name stamp

A

amcjavelin401

Joined
Dec 24, 2006
Messages
51
I'm looking to get a custom stamp made with my last name. 8 charaters
Right now i'm just doing fixed blade hunting knives.
I called Evers they were real friendly but I decided to hold off and get
some advice from you guys before I shell out the 158 for the stamp
and 175 for there holding fixture.
Whats the best way ? to press it or smack it with a hammer.
I have a 2 ton arbor press and a 20 ton hydraulic.
Also I am concerned about the size. I want it legible and professional
looking.
At this point I have just used the cheap steel stamps and put my
initials in them.
 
Don't think the arbor press will do it by itself. If you press it down and then hit the ram with a hammer nice and hard, that works. You can also use hydraulic press for this.
Look around. You should be able to get a 7-letter stamp (assuming it's not really big) for about $80 to $100.
 
Hello: Amcjavelin401


Go to my Website and click on the Knife Makers Supplies. You can get the stamp that you are in need of from there. And by the way also, check out my knife shop and you can see the press I use. If you need more help just email me or you can call on the phone. You can get that as well on my site. Hope this was of help to you. Have a safe day in the shop and God bless.

Barkes :thumbup:
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard
 
I don't want to change the topic, I was wondering if anyone has used the grinder that is listed on the riverside website?
 
I was just looking at the NGraver website tonight for some engraving tools, and I saw that his price list includes some very reasonably priced name stamps. The list is marked 2002, so I don't know if there have been any increases, but it would probably be worthwhile to call him. I heard he's a nice guy.

This is from his price list:
CUSTOM STEEL STAMPS, our own make, Allow 10 days
No. 1, 1-4 figures.... 35.00 ; No.2, 5-8 fig. 40.00 ; No.3, 9-12 fig. 45.00
STEEL STAMP SETS, FIGURES, Specify Size, ................................. 16.00
LETTERS, Specify Size, ................................. 45.00
SPECIAL CUSTOM STAMPS, Send design for prompt quote and delivery info.
 
[/CUSTOM STEEL STAMPS, our own make, Allow 10 days
No. 1, 1-4 figures.... 35.00 ; No.2, 5-8 fig. 40.00 ; No.3, 9-12 fig. 45.00
STEEL STAMP SETS, FIGURES, Specify Size, ................................. 16.00
LETTERS, Specify Size, ................................. 45.00
SPECIAL CUSTOM STAMPS, Send design for prompt quote and delivery info.
QUOTE]
At those prices it would be a steal compared to what I paid.
Matt Doyle
Click to expand...
 
Chris Meyer said:
I was just looking at the NGraver website tonight for some engraving tools, and I saw that his price list includes some very reasonably priced name stamps. The list is marked 2002, so I don't know if there have been any increases, but it would probably be worthwhile to call him. I heard he's a nice guy.

This is from his price list:
CUSTOM STEEL STAMPS, our own make, Allow 10 days
No. 1, 1-4 figures.... 35.00 ; No.2, 5-8 fig. 40.00 ; No.3, 9-12 fig. 45.00
STEEL STAMP SETS, FIGURES, Specify Size, ................................. 16.00
LETTERS, Specify Size, ................................. 45.00
SPECIAL CUSTOM STAMPS, Send design for prompt quote and delivery info.
Click to expand...

The kind of stamp that you are speaking about is not for knife making. The hardness of the steel is not right for applying pressure. This creates additional problems in the stamp, causing it to wear down. Not so nice. There is a another issues that I need to bring to your attention and that is. In stamping your blades you need a holder that will support the structure of the stamp. You can not just use a hammer on the stamp. You may on brass, silver, copper, leather and guards for identification purposes, and things of this nature, but not steel. When you stamp your name on your knife you need it to be sharp and even all around. You can not achieve this with a hammer. It need to be pressed in. I hope this was helpful to you and has answered your questions. Have a great day and be safe in the shop. God bless

Barkes
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard
:)
 
Barkes, we have that same press where I work, we use it for press-fitting bearings and bushings and stuff. Could you explain step-by-step how to use it to press a tang stamp, please? I've always wondered if the steel has to be hot? I presume you stamp it before heat-treat? Am I making this way more complicated than it really is? Dumb questions maybe but how else will I find out! :D
 
Barkes,

NGraver's stamps may or may not be the proper hardness for stamping blades, but I don't see how you could determine that from the quote I posted. I checked further on the NGraver site and found this additional information;

SPECIAL CUSTOM STAMPS
Trademarks, Logos, Signature, Name Stamps, Caliber marking, etc. We offer a custom service in supplying trademark or logo stamps. These can be your design or we can help you create a special stamp to add a professional touch and distinguish your hard work or product. Send a self-addressed, stamped envelope for a prompt quote. After we receive your order, any stamp can be delivered within two weeks. Our stamps are carefully hand-made, not a headed type. They cut clean, sharp impressions, are properly heat treated and will give thousands of strikes. Our stamps are used by gunsmiths, knifemakers, jewelers, metal workers, leather craftsmen, woodcarvers, anyone needing a fine, durable custom steel stamp.

logos.jpg

Please note that I don't know the guy at NGraver and have no connection to his business. I am quoting from his site for informational purposes only. Also, I changed the font color on "knifemakers" to draw attention to it.
 
