Natlek's wa handle jig

[Hubert S.]

A while ago, Natlek posted a method he used to make d-handles, which he called the "D-handle grinding jig". Today, I made a similar jig to see if it would work for octagonal handles. It is nothing fancy, just a couple of steel templates that are temporarily glued to either end of the handle blank, and then used as guides for grinding. I tested it out on a piece cut off from a 2x4.

Aligning the templates was surprisingly easy. I used thick superglue and once I had the template positioned in the center, I sprayed a little activator. Grinding the handle took less than five minutes and the result looks really good. I plan to make a couple more test handles with this method before I commit to making a handle from the ebony, but I think this will work well. In my previous wa handle attempts, I had a hard time getting the corners even.

 

[3fifty7]

I somehow missed the original thread so thanks for bring this back up.

 

[Natlek]

A while ago, Natlek posted a method he used to make d-handles, which he called the "D-handle grinding jig". Today, I made a similar jig to see if it would work for octagonal handles. It is nothing fancy, just a couple of steel templates that are temporarily glued to either end of the handle blank, and then used as guides for grinding. I tested it out on a piece cut off from a 2x4.

Aligning the templates was surprisingly easy. I used thick superglue and once I had the template positioned in the center, I sprayed a little activator. Grinding the handle took less than five minutes and the result looks really good. I plan to make a couple more test handles with this method before I commit to making a handle from the ebony, but I think this will work well. In my previous wa handle attempts, I had a hard time getting the corners even.

I'm glad that my simple invention helped you I think that best use of it is if you grind shape in vertical position on grinder .....If you have disk sander and adjustable work rest would be best.

I have other small tool which is very useful...to keep handle/blade straight in line and handle symmetrical.No need for explanation how it works , this is my wood scriber........best thing is you can use it in any moment while you work on handle shape to check symmetry .Most time i use it on hidden tang construction knife

 

[Hubert S.]

I'm glad that my simple invention helped you I think that best use of it is if you grind shape in vertical position on grinder .....If you have dick sander and adjustable work rest would be best.

I ground the test piece in the vertical position on the 2x72. I do not have a disk sander big enough for a wa handle. Honestly, without the template I think I might have the same problem on a disk sander as on the belt. I notice one facet is too small, make it a little bigger, then notice another one does not look quite right, try to fix that and before you know it I'm left with a wa handle for a paring knife... Your template trick prevents that from happening and seems to work pretty well. Thank you!

I was not sure if your method would work well for an octagon as slight asymmetry is much more noticeable than with an oval or a D-handle. So far, it looks like it is not an issue. I rushed making the template yesterday and the one for the front needs a bit of tweaking. One of the corners is shorter than the rest of them (the bottom one in the picture) and that obviously transfers to the handle.

Your marking tool is neat, I use a little bit less elegant jig that mostly consists of a threaded 1-2-3 block.

 

[weo]

If you have dick sander and adjustable work rest would be best

Oy! I don't want a picture of that tool....
(j/k Natlek...laughing at the typo, not the language difference)

 

[Natlek]

I ground the test piece in the vertical position on the 2x72. I do not have a disk sander big enough for a wa handle. Honestly, without the template I think I might have the same problem on a disk sander as on the belt. I notice one facet is too small, make it a little bigger, then notice another one does not look quite right, try to fix that and before you know it I'm left with a wa handle for a paring knife... Your template trick prevents that from happening and seems to work pretty well. Thank you!

I was not sure if your method would work well for an octagon as slight asymmetry is much more noticeable than with an oval or a D-handle. So far, it looks like it is not an issue. I rushed making the template yesterday and the one for the front needs a bit of tweaking. One of the corners is shorter than the rest of them (the bottom one in the picture) and that obviously transfers to the handle.

Your marking tool is neat, I use a little bit less elegant jig that mostly consists of a threaded 1-2-3 block.

Sometimes thing don t go as we expected .Sometimes after we glue handle we can see that handle is not parallel with blade ..There this wood scriber will help to make it right .I use it on every knife I make with hidden tang ....

 

[golfer1]

Not being a long time knife maker I'm confused by how you use your jig. Could you give an explanation for dummies?

 

[Richard338]

Not being a long time knife maker I'm confused by how you use your jig. Could you give an explanation for dummies?

Look at the photo in the OP. If you glue octagonal metal pieces to a round or square piece of wood, then by grinding the wood until you just reach the metal guides, you will achieve the desired shape.
I did the same thing for a round dagger handle. I drilled a hole right through and then put washers of the right diameter onto a rod. Then you can grind the wood to shape.

 

[Hubert S.]

Look at the photo in the OP. If you glue octagonal metal pieces to a round or square piece of wood, then by grinding the wood until you just reach the metal guides, you will achieve the desired shape.
I did the same thing for a round dagger handle. I drilled a hole right through and then put washers of the right diameter onto a rod. Then you can grind the wood to shape.

That's exactly how it works. The metal templates can be removed after grinding the handle to shape. Superglue comes off by tapping the metal piece on the workbench somewhat forcefully if you only use a couple of drops. If you use a lot of glue, you have to use a good impact.

