My week old Inbred RC-4!!

S

scotsmanspride

Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
639
Well made you look! I have had this freakin thing for a week and look at what i went and did. I kept seeing pics of the RC-5 but like the aspects of the 4 but just had to get the bow drill divot....and after being on this website for about 3 weeks i am a convex addict....well you guessed it. I did that too. After the strop this thing is almost scary sharp.:eek:
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Looks like a simple countersink job. How did it take to the micarta? Does it shape easily? Anyhow, super cool mod! Now show us how the divot works out!
 
Just went to harbor freight and got a 99 cent 1/2 inch countersink bit. took off the handles. Drilled a pilot hole after about 10 times measuring to be OCD sure it was centered. Then ran the countersink until it was the width that i liked. Kinda had with the handles being thinner but I dont see an issue as long as I cut the drill right. The top edge still had a few linen fuzzies after that so some 1000 grit paper and it was all cleaned up great. We will see how it works. It still feels good in the hand. eventuall I am going to make some new handles that will be thicker in width like the RC-6.Well today i am going to start on a new leather sheath. No one is doing a horizontal carry so off i go making my own. One company already makes one but there is no way I will ever pay $200 for one when I have more RC's to add!:)
 
Good stuff. We first did the bow drill divot on Micarta handles on the Laser Strike knife many years ago. Everyone said that Micarta would not work so I tested it extensively in a vice with a drill and various spindles. It gets hot and blackens but it does work in a pinch, and that's one less component you have to find in the wilds should you have to use friction to build a fire.
 
One could always pre-lube it I'd think. would the micarta take a wax like wood? I've worked paraffin wax into yo-yo axles to reduce friction, seemed to help
 
well just in using oil on my knife the front part of the handles soaked alot up so I dont see why it wouldnt. probably just rub alot in there and use a drill at home to work it into the fibers. It is not something that i will probably use much but like the post before said. If the S*&^ hits the fan and I need to really survive then every step I can take now might just mean the difference in a real life situation.
 
on the other hand, I'm sure someone could turn a brass insert that would fit in hole in the scale. have a lip on the brass piece and a grove on the scale so that once the scale is attached there is no way for it to fall out. too many ideas, not any shop space.
 
Congrats on the RC-4. Having managed a couple of times to start a fire by friction, I truly consider it a "last ditch" method. Every pack, and kit I have has tinder, life boat matches, mag block, swedish fire steel, small bic, and Ritter's little striker in it. I would really, really hate to have to rely on a bow drill to start a fire. That being said, I think it is a good addition to a knife handle because it costs basically nothing, doesn't hurt the asthetics, and could come in really handy in the event every other method was unavailable.
 
If you use some green leaves in the divot it will provide enough lube to work. Totally agree with BigB above. I carry a range of fire lighting aids. A drill works under favourable conditions but give me a bic lighter in the rain any day!
 
I have considered adding a bow divot as well. Being right handed, I was thinking of placing it on the right side scale, to keep the edge away from the bow movement, and a bit closer to the blade. I figured my palm would feel no change, but my fingers might notice the divot. I noticed that you went deep enough to expose the steel. I guess the steel provides less friction than the handle material. Interesting mod.
 
Sandpaper and mousepad and then the leather strop. It took an hour or two of time but no biggie. Started with the 500 to knock the edge down. then on to the 1000 dry and then wet. then 1500 and 2000. then did the strop with white and then green buffing compound from sears. I practiced on a gerber axe and another knife before this. didnt seem to have any trouble messing up the finish on it. Now it cuts like a freakin champ and holds an edge oh so well. Tried to shave half my face with it the other day and it did pretty good. Little large to do a great job.
 
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