my third knife

T

The_cutting_edge

Joined
May 25, 2009
Messages
389
I'm very happy with how this came out. It is dead on at 8" OAL with a 4" BL steel is 440c Heat treated by Rob! at knifemaker.ca. It was tested at 60.5 Rc I gave it a 500 grit satin finish then exactly 3 passes in the same direction as the 500 grit scratches on the buffer with white compound. Handle scales are walnut. still need to get some sort of finnish on the handle and make a pair of pants for it. but other than that it's all but done.









 
You guys are killing me with your early knives. Your third knife is better than my 15th :eek:

A question if I may.... why 60rc? I don't work SS at all but it seems high for anything but a kitchen blade.

A tip on the J hooks you have in your plunge. When I make my last passes on a grit I have a chisel edge brass bar, I wrap it in the paper make a SLOW pass starting at the end of the ricasso, slowly flowing it into the plunge and beyond the tip. When the main grind is clean then I use the brass bar flat against the ricasso at a 45 degree angle so that stays on the ricasso as you go out on the secondary grind. Make sure your passes are full and straight. Make sure you don't tilt the bar and it will sharpen up the transitions.

GREAT JOB!!!! I hope you're not offended by my question and suggestions.
 
I actualy didn't want it ah high as 60 I had requested 58 but it came back 60 and I was told by a few on here that 60 would be fine so I left it be.

Will Leavitt said:
You guys are killing me with your early knives. Your third knife is better than my 15th :eek:

A question if I may.... why 60rc? I don't work SS at all but it seems high for anything but a kitchen blade.

A tip on the J hooks you have in your plunge. When I make my last passes on a grit I have a chisel edge brass bar, I wrap it in the paper make a SLOW pass starting at the end of the ricasso, slowly flowing it into the plunge and beyond the tip. When the main grind is clean then I use the brass bar flat against the ricasso at a 45 degree angle so that stays on the ricasso as you go out on the secondary grind. Make sure your passes are full and straight. Make sure you don't tilt the bar and it will sharpen up the transitions.

GREAT JOB!!!! I hope you're not offended by my question and suggestions.
Click to expand...
 
Will Leavitt said:
You guys are killing me with your early knives. Your third knife is better than my 15th :eek:

A question if I may.... why 60rc? I don't work SS at all but it seems high for anything but a kitchen blade.

A tip on the J hooks you have in your plunge. When I make my last passes on a grit I have a chisel edge brass bar, I wrap it in the paper make a SLOW pass starting at the end of the ricasso, slowly flowing it into the plunge and beyond the tip. When the main grind is clean then I use the brass bar flat against the ricasso at a 45 degree angle so that stays on the ricasso as you go out on the secondary grind. Make sure your passes are full and straight. Make sure you don't tilt the bar and it will sharpen up the transitions.

GREAT JOB!!!! I hope you're not offended by my question and suggestions.
Click to expand...

I've been having a problem with those J hooks. it's hard to sand it using a bar because it's hollow ground on a 10" wheel. I've been thinking about trying to make a piece of wood or somthing with the same curve. but I have no band saw or realy anything to cut a smooth radius
 
2 options that I can think of:

Go to an art store and get some polymer clay. Shape it to fit on the blade radius, heat it in an oven then you have a sanding block.

In Canada you probably have access to hockey pucks (kinda hard to find in the Deep South where I live ;) ) cut it with a hacksaw and file it to fit.
 
I found that one of those little round rubber sanding blocks has a 8" radius on the backside where ya hold it, you could use that and just blend it. might actually be better to use a smaller radius to keep the lines crisp?
 
I'd think a smaller radii block would have a tendency to cause a groove.

Tracy Mickley or Todd Begg (can't remember which one) sells a steel sanding block in whatever radius you need.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I need to figure something out to deal with these scratches. Also what would you guys suggest as a good finish for this walnut wood? Never used unsatbilized wood handles before.
 
Here's a couple better pix now that the handle got finished and I fixed up the fish hooks. Much better I think.
DSCN0942.jpg

DSCN0938.jpg

DSCN0945.jpg
 
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