 

[Hubert S.]

I fixed the templates and made another handle today. To make the corners even, I clamped a 1-2-3 block to the work rest at a 45 degree angle and then clamped a piece of metal scrap as a stop block. Was pretty quick and came out even.

Grinding the handle worked just as well as yesterday.

 

[Natlek]

I fixed the templates and made another handle today. To make the corners even, I clamped a 1-2-3 block to the work rest at a 45 degree angle and then clamped a piece of metal scrap as a stop block. Was pretty quick and came out even.

Grinding the handle worked just as well as yesterday.

Well..... please be careful with ebony , I will feel guilty if you mess up

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Good simple solution to shaping a wa handle.

Similar mounted jigs are used to do multi-faceted and spiral grooved handles. They have shaped template plates on the ends to guide shaping as per the desired pattern and usually can be rotated on a spindle going through the handle. I'll try and locate mine and post a photo ... if I can find what box it is in righ now.

As in any precision shaping, indexing the two end pattern plates is very important (unless you are making a spiral).

 

[Richard338]

Good simple solution to shaping a wa handle.

Similar mounted jigs are used to do multi-faceted and spiral grooved handles. They have shaped template plates on the ends to guide shaping as per the desired pattern and usually can be rotated on a spindle going through the handle. I'll try and locate mine and post a photo ... if I can find what box it is in righ now.

As in any precision shaping, indexing the two end pattern plates is very important (unless you are making a spiral).

Steve Culver has a 3 part pdf tutorial on spiral fluted dagger handles, exactly as you describe.
I followed it once with wood, and have one in progress with mammoth.

 

[scott kozub]

I really like this idea and it seems really simple. How do you hake sure the plates on either end are aligned though? I could see if the block had 2 square sides you could use those for alignment but I typically drill a hole through the center of my block before shaping so that wouldn't work. I'd see this even tougher with a D handle.

I must be missing something.

Aligning the templates was surprisingly easy. I used thick superglue and once I had the template positioned in the center, I sprayed a little activator. Grinding the handle took less than five minutes and the result looks really good. I plan to make a couple more test handles with this method before I commit to making a handle from the ebony, but I think this will work well. In my previous wa handle attempts, I had a hard time getting the corners even.

[/QUOTE]

 

[Hubert S.]

I really like this idea and it seems really simple. How do you hake sure the plates on either end are aligned though? I could see if the block had 2 square sides you could use those for alignment but I typically drill a hole through the center of my block before shaping so that wouldn't work. I'd see this even tougher with a D handle.

On my second attempt, I scribed lines on the ends and just aligned the template to the lines by eye. The glue takes a while to set, so you have plenty of time to adjust the template.

For the real one, I will scribe the lines based off how the blade sits in the handle block. This is the same as how you would mark the layout for grinding without a template. Once the lines are there, just glue the template in between the lines.

For a D-handle, I think one could drill small holes in the template for alignment. All you would have to do is mark the center lines and place the template so that the lines are in the center of the holes. I have not tried it, but I am pretty sure it would work.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

A simple trick is to sand one flat along the handle blank. Glue the templates on aligned to that flat. From there it is just repetition of sanding flats.

 

[kdnolin]

I really like this idea and it seems really simple. How do you hake sure the plates on either end are aligned though? I could see if the block had 2 square sides you could use those for alignment but I typically drill a hole through the center of my block before shaping so that wouldn't work. I'd see this even tougher with a D handle.

I also drill my hole first (dowel method) but like this idea. So now I was thinking of drilling a hole in the template. I'll give it a try this week since I have 3 blades ready to handle.

 

[Natlek]

I also drill my hole first (dowel method) but like this idea. So now I was thinking of drilling a hole in the template. I'll give it a try this week since I have 3 blades ready to handle.

Draw a line in the center on steel templates, draw a line in the center of wood , align everything and glue steel templates .Then use line on wood to drill hole for tang .....something like this .

 

[scott kozub]

what a great and simple idea. Thanks for the alignment tips. Guess I'll be making some of these this weekend.

 

[Hubert S.]

what a great and simple idea. Thanks for the alignment tips. Guess I'll be making some of these this weekend.

Good luck and please, post your results. I think the trickiest part is making the templates accurately. My first attempt was with a printed template and then grinding to the lines by eye. The result was pretty decent, but not quite right. I have since made another set of templates where I skipped the printed templates. I first made rectangles and then ground off the corners using a 45 degree guide and a stop to push against. Those templates turned out much more consistent. The handles I made with them look right and feel right. They are not perfect, but I cannot spot the imperfections without measuring tools. It would be nice to make a set of hardened steel templates with a laser cutter in half millimeter size increments, that way you could make any size handle you want.

For practice with the jig, I made another handle from a 2x4 to use while grinding blades. I drilled a slightly undersized tang hole in the center first. I opened up the hole a little with a jig saw blade and with the soft wood, the tang went in securely with just a few hammer taps. It beats the slotted dowel/duct tape combination I was using as a grinding handle before. I think I'll make a couple more for different tang sizes.