nashville tennessee area axe repair

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Anybody know anybody good in this area for fixing up a bruks--clean the edge and convex it, primarily, although I am suspect about how well the head is affixed to the handle. I have absolutely no skills with working on axes or hatchets, so please don't tell my how I could do it-I will try to learn on one of my cheaper ones. Thanks.cwd
 
Axes are one of the most primitive tools going. If learning to tune-up and sharpen one 'is not your bag' then maybe investing in a gas powered saw or some such (that cost lots of money to buy, use, and to maintain) is where you should be headed. This is not necessarily a denigrating statement since millions of similarly-talented-impatient folks have already gone off in that direction before you.
You can cheaply buy an electric portable grinder and use a grinding (instead of cut-off) wheel to reshape the blade but oftentimes greenhorns entirely ruin the piece (temper of the steel and profile of the blade) or reduce the tool to shreds in a matter of minutes.
A hand file and stone can do wonders for you, and learning about wood joints all requires time and patience, and are well worth the effort.
 
Axes are one of the most primitive tools going. If learning to tune-up and sharpen one 'is not your bag' then maybe investing in a gas powered saw or some such (that cost lots of money to buy, use, and to maintain) is where you should be headed. This is not necessarily a denigrating statement

Riiight...

, so please don't tell my how I could do it-

Well, at least you tried...
 
But we do need to encourage and recruit enthusiastic folks into the Zen fold of enjoying to wield an axe! A boutique Swede jobbie is not a joke (like some of the stuff I've had to use over the years) and 'tuning it up' ought to be a piece of cake.
 
well, now that the obligatory beat-down non-response is out of the way...anybody got anything helpful?
 
There are several members on the forum here that do excellent restorations. I don't know of any in the Nashville area. But perhaps you could contact one of the guys here who's work you like and inquire if they would do the work for you. There are a handful of restorers here that do better work than I've seen anywhere else.
 
CW,
Do you have any bushcrafter friends in your area that could help?
Or if you post some pictures we could talk you through it
Or watch a few you tubes (look for ‘axe is back’)

If you tackle the job by hand you can’t go too far wrong :thumbup:

I know this doesn’t answer your question but you might surprise your self
 
There are several members on the forum here that do excellent restorations. I don't know of any in the Nashville area. But perhaps you could contact one of the guys here who's work you like and inquire if they would do the work for you. There are a handful of restorers here that do better work than I've seen anywhere else.

How do I find the names-just do some constructive word searches? If I need to, I can send it by post.
 
CW,
Do you have any bushcrafter friends in your area that could help?
Or if you post some pictures we could talk you through it
Or watch a few you tubes (look for ‘axe is back’)

If you tackle the job by hand you can’t go too far wrong :thumbup:

I know this doesn’t answer your question but you might surprise your self


I fully intend to develop some passable skills in this area. But, not with this hatchet-too valuable for a first-time shot.
 
I think one of the main advantages of the GB axes is that they come with a proper edge (for certain soft woods) so it should be relatively easy to sharpen. Using a marker and a very fine stone like the Fallkniven DC4 should work because you're not wearing away the steel quickly and the marks give you a gauge to go by for proper angle until you get used to the sound and feel.

That's not the advice you want to read, I know, but eventually you'll have to learn unless you want to spend the cost of an axe on each repair. If you need to reprofile that's a different story, and rehanging can be quite difficult at first.

As square_peg said, someone on the forum should be able to help you. Otherwise there are very few people who can properly grind an axe anyways, so the only other option would be the timbersports people. That's probably your best option, find someone on this forum who is local and can show you through the process. You'll learn by watching them.
 
Axes are one of the most primitive tools going. If learning to tune-up and sharpen one 'is not your bag' then maybe investing in a gas powered saw or some such (that cost lots of money to buy, use, and to maintain) is where you should be headed. This is not necessarily a denigrating statement since millions of similarly-talented-impatient folks have already gone off in that direction before you.
You can cheaply buy an electric portable grinder and use a grinding (instead of cut-off) wheel to reshape the blade but oftentimes greenhorns entirely ruin the piece (temper of the steel and profile of the blade) or reduce the tool to shreds in a matter of minutes.
A hand file and stone can do wonders for you, and learning about wood joints all requires time and patience, and are well worth the effort.

Well, that's what I get for "axing" a silly question!
 
Well, that's what I get for "axing" a silly question!

Not necessarily. You've got a top drawer axe in hand (a current version or maybe a vintage HB) and mere patient application of an axe file can and will get your baby all tuned up and ready for the road. If shaving sharp is your aim then an axe puck or some such (honing stone) also enters the equation. Very few folks use modern version Swede axes for grubbing in the ground (and accidentally hit rocks and stones) so you really shouldn't be all that far away from enjoying your own lovely and sharp axe. Axes aren't meant to be surgeon's scalpels that have to be able to split hairs.
I sharpen my own saw chains with a round file (and a flat file to set the height of the rakers). Have done this for 35 years. A commercial shop that uses jigs and electric grinders can buzz through chains like there is no tomorrow. My labour-time-intensive method costs about $50 every once a decade whereas 'presto' commercial re-sharpening requires you buy a new chain every 6 months on top of continually paying to resharpen them.
 
I was just making a pun, sorry.

Haha...I saw what you were getting at.

I agree with Square_peg...do some searching on some of the refurb/restos here and try contacting the posters. I'm sure someone will be happy to help, though you may have to ship it in the event there isn't anyone near you.
 
Can we see the head and get an idea of your expectations? I'm assuming it's an older head? I'd do it for the cost of shipping and materials.
 
They still make Bruks', as far as I know. If you 'mess it up'... Meh, they make more every day.

Why would you buy a tool that you plan on using if you arent ready to see it get messed up? Part of using a tool is knowing/learning how to keep it functional. If you were ready to own a bruks, you are ready to take a file to one. If you cant sharpen an axe, why buy an expensive one? I cant understand this mindset.
 
They still make Bruks', as far as I know. If you 'mess it up'... Meh, they make more every day.

Why would you buy a tool that you plan on using if you arent ready to see it get messed up? Part of using a tool is knowing/learning how to keep it functional. If you were ready to own a bruks, you are ready to take a file to one. If you cant sharpen an axe, why buy an expensive one? I cant understand this mindset.


Firstly I don't know what "meh" means but I am sure it means the "meh-er" is on a higher plane than the "meh-ee." Secondly, you want to send me the replacement cost for a mini-hatchet if I mess it up? Then I will dig right in. Thirdly, you don't know how "messed up" it is, and I concede some pictures would help, but the damage is, from my perspective, pretty bad. Fourthly, I bought it because I wanted to. Fifthly, I was not asking you to analyze my purchases or my mindset-it's not your you-know-what business. Lastly, I was asking for help, not a put-down, so if you can't or won't help, why take the time to answer?
 
Got some good leads so this thread has served its purpose-need to lock it as it has become too negative. Thanks for the help.cwd
 
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