Barkes I'll check it out tonight when I get home.
Going to get a blade heat treated now.
Thanks for the info. (too all)
Tim
 
Gibsonfan,
If you are using a press it does not need to be heated. Just center your stamp and press it in. Generally around 1400psi, but that also depends on the steel you are using. Yes prior to heat treat. Also yes you are making a big deal out of it.:D Not that complicated, but unless you know, you don't know!:thumbup:
Matt
 
GibsonFan said:
Barkes, we have that same press where I work, we use it for press-fitting bearings and bushings and stuff. Could you explain step-by-step how to use it to press a tang stamp, please? I've always wondered if the steel has to be hot? I presume you stamp it before heat-treat? Am I making this way more complicated than it really is? Dumb questions maybe but how else will I find out! :D
Click to expand...

Do all before heat treat. Cut, stamp, holes, that's it. Do that and you will be a happy knife Maker...:jerkit:

Barkes
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard
:thumbup:
 
Chris Meyer said:
Barkes,

NGraver's stamps may or may not be the proper hardness for stamping blades, but I don't see how you could determine that from the quote I posted. I checked further on the NGraver site and found this additional information;

SPECIAL CUSTOM STAMPS
Trademarks, Logos, Signature, Name Stamps, Caliber marking, etc. We offer a custom service in supplying trademark or logo stamps. These can be your design or we can help you create a special stamp to add a professional touch and distinguish your hard work or product. Send a self-addressed, stamped envelope for a prompt quote. After we receive your order, any stamp can be delivered within two weeks. Our stamps are carefully hand-made, not a headed type. They cut clean, sharp impressions, are properly heat treated and will give thousands of strikes. Our stamps are used by gunsmiths, knifemakers, jewelers, metal workers, leather craftsmen, woodcarvers, anyone needing a fine, durable custom steel stamp.

logos.jpg

Please note that I don't know the guy at NGraver and have no connection to his business. I am quoting from his site for informational purposes only. Also, I changed the font color on "knifemakers" to draw attention to it.
Click to expand...

I have over 50 type of stamps here in my shop. some are for leather and some are for stamping blades. I have been there and played in that Movie.

Barkes
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard/knifeshop.htm
:thumbup:
 
I just hit my stamps with a 1lb hammer, it can go a bit wonky but that adds to the character! I have noticed on many old Sheffield made knives that the trade marks are seldom completely straight, another hand made characteristic. I had my name stamp made by an old Sheffield firm that probably made a lot of the stamps seen on old Sheffield knives, I rather like that connection.
 
mdoyle and Barkes, thanks for answering without making fun of me(much). I know enough to admit when I don't know, if that makes sense. :)
 
I used to use a stamp but quit in favor of the electro-chem etcher.

1. After you hit your blade with the stamp, you have to straighten it again.

2. You're pretty much limited in where you can make your mark on the knife.

3. If you have to "adjust" the knife later, you may affect your mark.
 
R.Coon-Knives said:
I used to use a stamp but quit in favor of the electro-chem etcher.

1. After you hit your blade with the stamp, you have to straighten it again.

2. You're pretty much limited in where you can make your mark on the knife.

3. If you have to "adjust" the knife later, you may affect your mark.
Click to expand...

I have no problem with marking my blades. And yes sometime if you applied to much pressured you can bend the blade of a knife. But I have a way around that problem as well. I alway check the flatness of my knives on a granite stone, In doing so I know it is flat and straight. If you utilize a hammer to straighten out the bend just do not hit that area of the stamp. Just a little practice and you will figure it out.

Barkes
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard
:thumbup:
 
I personally use vinal sticers from a local sighn shop. to mask the area then I appy a solution of 12 parts boiling H2o 3 parts TSP(trisodiumphospate)and 4 parts sodium chloride(table salt) then I run an electric current through the knife (18v DC) and apply an annode wraped in felt to the blade for a few mins. This will electrochemicaly etch your name up toabou 0.030" into the surface. And yes it works on stainless steel.
 
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