis studs on the 710 are more recessed than on a Griptilian and much harder to operate. Also the thumb stud on the blade is too close to the grip to get a good shove on it. I think my Dremel with the mini sanding drum can relieve the G 10 a bit and fix this. I shouldn't have to do this on a $100 knife, but that's the way it is. I got this from Knifeworks.com out of Columbia Louisiana, and they were great to deal with--$116 delivered.

This 710 will replace an old 800 series AFCK that I have used and abused since the mid-1990's. It's still functional, and reminds me of the 710 in many ways. If you want a nice Benchmade to open envelopes at work, , get yourself a 940 with a cute purple back spacer, but if you want a real weapon/tool get a 710.
 
the 710 is a great classic & the d2 as tested by knarfeng came in about 61.3 on r.r.these are so slick they can be opened almost as easy left handed as right.i clean carpets so my edc is an endura but if was headed for rocky roads the 710 would roll.my 710 was purchased when 1st on market & all these years later it's glass smooth with no play.
dennis
 
Also the thumb stud on the blade is too close to the grip to get a good shove on it. I think my Dremel with the mini sanding drum can relieve the G 10 a bit and fix this. I shouldn't have to do this on a $100 knife, but that's the way it is.

Don't wreck your knife with a Dremel tool... the thumbstuds on the 710 are perfect. You open a 710 by pushing the stud up along the long axis of the knife, not out perpendicular to the long axis.

Your 710 has a sabre shaped blade? Every one I've seen is a drop point with a slightly recurved edge.

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
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Desmo bob--You are right !
I also decided that screwing around with a Dremel on my new knife was not a good idea.
The pivot adjustment on my other Benchmades is do delicate--just a gnat's hair from too tight to too loose--so I'm going to just use this one for a while and see if it loosens up on its own.
The blade is a drop point with a slight recurve, which I have always thought was also called a saber shape. If this is incorrect, my bad.
As a rider of old Triumphs, I always defer to anyone smart enough to adjust the valves on an Italian machine.
 
Hey, does the old Loc-Tite trick (where you find the sweet spot and let it set overnight) really work?

I haven't tried it but I have quite a few BM's with that real tiny window between too loose and too tight.
 
Desmo bob--You are right !
I also decided that screwing around with a Dremel on my new knife was not a good idea.
The pivot adjustment on my other Benchmades is do delicate--just a gnat's hair from too tight to too loose--so I'm going to just use this one for a while and see if it loosens up on its own.
The blade is a drop point with a slight recurve, which I have always thought was also called a saber shape. If this is incorrect, my bad.
As a rider of old Triumphs, I always defer to anyone smart enough to adjust the valves on an Italian machine.

Glad it worked out for you!

I had the same issue with the thumb studs when I bought the 710. But luckily, I read about the opening technique here on BladeForums and it made me a whole lot happier with the knife. I think the 710 will grow on you. I also had an AFCK prior to the 710 (and had a Mini-AFCK before that; it was my first "good" knife) and never really cared for the looks of the 710. But I read so much about it I had to finally get one. After carrying it and using it for some years, it really grew on me. I can now understand why it has such a great reputation.

Old Triumphs? Here's my first street bike... not real old, but not one of the new ones... my 1979 Bonneville Special:

BONNEVLL.jpg


And here's a "project bike" that's sitting in my basement (the carbs are off in this photo), a 1969 Daytona chopper. I got it for nothing and have no idea which way to go with it. :eek:

69chopA.jpg


Anyone can adjust the valves on a Ducati desmodromic engine. The secret is to drink plenty of chianti or grappa first! ;)

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
Yes, it works like a charm. Make sure both parts are clean first, though.

Hey, does the old Loc-Tite trick (where you find the sweet spot and let it set overnight) really work?

I haven't tried it but I have quite a few BM's with that real tiny window between too loose and too tight.
 
The top reason why I picked a Military over the 710 was the recurve.

I see you're going for the factory-resharpen route, but have you yet come across any jobs where the recurve was actually useful?
 
Get a sharpmaker for the recurve - no problems.

+1 on the Sharpmaker.

I'm not one for buying sharpening gadgets, but the Sharpmaker is a very useful tool. I use it as it's intended, plus I use the rods a lot for freehand touch-ups, etc.. I bought the diamond rods for it, too.

wongKI,

A recurve blade excels for slicing! I bet I could slice an entire whitetail deer into jerky strips without having to stop and sharpen my 710 one time! ;)

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
I guess I just don't see the need to get a Sharpmaker for just one knife :) Especially when it's not as versatile as a DMT Aligner. Over here stuff from the U.S costs maybe twice to three times as much.

Desmobob, What sort of cutting do you mean by slicing? Push-cutting, pull-cutting? I assume it's the latter.
 
Recurves - poor man's Sharpmaker= Croc Sticks. Seriously, $15-$20 will get your recurves screaming sharp.
 
I have never laid eyes on--much less actually used --a Sharpmaker. I see them advertised for about $60 and I watched a video of them on Youtube. I have always had a cheap set of ceramic croc sticks that did a great job touching up a slightly dull bade.

Is the Sharpmaker the way to go for D2 or SV30 ?
 
I have never laid eyes on--much less actually used --a Sharpmaker. I see them advertised for about $60 and I watched a video of them on Youtube. I have always had a cheap set of ceramic croc sticks that did a great job touching up a slightly dull bade.

Is the Sharpmaker the way to go for D2 or SV30 ?

I have both a set of DMTs and a Sharpmaker. I think I prefer DMT stones.

Dennis sent me his 710 to play with for a spell and I was much impressed. I thought the handle was one of the most comfortable I have tried, and I really liked the heft and balance. I'm not a big fan of recurves, but I did find I was able to sharpen it to my satisfaction using DMT stones. (Sharpmaker works, too.)
 
I lay a dmt diamond stone on top of the sharpmaker stone to get the angle, and use it for stock removal. Worked great on a couple of really obtuse angles. I like simple, and the Sharpmaker does that in spades. It is less versitile, if that matters to you, but it doesn't to me.
 
Don't wreck your knife with a Dremel tool... the thumbstuds on the 710 are perfect. You open a 710 by pushing the stud up along the long axis of the knife, not out perpendicular to the long axis.

That works best for flicking. I don't find it as comfortable when I want to have my thumb on the stud from closed to open position.
 
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