Recommendation? n00b S35VN sharpening gear recs

[Rete]

Heyup,

I'm new to knife sharpening and have been slogging away at my ZT 0450's dull edge with a Spyderco Double Stuff (V1). For quite some time. It's a bit sharper but still dull as dishwater.

I've since read on these very forums that for a steel like S35VN, tougher measures and indeed tougher abrasives (if that's the right word) are required, such as diamond-based gear like
this geezer employed, but some of the replies as to what sharpening gear to use bewilder meto be honest, lol.
Hence I believe something like the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener would be a good fit as it has diamond plates and angle guides to aid a n00b like me (I have a strop).

But I do not wish to waste $35 so I thought I'd beg someone knowledgeable's opinion!

FTR I have watched several recommended sharpening videos multiple times and have followed them to the best of my abilities.

Much obliged!

 

[gamma_nyc]

The work sharp looks like a nice piece of kit. I have their electric worksharp. It is well made and it puts beautiful convexed edges on my bark rivers.

One consideration is that if you want to use the guided work sharp in your link, is that those angles may not work well for hollow ground blades in the future. But with some practice you will get it.

As a beginner you may do better with a KME or wicked edge, just to make sure you are getting the angles consistent. There is a slight trick about changing the angle as you sharpen the belly. I’ve been learning for years and still room to improve.

Just be patient and stick to the fundamentals. Set the angle, press lightly and let the stones do the work. One trick I learned here is to use a sharpie marker to “paint” the edge black. As you sharpen take care to make sure you are actually reaching the edge (obvious when you remove the marker “paint”). Otherwise you may be honing the bevel and that’s probably why your ZT is not getting much sharper. Also, it takes a little longer than you may think when using fine stones and light pressure....like 5-10 minutes of methodical, consistent and light sharpening motion.

lastly, one of the best budget tricks I’ve tried is to just get some 800 grit wet/dry sand paper and clamp to your strop. Use the right sharpening angle with the paper, then strop. Super cheap yet effective if you maintain your angles.

last thing - practice on a cheap knife first. It will probably be easier to sharpen and if you screw it up you won’t be as mad.

 

[Rete]

The work sharp looks like a nice piece of kit. I have their electric worksharp. It is well made and it puts beautiful convexed edges on my bark rivers.

Thanks gamma, much obliged for the info

As a beginner you may do better with a KME or wicked edge

bloody hell those are expensive. My most expensive knife is my Manix 2 at ~$140 so these feel a little excessive at this juncture. I’ve no idea how my knife obsession will play out and don’t want to splurge just yet. Although, if you asked my missus, she’d say it’s too late for that no doubt… lol

Just be patient and stick to the fundamentals. Set the angle, press lightly and let the stones do the work.

Gotcha. I’ve tried to be patient but it feels like I’m not making real progress and and just pissing in the wind somewhat :/

One trick I learned here is to use a sharpie marker to “paint” the edge black. As you sharpen take care to make sure you are actually reaching the edge (obvious when you remove the marker “paint”).

Yes, I saw this one on a vid as well and have utilised it - a very nice trick indeed.

Also, it takes a little longer than you may think when using fine stones and light pressure....like 5-10 minutes of methodical, consistent and light sharpening motion.

AHA. That sounds more like it. The videos I’ve watched are like “… 10 strokes this side, then 10 the other side, repeat and you’re done.” - and that ain’t my experience at all. I’m assuming they were sharpening AUS-8 or similar?

lastly, one of the best budget tricks I’ve tried is to just get some 800 grit wet/dry sand paper and clamp to your strop. Use the right sharpening angle with the paper, then strop. Super cheap yet effective if you maintain your angles.

Wait, so would this be in place of the work sharp? Sounds like it is. For me tho I’d have to invest in a clamp (my son “helpfully” disassembled the one I had when he was 5…).

last thing - practice on a cheap knife first. It will probably be easier to sharpen and if you screw it up you won’t be as mad.

Yeah… wish I’d heard this before I scratched up the bevel/grind on the 0450 Like an idiot, because my Rat I was already very sharp, I didn’t want to dullen it. And so I buggered the 5x more expensive blade. Yay!

Cheers again,
PK

 

[Craig James]

Get a couple of diamond bench stones or a double sided diamond stone. Personally I’d always go for an 8x3 plate but that’s going to set you back $60-90. DMT, AToma, EZESharp etc. You’ll want a coarse and fine stone, or at the very least a coarse. 6inch stones or field sharpener sizes are cheaper but harder to put a consistent edge on with. For example I suck using my DMT diafold.

Never used the worksharp you linked but bear in mind the angle of your factory bevel is unlikely to be 20degrees.

Edited to add that wet/dry sandpaper will work but will be slow on that particular steel and only good below the 400 grit mark. I’ve used it and find it a bit of a pain. If your knife is dull you’ll go through a fair few sheets of it. You could probably rub that knife against the double stuff for a couple of weeks and still not get anywhere, even if you match the existing bevel...

 

[gamma_nyc]

Thanks gamma, much obliged for the info



bloody hell those are expensive. My most expensive knife is my Manix 2 at ~$140 so these feel a little excessive at this juncture. I’ve no idea how my knife obsession will play out and don’t want to splurge just yet. Although, if you asked my missus, she’d say it’s too late for that no doubt… lol



Gotcha. I’ve tried to be patient but it feels like I’m not making real progress and and just pissing in the wind somewhat :/



Yes, I saw this one on a vid as well and have utilised it - a very nice trick indeed.



AHA. That sounds more like it. The videos I’ve watched are like “… 10 strokes this side, then 10 the other side, repeat and you’re done.” - and that ain’t my experience at all. I’m assuming they were sharpening AUS-8 or similar?



Wait, so would this be in place of the work sharp? Sounds like it is. For me tho I’d have to invest in a clamp (my son “helpfully” disassembled the one I had when he was 5…).



Yeah… wish I’d heard this before I scratched up the bevel/grind on the 0450 Like an idiot, because my Rat I was already very sharp, I didn’t want to dullen it. And so I buggered the 5x more expensive blade. Yay!

Cheers again,
PK

You can just use push pins to pin the wet dry paper to a mouse pad, or a chip clip (or even your hand) to hold the wet/dry paper to your strop. The softer the medium under the wet/dry paper (And harder you push) the more convex your edge is going to be.