My Talonite Hypothesis

Joined
Oct 4, 1998
Messages
1,100
I was cutting up some cardboard boxes today with a Talonite blade. I checked the edge after a while and noticed that it felt more "grippy" after cutting then before. The inch or so before the tip was a little bit dull, so I ran it through three or four passes on the cardboard and it actually felt sharper.

Sooo, my thinking is that due to Talonite's low RC values, and maybe due to factors involved with the manufacturing process, Talonite sloughs off a thin layer of edge when cutting soft materials, resulting in the renewal of the micro-serrations along the bevel. This would, in essence, continually re-create the edge and account for the legendary edge holding reported by some users.

Any takers?

Jack

 
Donovan,
After much testing this past week with my own Talonite knife I don't believe any regeneration occurrs.
As I have mentioned in many sharpening and Talonite threads, I use a stereo microscope to view the edges of the blades I sharpen. My findings were that a Talonite blade dulled by cardboard looked much like any other material. Just shiny with the sharp edge "polished" away.
My feeling on this and I'm sure other Talonite users will agree, is that when a Talonite blade reaches this point, it will cut with less resistance than steel blades. This may be due to the materials characteristics that you mentioned or just the fact that pure colbalt has a "slippery" feel to it in general, something that I just can't explain
smile.gif

What I find hard about sharpening Talonite is how the wire edge or burr is removed. I sharpen all my blades on a slow moving, wet belt. To make a long explanation short, I make both sides of the edge even then remove the burr with a strop. With Talonite this burr can be very tough to remove and if I keep stropping after it's gone I quickly loose the SHARP part of the ege!! When the blade feels scary sharp to the touch, under the microscope, it shows that I didn't completly remove the burr! My findings show that a Talonite edge that appears to be PERFECTLY sharp under the microscope, does not feel that way to the touch!!
At this point, when sharpening, I can tell when my steel blades are sharp and I just confirm this under the microscope. Sometimes I find small areas along the blade that need to be re-done but that's it. I'm still developing a feel for the Talonite and when I sharpen it now, the blade spends quite a bit of time under the microscope!!
There are so many topics here discussing the best sharpening devices. I feel that magnification devices to look at the edges should be a topic!! A $10 jewellers loupe and a good light are all that is realy needed.
As a maker I have found it important to provide my customers with advice on field sharpening my knives. Sharpening a knife is easy here in the shop
smile.gif
Out of about 100 different hand stones I have, the best one I have found for touching up Talonite is the fine (green) DMT. I use it with water to float away the Talonite particles.
Neil

------------------
Blackwood Knives
Talonite knives in stock!!
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Meeting/5520/index.html

[This message has been edited by Dr.Lathe (edited 04-02-2000).]
 
I am VERY fond of my stereo microscope. It tells you "what".

------------------
D.T. UTZINGER
 
Donovan, if passing a blade through cardboard a couple of times alters its performance then something is seriously wrong.

Neil, the green DMT is the x-fine, 1200 grit stone, the red DMT is the fine, 600 grit hone.

The microscope idea is a very good one, I use it when after honing the blade will not get sharp even though I have brought the bevels down to match. Usually the cause is that the edge is pretty beat up, fractured and overstressed which means it all has to be ground away.

-Cliff
 
Back
Top