Nano Oil Weight Differences?

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May 1, 2016
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So I am about to dive in and buy some Nano Oil, I was wondering what the different weights/viscosity levels actually mean in terms of performance?

Why do they sell 3 weights?
What weight is used for what?

I cannot seem to find any information on the heaviest weight specifically, nobody talks about using it that I have found via google search.
 
I have & use all 3 grades of Nano-Oil, and this is what i have found so far with each of them:

- The lightest grade 5 oil is thin like water and specially designed for quick and deep penetration.
Made to loosen stuck parts and also for applications where other oils are too thick to penetrate well.
It will evaporate after some time while leaving the working Nano material behind to do it's job.

- The light grade 10 has about the thickness of olive oil, and can be used for folding knife pivots (tested by me), semi-automatic firearms/handguns (tested by me), rifles, threads on flashlights (tested by me), fishing reels (tested by my Australian friend), locks, hinges, bicycle chains, cables, cogwheels, etc. (tested by my brother in law)

- the heavy grade 85 is thick like syrup and is meant for full automatic guns like the M4 and a host of others (currently being tested in H&K MP5 and others by a few Dutch SWAT team members) as well as in applications where you would normally use grease, like in closed ball bearings for skateboards, rollerblades and inline skates. (tested by my nephew)
 
Does the heavier weight perform better at the cost of penetration?

Could I use the heavier weight on my pivots?

How long does it take for the 5 weight to evaporate and leave a film?

Can you mix the oils, like say you put some in a pivot and then a few months later you put a different one in not paying attention?

How does nano oil compare to Tuf Glide/Marine Tuf Glide, and Frog Lube CLP Liquid/Paste/Extreme Temperatures - in terms of lubrication performance, dryness, corrosion and rust prevention, dirt repellent, and longevity (how long it lasts before reapplication on a knife that is being used a lot, as well as the longevity question against, but a separate answer for long term storage knives)

Sorry for all the questions, I know it's a lot to some people! I get mocked on facebook "write a book why don't you" when I really go into certain subjects, or elaborate thoroughly on very simple subjects. I also ask a lot of questions so I can get as much information as possible.
 
How does nano oil compare to Tuf Glide/Marine Tuf Glide, and Frog Lube CLP Liquid/Paste/Extreme Temperatures - in terms of lubrication performance, dryness, corrosion and rust prevention, dirt repellent, and longevity (how long it lasts before reapplication on a knife that is being used a lot, as well as the longevity question against, but a separate answer for long term storage knives)

Ask yourself, if the sellers website doesn't answer these questions, is the answer important?Sorry for all the questions, I know it's a lot to some people! I get mocked on facebook "write a book why don't you" when I really go into certain subjects, or elaborate thoroughly on very simple subjects. I also ask a lot of questions so I can get as much information as possible.
Hi,
Does the sellers website answer these questions?

Lots of food for thought in Nano oil, fool me once...
 
Near as I can tell it is mineral oil.

You can get pure dimethylsiloxane silicon oil in viscosity from less than 10 cSt (thinner than water) all the way up to thicker than caulk. The stuff is pure silicone oil, we get ours from Clearco. It has a higher flash point than petroleum based materials and is very stable.

I'd send a question to the manufacturer and ask how their grades are comparable to centistokes (the industry standard viscosity rating), there are many charts online showing comparison to common liquids and this will give you a much better idea.

Edit:
most oils of common base ingredients can be mixed to get a blend of viscosity. You can mix a 10cSt with 30cSt in equal parts and get 20cSt.
 
This raises a question.
If there are different weights of mineral oil, how is that achieved.
Is it just a thinning process?
If so, what is used to thin?
 
I've always wondered how to thin mineral oil without mineral spirits (whatever that is), and keep it's original food grade properties.
 
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