My third attempt at something leathery. Thread question

[mccandmatt]

Hello I am new to knife making, been making them for a few months now, and decided about a month ago that I need to play with some leather to accompany the tragically shaped somewhat sharp and pointy things I make.

My question is on the fold over belt loop where I have it stitched the tip of the knife is catching against the threads and actually cutting them, I am going to remake the sheath before I let a friend test the knife out but I do not want the stitching to come apart on him while he is out in the woods, or anywhere for that matter. So if I make the loop longer and stitch it lower I am concerned the tip of the blade will catch and cut, so do I make the loop longer and stitch it higher up on the sheath? I kind if like how it rides a little high, I was thinking that maybe using another thinner piece of leather to line the inside of the sheath and protect the stitching. I am sure there is a thousand different ways I can do this, I just want to make sure I do it right. Thanks in advance for any and all advice

The hole on the top there was going to be for a rivet but not going to now that I have to redo the sheath.

Matt

1st Pic

2nd Pic is a shot of the inside where the stitching is

3rd Pic is the outside view of the stitching

4th Pic is showing roughly how far the knife sits in the sheath and where the stitching is

 

[sheathmaker]

Lining the area to cover the stitches is probably the easiest and most effective method. Completely lining the interior of the sheath would be the very best solution, but just a thin leather "patch" over the area might suffice. I assume you put a welt in all around the edge to prevent cutting the stitches there?????

Paul

 

[mccandmatt]

Thanks for the reply Mr. Long. Lining it makes sense, yes I used 2 layers of 6-7 ounce for the welts

Matt

 

[leatherman]

Did you make a groove for the thread to sit down into on the inside? I have one of those groovers that looks like a pen so I can groove anywhere I want to with little effort. Here is what I am talking about:
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/88074-11.aspx

It sure helps keep the stitches out of the way.

I also pound the stitches in with my mallet or rub them in with my bone folder. Helps them settle in.

 

[mccandmatt]

Did you make a groove for the thread to sit down into on the inside? I have one of those groovers that looks like a pen so I can groove anywhere I want to with little effort. Here is what I am talking about:
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/88074-11.aspx

It sure helps keep the stitches out of the way.

I also pound the stitches in with my mallet or rub them in with my bone folder. Helps them settle in.

I grooved on the outside with Tandy Pro Adjustable groover but not on the inside, did not even think of it to be honest. Next one I will, I did not pound or rub the stitches but I did run an overstitcher on all of them. Thanks for the tip

 

[leatherman]

That groove will make all the difference in the world. I have both the older version of yours they called the saddle groover where the cutter is on the adjustable part instead of on the tool itself. I can see lots of advantages to having it on the tool in that you can remove the guide and use the tool like I use my little pen type. I love multi-taskers!

Dont get carried away with your groove, just enough depth to let the thread sink down to level it with the leather, that includes the back stitches. Too deep and you will encounter the dreaded pull through.

The overstitch wheel is mostly for defining the stitches after they have been pressed in, so its a great tool after all your other stuff is done. On the inside your aim is to get them even with the leather, no need to make them look good on the inside.

These things I learned from many mentors including Dave Cole (RIP) Gary Graley (sp?) and so many others to thank for getting me where I am. These folks only hand stitch(ed) and taught me well.

 

[mccandmatt]

That groove will make all the difference in the world. I have both the older version of yours they called the saddle groover where the cutter is on the adjustable part instead of on the tool itself. I can see lots of advantages to having it on the tool in that you can remove the guide and use the tool like I use my little pen type. I love multi-taskers!

Dont get carried away with your groove, just enough depth to let the thread sink down to level it with the leather, that includes the back stitches. Too deep and you will encounter the dreaded pull through.

The overstitch wheel is mostly for defining the stitches after they have been pressed in, so its a great tool after all your other stuff is done. On the inside your aim is to get them even with the leather, no need to make them look good on the inside.

These things I learned from many mentors including Dave Cole (RIP) Gary Graley (sp?) and so many others to thank for getting me where I am. These folks only hand stitch(ed) and taught me well.

Good advice, yeah a pull through would not be fun.

I have been thinking about going into a saddle shop right around the corner from me and getting to know them, see if I can spend a few hours here and there to learn a bit if they're not busy. Hell I would clean their shop and take out garbage if it meant I could learn.

 

[sheathmaker]

I have been thinking about going into a saddle shop right around the corner from me and getting to know them, see if I can spend a few hours here and there to learn a bit if they're not busy. Hell I would clean their shop and take out garbage if it meant I could learn.

That is an excellent idea. I was already very well experienced (I thought) and when I retired I went by the Boot and Saddle shop of Don Atkinson, a Master boot and saddle maker and all things leather and suggested I would work for free. Two years later I could make anything I wanted to and did. Saddles, horse tack, chaps, chinks, the works. Probably the most valuable lesson I learned was how to make a paper pattern and never cut leather until the pattern is complete.....but I'm rambling.

If you can make it happen it will sky rocket you forward in the craft.

Paul

 

[mccandmatt]

That is an excellent idea. I was already very well experienced (I thought) and when I retired I went by the Boot and Saddle shop of Don Atkinson, a Master boot and saddle maker and all things leather and suggested I would work for free. Two years later I could make anything I wanted to and did. Saddles, horse tack, chaps, chinks, the works. Probably the most valuable lesson I learned was how to make a paper pattern and never cut leather until the pattern is complete.....but I'm rambling.

If you can make it happen it will sky rocket you forward in the craft.

Paul

Thanks for the reassurance, I am planning on going in Monday morning to at the very least introduce myself